Sunday, April 12, 2015

Don't Worry, I Won't Eat Your Baby 1995

We drove down to the Alabama Hills one afternoon with an actual goal, for a change. I’d recently “discovered” a tiny, secret valley tucked away on the northern shoulder of Cobblestone Mountain (my name for the colossal stone hill that hems in Movie Flat on its west side). That whole mass is just an immense heap of gigantic boulders weathered out of granite bedrock—a place unsuited for strolling…any forward progress being half upward and dearly gained. Mostly I’ve just poked around its edges, where a lot of the best rock climbing routes are, and only once scrambled to the summit (which proved to be a major undertaking). Several days ago, having climbed a technical route up a big granite pillar for the first time, I was surprised to be looking down into a completely hidden little amphitheater; it was so well-concealed, I’d somehow managed to miss discovering it despite all the other climbing and explorations thereabouts.
            Of course, I wanted a real visit and was happy to be going with my partner, Diane, to see this brand-new place. So we parked in one of those natural enclosures out at the north end and in minutes were scrambling up a deep chimney choked with big blocks. After a few tricky maneuvers getting over or around chockstones the narrow passage opened, abruptly, into space—an amphitheater strewn with rounded boulders that had fallen, rolled, and were piled like giant marbles in the little flat. It was a place that felt “close,” a place that echoed like an empty room, inviting visitors to speak in hushed tones. Bisecting the flat was a dry brook-bed that flows only after cloudbursts. Following its advice, we walked on its coarse sand and wound our way under, over, or around the boulders in deep shade punctuated by shafts of afternoon sunlight—all that the tall cliffy walls let in. Had I been by myself I would hardly have noticed the soft lighting peculiar to that season and hour or the sweet desert silence.
            That stillness was abruptly spoiled by the sound of some jeep or truck revving its engine. We weren’t actually too far from a road but it was strange to hear the sound so clearly and my first thought was that it was some deal where distant sounds are reflected off the rocks in such a way that they’re amplified. (I’ve experienced such things before around big cliff faces, which can act like parabolic reflectors.)
            Right then, clambering over the top of a car-sized rock, I discovered the source of that engine-noise before there was time to wonder about it further. A movement caught my attention and, turning my head, I locked eyes with a bobcat. Only ten yards away, I knew it was a “she,” and she was a mother, when one tiny brown thing dove under a boulder just as another buried itself beneath a leafless shrub. There could have been others, already hidden. As Diane stepped up behind me the mother was watching us like a hawk, her short tail twitching angrily, and the intense look in those fiery eyes said plainly enough that if there were just me, and I was no more than twice her size, I’d be dead.  She would kill me if necessary. My skin crawled as if I were facing down a rattlesnake but instinctively knew that Diane and I wouldn’t be attacked or even threatened—this was a standoff. Though rigid with attention, I relaxed to enjoy our meeting. When you meet the wild ones like this, something special happens.
            I hadn’t seen a bobcat in many years; never this well, and never in a situation where I had so much as time to realize what I was seeing before the encounter was over. As it was, there was time in abundance to take in that deadly glare, which contained the distilled essence of every mother’s imperative to protect her young. That lean brown body, exquisitely camouflaged against stone and sand, was motionless aside from the twitching, stumpy tail but her presence and intent captured all my senses and I stood motionless (in lieu of having no tail of my own to wag). Diane’s hand was on my shoulder and I knew she was the same. Then the wild cat grudgingly slid away into a crevice where I couldn’t see her eyes on me. But I could still feel them, oh yes. Don’t worry, mom—I won’t eat your babies!
            Out of the corner of my eye, I’d seen where one kitten had scrambled under a bush. My partner, a mother herself, didn’t want me terrifying the children and causing further stress but I had to see this…just once! I scrambled down into the fine gravel of the little creek bed, and soon spotted an inert clump of beige fuzz blended between twigs and sand, a thing human eyes would never perceive without prior warning. I approached warily and ever-so-slowly knelt down until I could’ve reached out and stroked the silky sand-colored fur—a thing I was sorely tempted to do. Like a fawn in hiding, the wildling remained a living statue, eyes fixed on some distant point and filled with a helpless terror that amounted to its hunger to continue being alive. I saw the gray-blue eyes that had only opened to the great world days before; they were the eyes of any kitten, not their true color yet. They’d be just as cute and innocent  were it not for the sheer ferocity that was in them: an ineffable thing that no tabby possesses. I wanted so badly to touch—to hold it—but was afraid. Of a cute little kitten! And, for good reason: that one-pound infant, on perhaps its first foray into the lighted land, would’ve done serious damage had I tried to cuddle. This I knew for certain when I finally got too close, spreading the shrub’s branches aside for a better look, and the kitten abruptly wheeled, suddenly twice as large, pumped full of adrenaline, and "spit" at me—Phttt!! I backed off, humbled and exalted both, laughing out loud. (Out of nervousness, mostly, but it was funny in some way.)
            I looked up at Diane, grinning like a fool, while she cast me a reproving look, and beyond her I saw the other mom who’d circled 180° and was peering at us from under an overhanging rock, forty feet away, with that same impotent but defiant glower. My skin crawled anew. I was pumped up as well, in my own way. Diane, watching us both, whispered, “C’mon! Leave it alone!” The kitten had gone back to being a pale clay figurine. Its fur glistened faintly, ears a miniature of its mother’s—black stripe, white stripe, black tip—and those tips were long black tufts. A perfect, complete little creature-of-the-desert. Grudgingly, I backed off. The girl and I walked off in respectful silence until it seemed, when far enough away, that we could talk out loud again. Still outside myself, full of raw joy—like a child on Christmas morning—my first words were, “That’s one of the best nature-things I’ve seen in my entire life!”



