Sunday, October 25, 2020

The Demeaning of Life Chapter 24

 

Chapter 24. LIFE In Review


What I wish to make clear…is, in short, that from all we have learnt about the structure of living matter, we must be prepared to find it working in a manner that cannot be reduced to the ordinary laws of physics. And that not on the ground that there is any ‘new force’ or what not, directing the behaviour of the single atoms within a living organism, but because the construction is different from anything we have yet tested in the physical laboratory.

 

          Erwin Schrödinger (1943)

                                                                  

BIOCHEMIST JOHN KENDREW, in his book The Thread of Life: “Personally I do not think there is…any difference in essence between the living and the nonliving, and I think most molecular biologists would share this view. Kendrew’s glib pronouncement has a breezy tone intended to impress upon his readers the committed materialist’s creed: It’s all chemistry, folks! Life consists entirely of the interaction of lifeless atoms—nothing more. But Kendrew is on shaky ground when he claims that a majority of scientifically minded people share his view. He’s welcome to his opinions. But this chapter offers another perspective—one that should leave little doubt about the vast difference between living and the nonliving matter. And that LIFE’s capacities somehow extend beyond the realm of pure chemistry and physics.

One indicator of LIFE’s problematical status is how resistant it is to unambiguous description. In fact, scientists have yet to agree on a simple, clear-cut definition. Science writer Carl Zimmer: “When Portland State University biologist Radu Popa was working on a book about defining life, he decided to count up all the definitions that scientists have published in books and scientific journals. Popa gave up counting after about 300 definitions.” A quick review of that list shows chemists, physicists, and biologists stamping their proposals with a point of view characteristic of their respective fields. 

To get a sense of why defining “life” might present challenges, consider some representative offerings. A typical example: “Living organisms are characterized by five properties: they evolve, they recognize themselves, they develop, and they feel. The official NASA version: “Life is a self-sustained chemical system capable of undergoing Darwinian evolution.” Life as a bearer of information: “a material system that can acquire, store, process, and use information to organize its activities.” The biochemist’s take: “a potentially self-perpetuating open system of linked organic reactions, catalyzed stepwise and almost isothermally by complex and specific organic catalysts which are themselves produced by the system.” Two, more technical-sounding examples: “a self-sustaining kinetically stable dynamic reaction network derived from the replication reaction” and “autocatalytic energy-processing systems stabilized far from equilibrium.” Another source lists a number of characteristics and requirements: reproduction, metabolism, nutrition, complexity, organization, growth and development, hardware/software entanglement, information content, and the paradoxical conjunction of permanence and change. (One candidate property for such lists, notably absent: “a susceptibility to death.”) 

            Several attributes of living organisms prove even harder to pin down. Among them are autonomyself-determinationpowers of self-repair and regenerationinterdependenceresilience and homeostasis. Add to these the capacity to learncognitiondevelopment and cooperation—features whose dynamic interplay contributes to evolutionary adaptation. Finally, there’s that enigmatic, core quality—or  core “condition”—shared by all living beings: call it aliveness.      

Some of these features are quantifiable, measureable, or in some fashion open to empirical analysis. Others, like those in that second set of more slippery items, are less easily treated. For instance, what about that continually recurring theme, seen throughout the natural world, of individual autonomy? While there are so many close associations between organisms, individuals—whether microbial, multi-cellular or even individual eukaryotic cells—tend to maintain some degree of independence in their interactions. In labs, human tissue cells are reared in nutritional broths where they assume amoeboid form. Here’s an observable phenomenon that appears to offer a rich trove of opportunities for scientific study: these cells—adrift and abandoned—continue to divide and multiply while searching for and, given the opportunity, reuniting with other marooned cells in a hearty attempt to resume their collective roles. Cells acting as if they were just going about their normal affairs and making due with what’s available. But the implications of these independent cells’ actions and instincts continue to be viewed exclusively in mechanistic terms. In times past, this odd phenomenon would instantly be recognized as a clear-cut manifestation of the universal life-force. It would elicit sage nods of reverent admiration from witnesses gazing down on the Petri dishes.

Here lies the source of the problem that has caused so much confusion and resistance. Our difficulty in pinning down the essence of living matter’s unique vitality is rooted in this: LIFE possesses distinctive qualities, tendencies, and predispositions which, solely because of their intangible nature and lack of measurability, have never achieved formal scientific recognition. The lack of formal recognition has created an intellectual barrier—an artificial impediment to crediting the actuality of known LIFE-attributes. The more remarkable manifestations of these problematic features tend to be seen as mere curiosities. (For instance, startling demonstrations of intelligence in lower animals—even plants, which show forms of intelligence that bypass consciousness of self and the need for a centralized brain). Moreover, these distinguishing life-features are precisely what gives the phenomenon in its exclusive status—and are the cause of our seeming inability to fully embrace LIFE’s end-directed agency.