©2015  Tim Forsell                                                                                       12 Jun 1995, 20 Apr 2015
           



Sunday, February 8, 2015

Piute Log...The Amazing Carl 1990

23 Sep (Sun)     Equinox! First day of autumn! Cloudy when I got up but it cleared off except over the park. Cold & frosty. ◦◦◦◦◦ We had pancakes and finished the chicken stew. It was lookin’ fairly fair in the weather department so decided to carry an axe to Kennedy Canyon and get that tree across the trail (been there all summer). Jan rode Redtop, me on Pal. ◦◦◦◦◦ We’d just gone through the gate when we ran into the most remarkable backpacker I’ve ever met—which is saying something. A young guy, early 20s, dark-complected; looked like he had some Indian in him but couldn’t tell if Asian or American. He seemed entirely at ease, like someone who really knew his way around the mountains. T-shirt under plaid button-up and raggedy beige slacks. Strap-on, open-toed sandals; no socks. He had a small, beat-up daypack with some stuff in it but the thing wasn’t even half full; whatever it was looked about the size of a football. ◦◦◦◦◦ As we rode up, without greetings, he commented on the horses and asked where we were going (beating me to my usual ice-breaker). Without asking if I wanted to see his permit or waiting for me to, he took off his pack, got out a slender wallet and pulled it out. I inquired where he was coming from. “Crabtree.” (It’s a trailhead I’ve never even heard of, over near Pinecrest off Highway 108. He had to tell me.) I asked where his camp was, assuming he was just out on a day-hike. The kid wasn’t the talkative sort and it was plain he didn’t want to be drilled. In fewest possible words he indicated this was no day-hike and his destination was Twin Lakes. I said, “You mean, that’s all you’re carrying!?” ◦◦◦◦◦ “Uh-huh.” He had a very calm demeanor, clear dark eyes with that far-seeing gaze; sensitive mouth with thin lips. Very handsome. This young feller had come well over 30 miles, maybe more, and had another 20+ to go, over three passes, and was heading into changing weather that could do anything. He admitted to having a bivvy sack [bivouac sack—a water-proof sleeping bag cover] to sleep in and said he’d been warm at night. (Even if it was a light-weight one, carefully folded, it would’ve accounted for at least half the bulk of what was in that tiny pack.) No pad. Obviously no coat or pile pants, anything warm; he’d probably just wrap the sack around himself if it rained or got cold. I doubt he had any cooking gear and hardly any food…perhaps he was fasting. Or foraging. ◦◦◦◦◦ He tried to make light of the whole thing and when I started to say, “You know, I’ve never seen anyone traveling so light…” he cut me off, saying that he knew what I meant, but didn’t offer further explanation. In short order this stranger had displayed self-assurance, dignity, and humility though little in the way of humor. To honor him, I stopped probing—he plainly wasn’t keen to answer questions—and turned him loose with good luck wishes. I’ve only rarely had an encounter with anyone who was so…unavailable. And he’d been in complete command during our interaction; it was a bit unsettling. Jan and I were floored; as soon as we got out of earshot she asked, “Is that guy for real?!” ◦◦◦◦◦ I was intensely curious all day and kept thinking about little things I’d seen in him, things he hadn’t said. We talked about him a bunch. The notion of someone taking a long backcountry trip with no sleeping bag or shelter during this, a risky time to be traveling, weather-wise. Serious fortitude. And hiking in sandals! That fact alone would make our encounter noteworthy. ◦◦◦◦◦ Rode up to Long Lakes where we had another surprise: some pack of horse-riding swine had made camp on the shore of Upper Long. They’d tied their stock to trees in the little shore-line meadows, leaving them torn & frayed. Left behind a sack of trash, partly buried right by the trail (!?!?!) and committed other transgressions. The ranger saw red…I stomped all around, growling, and found new travesties at every turn. Of course, lots of cigarette butts scattered around. Such degeneracy: why would they pack all that stuff in on horseback, load the trash in a sack and then, instead of putting that sack in an empty pannier, take the time & effort to dig a shallow grave right by the trail and shovel a little dirt on top? (It was only half-buried to begin with and of course, critters had already scattered stuff.) I pray that some day I will catch these sorts of losers before they leave the scene of their crimes. ◦◦◦◦◦ Met two backpackers at the PCT [Pacific Crest Trail] junction with map & compass out. They were obviously glad to see us; coming from Leavitt Meadows, heading for Leavitt Lake, they’d gone off the edge of their only topo and had been wandering around, lost and confused. Even with the aid of compass and (I believe) clear signing, they couldn’t tell north from south. (Had the map all turned around when I first started trying to show them where they were.) ◦◦◦◦◦ This encounter, following on the heels of mystery-man, and right after witnessing—once again—just how much damage a few idiots can do, was quite a graphic commentary on the range of capability and consciousness you find in our backcountry travelers. The first was a modern-day John Muir…the latter, “innocents abroad.” And I don’t know what to call those others except more bad names. (Okay, done venting; time to just let that one go….) ◦◦◦◦◦ Rode through Walker Meadows and cut over to the PCT. Skies darkening. Then we found a buck’s remains…right by the trail. Good lord. This was proving to be quite a day of surprises. Hunters had hung it from a limb that was directly over the trail (big pool of coagulated blood right in the tread) and dressed it out, leaving skin and guts and severed limbs scattered about. And—for bad measure—a tin can, an old coffeepot, and a beat-up pan. (People of this ilk always leave something behind.) ◦◦◦◦◦ Up into Kennedy Canyon, to the job-site. Really threatening now so we got right to it: 12” lodgepole across the trail at chest height. Limbing and one cut, with Jan helping drag slash, took 45 minutes. Couldn’t have moved the log without Jan’s strong back; plus she cut out two saplings pinned underneath it (her first axe work). ◦◦◦◦◦ Riding down, noticed an old sheepherder carving right beside the trail. I’ve seen it many times but never checked it out. Could just make out that it’d been carved in 1912, indicating that this stretch of trail—a 1970s contract job from when there was all this money to stitch the PCT together—probably followed an old route across the crest. ◦◦◦◦◦ Incredible purple sky with cobalt-blue hills to the east, whitened by intense hail in only minutes. Missed us entirely. Lightning & thunder, even. Home at 6:00, just in time—it started raining, hard, as we finished unsaddling. ◦◦◦◦◦ Mystery Man had stopped by after we saw him—there was a note on the table: “Nice place you have here, ranger. I see you like Hesse. [There were copies of Rosshalde and Steppenwolf in my bookcase.] Have you read Narcissus and Goldmund? I think it’s one of his best. See you again sometime. Carl.” ◦◦◦◦◦ When Jan comes to visit, I make “the big bed” up in the loft—two old mattresses side-by-side, covered with a tarp. What our strange visitor didn’t know was that upstairs, out of sight under my pillow, was the copy of Narcissus that I just happened to be re-reading. (Carl may have climbed the ladder and peeked into the dimly lit space but I seriously doubt he rooted around and looked under my pillow….)