            One such feature of LIFE that has come to impress me almost as much as its diversity and complexity is its omnipresence. Another is LIFE‘s unshakable tenacity. 

We’ll never know how long it took living matter, after it got started, to spread across the entire globe. But every environmental setting one can imagine had probably been colonized tens of millions of years ago. Note the use of the word “setting.” Location does not an ecosystem make. LIFE alters environments in ways that gradually make them better suited to the needs of their inhabitants. Through time, growing assemblages of organisms collectively modified their surroundings, creating new habitats. Novel ecological niches opened for business. Distinct ecosystems were fashioned, forever to be in a state of flux. Much later, when humans appeared and our activities began to alter existing habitats and create new niches, these too were quickly occupied. Even our dwelling places become ecosystems—home to a surprising array of organisms, the bulk of which go unnoticed.

Living matter is found everywhere, in any environment that’s not too hot or too cold to halt key physiological processes and any environment with at least some available water. These appear to be LIFE’s only limiting factors. Thus we find both plants and animals surviving in the hottest of deserts, where summer ground temperatures can almost boil water. Certain archaeans produce sulfuric acid as waste and subsist in concentrations as acidic as car battery fluid. Algae grow in concentrated salty brine held in channels within polar sea ice at below-freezing temperatures. The photosynthetic algae, which take advantage of whatever sunlight penetrates the ice floes, are food to larval polychaete worms, copepods, and crustaceans. Even more astonishing, a minute species of bacteria-eating nematode worm was found 3.5 kilometers below Earth’s surface living within flooded pore spaces in fractured rock in a South African gold mine at temperatures of almost 50°C (nearly 120°F).  

Certain deep-water microbes not only survive but flourish at fantastic pressures and in water well above boiling point. These single-celled organisms are the foundation for entire biological webs that thrive around deep-sea thermal vents called black smokers, where mineral-laden water jets from the seafloor thousands of meters beneath the surface. In a similar vein, there’s an as-yet poorly understood world of mostly anaerobic varieties of bacteria and archaea living within pores between mineral grains inside crustal rock, deep beneath Earth’s surface (and under seafloors as well). Cornell astrophysicist Thomas Gold put it succinctly: “Microbial life exists in all the locations where microbes can survive.” Gold, a daring thinker who made scientific contributions to many fields, speculated in a 1992 paper that the subterranean fauna’s biomass may equal what lives above ground. By one recent estimate based on a decade long world-wide inventory, the subterranean biomass may amount to half of what exists on Earth. On a slightly different note: as further proof of the powers of organic evolution, recent human activity has led to our planet being graced with new bacterial forms capable of metabolizing such unlikely substances as concrete and byproducts of nylon production. Another newcomer subsists in the cooling tanks housing spent radioactive fuel rods. (Hopefully, the proper authorities are keeping a close eye on these developments.)

Pervasive ecological degradation has led to large numbers of people becoming aware of the delicate balance being precariously maintained in so many once-healthy environments. As a result, viewing LIFE as a tenacious and virtually unstoppable “force of nature” is not presently being emphasized so much as the fragility of vulnerable ecosystems. But, for me, an acute awareness of LIFE’s resilience and tenacity took on real meaning thanks to one particularly vivid lesson. 

 

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Wherever I’ve lived, shelves and windowsills end up as depositories for what I call “nature trinkets.” Lying atop my bookcase at this particular time were a typical assortment of pebbles, crystals, bones, seed pods, feathers, and pieces of weathered wood. One day, on a walk with friends, we were discussing the native peoples who had formerly lived in the region. I pointed out a plant, a type of wild lily, telling my companions that its starchy bulbs had once been an important food source. Using a flat rock I dug one up to demonstrate how difficult and time-consuming it would be to collect the bulbs in quantity. The tuber looked like a marble-sized onion, with the same burnished copper-colored skin…a “shiny object,” which also had the ineffable appeal of a dainty miniature. So I pocketed the little onion look-alike. And onto the top of my bookcase it went. 

In time the little brown marble shrank somewhat and grew dusty. In tidying it up, the outer layer of its papery skin flaked off, revealing a fresh-looking but slightly diminished bulb. Months later, I repeated this gesture out of respect. And, again, there was a glossy-skinned micro-onion inside, still firm and hale. Months went by. I decided to move to a new place and, while boxing all my delicate nature trinkets, was stunned to find a green and glistening shoot protruding from the shriveled little bulb’s tip. Something had triggered this do-or-die effort and it had sprouted—after resting on top of my bookcase for two…and a half…years. I was moved close to tears, having been granted a new appreciation for just how resolute and fiercely tenacious living things can be. Though it may sound trivial in the telling, for me this was a genuinely life-changing revelation, a direct link to my decision to write this book. 