 [Left in the morning—Jan had to go—but headed right back into Piute the next day.]

25 Sep (Tue)     Didn’t go to the office again; no thanks. So just went to the store for more food and when I pulled into the parking lot, there’s Mystery Man, hitching a ride out of town! ◦◦◦◦◦ He was talking to a fellow traveller on a bike when I walked over and offered him a ride. (The guy on the bike was coming from the north coast, headed for Virginia!) They continued chatting while I went in to buy some vegetables. ◦◦◦◦◦ Ended up taking Carl all the way to Sonora Pass, just so we could keep talking, but also to see that stretch for the first time this year. Lots of questions answered…he was much more talkative this time. ◦◦◦◦◦ He looks like a young J. Krishnamurti, with that sort of dignity and charisma. He’s 27 but looks younger. From So-Cal originally; lives in Oakland. Father a vet in Orange County. He’s a carpenter who dislikes working for contractors so mostly works solo doing renovations and interior work. He’s lived with “an older woman” for many years. She has severe back problems; is an invalid and completely dependent on him. Carl, telling me all this in frank terms, made it sound as if he was basically stuck with this woman and felt he couldn’t just abandon her. (It sounded like he still cared for/about her though maybe not so much as he had.) This coming from a guy who is obviously free-spirited, independent, and a rebel to the core. Very incongruous. ◦◦◦◦◦ Told him I was glad he’d felt comfortable going in the cabin and poking around, knowing I’d be okay with that. I mentioned the note. (Many people have left me notes like that, assuming it was normal to enter a ranger station. Carl seemed more like one who would generally err on the side of respecting privacy so it meant something that he’d chosen to come inside.) The Hesse reference, kind of off-the-wall, had seemed mostly his way of communicating that we had things in common and thought alike. “Yeah, I’ve read a lot of Hesse. Almost every book of his in print.” And told him that, up in the loft, under my pillow, was the copy of Narcissus and Goldmund I was just then reading. He smiled, gazing off. ◦◦◦◦◦ My new friend explained that he doesn’t always travel so lightly; often goes on trips with his dad and they carry sleeping bags, tent, food, the works. He squeaked by this time; went out via Buckeye Canyon instead of Twin Lakes (saving a day’s travel and two passes), but did get stormed on pretty good that night. For sleeping, what he does is stuff his bivouac sack full of leaves or pine needles and burrows on in. (That’s a new one; but I wondered about all those creepy-crawlies that are in there, too.) Said he didn’t want to tell me this the other day because “you were sitting tall on a big horse and looked pretty official and I thought you maybe wouldn’t like me scraping up the forest floor.” (He rehabs afterwards….) Oh, and this: he told me that his bike was stashed in the bushes near his trailhead. He’d ridden from Oakland somehow and was going to pedal home after hitching back to the bike. If somebody had given him a ride, at least out of the city, he didn’t mention it. Wow. I was tempted to take him the rest of the way but not in the green rig [Forest Service truck]. (We aren’t even allowed to pick up hitch-hikers, ahem.) ◦◦◦◦◦ Well, we had us a good talk. Finally saw his charming smile. I didn’t get around to asking if he’d brought any food or was foraging. Lots of common ground, idealistically, which we hardly got into as it was obvious to us both that we’re outsiders. Like me, he’s not a “joiner.” Surprised to be told that Carl likes living in a big city, explaining how he felt like he could always be totally anonymous, practically invisible, which was appealing. He likes taking long walks with a little daypack for the added challenge and soul-recharge value—the same reason I climb without ropes or gear. It was a memorable meeting. We’ll probably cross paths again and perhaps I won’t like him so much if we were to get better acquainted—he’s hard and fiery, a real oddball—but I felt really drawn to him and, as always, it was pure pleasure to run into one of the brotherhood.

I never saw Carl again and have always felt it as a genuine loss—in the following years, every season, I always expected him to just show up at the cabin one day. Still feel amazement; it’s not often that you meet someone truly remarkable. There’s so many things we would’ve enjoyed talking about. Almost 25 years later I still wonder who he became, where he might be now.


     ©2014 Tim Forsell                                                                                                                                    9 Dec 2014   

Tuesday, December 16, 2014

Piute Log...Fairly Well Stomped 1995



23 Aug (Wed)     …when I got back to the cabin, Greta and Larry Raley [our District Recreation Officer; Margaret’s boss] had arrived. Up for one night. They’d packed in food and gear for the upcoming dog & pony show [“administrative” trip] and were putting up the back fence. I literally jumped in to help stretch the section crossing the river and waded around with mosquitoes feasting. On yours truly. We finished the job at dusk and I finally got some supper at about 9:30. Another long day.

24 Aug (Thu)     A momentous day…almost got crushed. ◦◦◦◦◦ Greta and Larry wanted to get an early start; wouldn’t wait for me to make pancakes. (They ate instant oatmeal with powdered milk instead. Oh, well.) ◦◦◦◦◦ The horses waltzed right in so we jailed  ringleaders and caught the drones. I helped a bit while my two supervisors saddled & loaded but it was their gig and I didn’t know whose tack [saddle gear] belonged to who so mostly stood back and carted things over for them. ◦◦◦◦◦ They were nearly finished and ready to roll when I noticed that one saddlehorse’s breast-collar [broad leather strap running across a horse’s chest that prevents the saddle from slipping backwards  when going up steep grades] was dangling—it hadn’t been clipped in yet. Just helping out, I went to snap its buckle in place but couldn’t get at it ‘cuz the horse was standing right up against that end-post. The mare had been tied on “this” side but with too much slack in her rope and had swung around to stand—facing me—as if tied on the far side, with chest right up against the post. Tried to push her off it but she wouldn’t budge. Grabbed her halter and pushed. No-go. So I stepped under the rope so I could reach back, poke her flank, and get her to swing back around. No result—she just ignored me. Poked harder—same result. ◦◦◦◦◦ This horse was a big mustang mare on loan from Carson [Ranger District]. Greta’d told me she was a “good girl.” (I’d never seen her before.) ◦◦◦◦◦ What happened next was my fault, entirely—the result of greenhorn-style incompetence. All our horses & mules are gentle (never kick or bite) and you can walk behind ‘em or step under their necks…push ‘em around—things you’re expressly taught never to do with unfamiliar livestock. I made a big mistake, treating this strange (and formerly wild) animal like she was “one of ours.” ◦◦◦◦◦ Suddenly, she jerked back and I was pinned by the lead-rope against the rail. When the rope went tight she freaked and started tossing her head around—amazing pressure on my back from the wire-taut rope. She wanted to get away from this rude stranger and when she couldn’t, reared. When the rope went slack I was liberated but the only place to go was around the hitchrail toward her. I stumbled forward as she reared higher, her flailing hooves right in my face, and—just like the proverbially limp rag doll—felt myself flung down hard into the dirt and rocks. I rolled away as she came back down, in that curious state-of-mind where time slows and you have a spell to ponder what’s happening even though under normal conditions one could never have so many coherent, distinct thoughts in 1.38 seconds. I recall thinking/feeling/knowing, Oh, Tim, you blew it! Stupid, stupid! You might get hurt BAD this timeprobably willcould end up with broken bones….  I impacted hard on my forearms and heard myself go rr-Ummph! ◦◦◦◦◦ Greta and Larry were right there—saw it all—and rushed over. The mare stood quietly, as if nothing had gone down. I’d rolled over and was laying on my back, dust-coated, just “coming to” and waiting for pain to kick in and tell me where I was damaged. Dirt in my mouth…what happened? I hadn’t really “felt” anything. After a few more long seconds, they helped me stand up. I was still outside myself, with bosses hovering anxiously. I was shook up and had to stand there a minute, bent over, breathing and coming back into my normal frame as the adrenaline dissipated. Didn’t know exactly what’d happened. Forearms abraded; blood mixed with dirt and manure particles. On my right elbow was a raw crescent an inch long where her steel shoe had made contact and slammed me to the deck. (The skin wasn’t even torn—just smashed.) ◦◦◦◦◦ Greta and Larry finished up—a bit shaken themselves, having witnessed this close call—and were soon gone.  Greta’s parting words were, “Have a better day!” I said, “It’s okay…learned a good lesson and I’m not hurt. Uh…hope I’m not hurt.” ◦◦◦◦◦ Actually, I was. The elbow swelled. I cleaned myself up and washed dishes; felt kinda ill. Had to lay down for awhile, feeling the lingering adrenaline, which I know from experience leaves you utterly drained, like after a long cry. Decided to stay home—elbow painful, plus I’d tweaked my neck a bit; ached all over. ◦◦◦◦◦ With extreme irony, just a while later, three people on horseback showed up. They were staying at Point Camp and went out for a day-ride but one woman, while crossing a little brook, had broken (or badly torn) her ankle when their packhorse leapt across, crashing into her horse and crunching her foot in the stirrup. (Some horses will do this—more often, mules—‘cuz they don’t like to get their tootsies wet.) These folks were unfamiliar with the country and felt it was too late to go back, pack up, and get out before dark. So they were gonna go back to camp and head out in the morning, early. I encouraged them to leave today but they thought not and turned down my offers of assistance. (The other woman was a nurse.) Didn’t tell them what’d recently befallen me; I doubt they would’ve have been much interested just then.