 

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Collectively, LIFE possesses an enduring vigor, having survived at least six major mass-extinction events (the latest of which, human-caused, is currently in full swing) along with perhaps nine other garden-variety calamities since the Cambrian era. The result of these past upheavals was, in each instance, a dynamic resurgence marked by considerable evolutionary diversification among the survivors thanks to wide-open, uninhabited territories with niches just waiting to be filled. Both terrestrial and aquatic organisms rebounded after each disaster, with forms both old and new rising to the new day. Take the mass extinction known as the end-Cretaceous event, which occurred around 66 Ma: caused by a sizeable asteroid strike and exacerbated by other factors, the end-Cretaceous event resulted in the extermination of all large animals and perhaps two-thirds of all species. Earth’s entire non-avian dinosaur fauna’s swift disappearance following the catastrophic episode set in motion the rise of mammals (which, in due course, led to the appearance of mankind). Seen from this big-picture perspective, mass extinctions take on new significance—global cataclysm as opportunity for rebirth and renewal. Extinctions impart an evolutionary blank slate, a cleansed and refreshed world presenting endless opportunities.

Perhaps the single most important clue in attempting to understand the nature of LIFE is how long it took to become established on Earth. By all appearances, it sprang up on our planet with surprising ease. If so, this one fact may have more to say about LIFE than all the (so far) fruitless conjecture about how LIFEarose in the first place. The importance of this key point makes it worth looking into in some detail.

Geomorphologists have settled on a figure 4.57 billion years for Earth’s age, defined as the point at which its formation was mostly complete—around one hundred million years after the collapse of the giant molecular cloud that led to the creation of our solar system. (For perspective, Jupiter took shape much earlier—possibly within the first ten million years.) For its first five-hundred million years, our young planet was incessantly bombarded by debris left over from planetary formation while simultaneously being wracked by widespread volcanic eruptions. Until quite recently, this so-called Hadean Era was presumed too inhospitable for life to emerge. Almost all early surface material has subsequently been obliterated so there’s very little remaining evidence from that time to reveal what conditions were like and even fewer hints as to when life might have first appeared. 

No surface rock has been preserved from the first 500+ Ma of our planet’s history. Since the rock record at present reaches no further, filling in the story of Earth’s early history is made possible only through analyzing remarkably stable mineral fragments—minute but extremely durable crystals of zircon (ZrSiO). These microscopic silicate crystals, almost as hard as diamond but tougher, originally formed in even more ancient rock but are now preserved in somewhat younger sedimentary deposits derived from the older material. The oldest surviving zircons are found in Western Australia, reliably dated at 4.4 billion years.

A search for the earliest evidence of life has been ongoing for several decades, thanks to advances in radiometric dating technologies. Peer-reviewed journal reports continually push back the date. And every year or so one of these reports is called into question, refuted, or gains further support in a model demonstration of the stepwise advancement of scientific knowledge.

The earliest indirect evidence of life—what is known as a “biosignature”—came in 2015 when University of California researchers identified 4.1 billion year old graphite inclusions within a 3.8 billion year old zircon from the Jack Hills of Western Australia. This minute zircon, smaller than the period at the end of this sentence, contained graphite inclusions with a high ratio of ¹²C relative to ¹³C (a higher fraction of carbon’s lighter isotope being a characteristic feature of biological carbon assimilation through photosynthetic activity). The earliest undisputed evidence of life, reported in 2017, comes from microfossils found in 3.5 billion year old Australian Apex chert derived from hydrothermal vent deposits. Even more tantalizing: published results from another study released around the same time present evidence of fossilized microorganisms in rock at least 3.8 (but possibly as much as 4.3) billion year old—also putative hydrothermal vent deposits from a remote area in northern Quebec. Like the Apex chert, these microscopic fossils consist of “structures [that] occur as micrometre-scale haematite tubes and filaments with morphologies and mineral assemblages similar to those of filamentous microbes from modern hydrothermal vent precipitates.” Time will tell if any of these contenders for most-ancient life prove to be legitimate.

Further complicating matters: recent studies call into question the severity of the Late Heavy Bombardment, which peaked at roughly around 700 Ma after the solar system’s formation. A new theory holds that, while the episode may have taken place as conjectured, significant portions of Earth’s crust had not melted and large bodies of water likely remained on Earth’s surface (that is, never boiled away completely). This supposition is based on the fact that zircons form in several ways, all of them involving water-based chemistry. Zircons are ubiquitous in granites, which make up the bulk of continental crustal rock. The presence of these ancient crystals signifies there was water on the planet’s surface soon after Earth took shape and global conditions that were far milder than has long been assumed, a scenario known as the Cool Early Earth theory.