©2014 Tim Forsell                                                                                                                   6 Jun 2014

Monday, December 8, 2014

Piute Log....Dirt in My Ears 1996

1 Jul (Mon)      The horses walked into the yard yesterday eve for the first time this season so I locked them up to speed today’s departure. Got on the trail at 10:30 and met an interesting pair just over a mile from the cabin. They were well off the trail, dressed in drab colors, so it was lucky I even saw them. Had a delightful talk; they were happy and at ease, enjoying the day. Frank, mid 40s, was a geologist living in Ruth, of all places. [An obscure not-even-a-town in central Nevada, outside the notorious “Area 51” (famous among UFO enthusiasts)] His partner spoke with a strange accent; Australian, but with hard “r”s. I figured he’d been living in the states for many years but, when I asked, turns out to be the other way ‘round. He’s a So-Cal boy (like me…). Old surfer, raised in Huntington Beach. He and Frank had gone to highschool there together. Now this fella lives in Australia and imports sunglasses for the tourist trade; has a wife and kids there. I commented on how we never would’ve imagined how things would work out: here’s three urban-spawned southern Californians…one becomes a geologist in a lonely part of Nevada, one sells cheap sunglasses on the other side of the planet (that’s something they don’t teach in college!) and one is a ranger hiding out in the mountains. Ah, how the wheel doth turn! Where it stops, nobody knows….  
….And one other thing: I want to start recording those less-than-romantic aspects of my profession, the things that would discourage just any old Thomas, Richard, or Harold from wanting to steal my job. This has been a neglected element in this log. ◦◦◦◦◦ FOR INSTANCE: After getting back to the cabin on the 29th, I’d just walked over 12 miles and done a bunch of trailwork. My back & arms & shoulders were knotted up from shoveling dirt and hurling rock off the trail. I was soaked with sweat. My skin was coated with this ungodly sleaze that was a combination of sunscreen, bug juice, sweat, dust, dead skin cells, and crushed mosquito residue. The mirror revealed that I had mosquito remains on my face and shoulders and even shmeered on my hat. I’d imagine some folks would not have enjoyed my complex aroma just then. Feet hurt and my crotch was chafed from too much sweat and friction, with pieces of bark and pine needles lodged in my skivvies and ass crack. Dirt in my ears and under my nails and between my toes. This “stickiness” finally comes to my attention once I’ve come into the cabin and gotten (mostly) out of the bugs and out of my filthy clothes. It’s fairly disgusting and a good reason to go dunk my soiled self in the river. So that’s what I did.


©2014 Tim Forsell                                                                                                                                                                                                 8 Dec 2014