Where does all this leave us?

If life existed on Earth 4.1 billion years ago, its commencement predated the Late Heavy Bombardment by at least 200 million years. A recent study involving extensive computer modeling indicates that, under even the heaviest conceivable bombardment, Earth’s surface would never have melted entirely. The study concludes that heat tolerant microbes living in the vicinity of underwater hydrothermal vent systems could have survived the heaviest periods of bombardment. The 3.5 billion year old microfossils found in the Australian cherts lived in such environments. Analysis of their remnants, based on different carbon isotope ratios, shows the presence of five different taxa that employed several different metabolic strategies—indicative of a diverse symbiotic microbial community that had originated much earlier.

If the microfossils from northeastern Canada and reported in 2017 (reputedly at least 3.8 billion years old) prove to be closer to the upper age limit of 4.3 billion: they, too, would have arisen much earlier and had time to evolve from more primitive forbears. If this figure is substantiated, it means that life in fact arose almost as soon as physically possible—only two or three hundred million years after the Earth formed.                     

So, what might all this have to say about LIFE’s fundamental nature?

Asked to speculate on how long it took life to originate, Stanley Miller (of the Miller–Urey Experiments, Chapter Eighteen) once suggested that “a decade is probably too short, and so is a century. But ten- or a hundred thousand years seems okay, and if you can’t do it in a million years, you probably can’t do it at all.” How Miller arrived at these conclusions is interesting, given the complete lack of any solid evidence for the origin of life despite his many years of looking for an answer to the question

But now, shifting to new themes…it’s time to review where mankind and our views about LIFE fit into the bigger picture.

 

       ©2020 Tim Forsell                                                                                     25 Oct 2020

 

 




Friday, October 23, 2020

Piute Log...Dia de los Muertos 1991

 Thank goodness, I never killed a horse. There were any number of times when I could have but my luck held out. These excerpts recount a period when I had two dead horses on my hands that I was more or less “monitoring.” One was struck by lightning, the other suffered a freak accident. The day in question seemed to have a real death-theme. (Some of my descriptions might be a little too vivid for the squeamish.) To me, it was all part of the Big Circle. ◦◦◦◦◦ More words of explanation: around this time, the upper West Walker was still part of a long-time cattle grazing allotment, the permit held by a local ranch family. When the cows were around, the fenced “administrative” pasture at Piute would routinely get broken into—calves would sneak through the wires of my broken-down drift fences and their moms would crash through after them. Or backpackers would leave one of the gates open. My grass was greener, apparently. It was tedious coming home to find cows in my yard. ◦◦◦◦◦ Reference to Mike and Rene: this couple from Nevada were my “best customers.” I’d see them multiple times each season and we’d become friends, would share meals. Mike was a real character: former packer, nonstop talker, somewhat notorious for losing livestock in the backcountry. Losing four-legged animals in the mountains is terribly easy, always an embarrassment if someone else finds them before you do. (Mike’s lost horses were finally located a couple of weeks later, miles from where they’d gone missing.)◦◦◦◦◦ “Hobby-horsers” is a mildly derisive term for a particular breed of private stock users—generally wealthy people who are inexperienced and/or clueless. As a user-group, hobby-horsers and their animals do more damage and commit more eco-crimes than any other category of wilderness visitors, mostly out of sheer ignorance and because their equally inexperienced animals are completely freaked-out by being in unfamiliar situations. Whenever I met these folks I’d spend a lot of time trying to educate them. Over the years, I saw that the added effort really paid off. 

13 Aug (Mon)    ◦◦◦◦◦  Back from The Valley and back to work, heading into Piute. Greta packing the trail-crew into their camp at Fremont junction today and she asked for help. Well of course. Both of us had things to take care of first so it was almost noon before we were out at the barn saddling up and gathering tack. Crew already waiting at the pack station with their stuff so we hustled out there. Got everything of theirs loaded onto five animals and finally achieved escape velocity. ◦◦◦◦◦ Met some hobby-horsers just past Lane Lake—a couple recently moved to the area (Carson City) who plan to visit on a regular basis. Gave them a good talking to and marked the best stock camps on their map. They were appreciative and seemed “okay.” We’ll see. With hobby-horsers you never know—even if their gear isn’t all shiny & new and they’re not riding Appaloosas and seem to know what they’re doing. Sometimes they  surprise me, in a good way. ◦◦◦◦◦ To the camp way past quittin’ time, dropped loads and pressed on. In Lower Piute, ran up on a Scout leader who’d somehow gotten separated from his troop and was now in the lost-column. Nice fella, surprisingly unperturbed, just then setting up his tent—literally right by the trail. With incisive questioning I finally figured out where his group were located (he couldn’t recall the lake’s name) leaving him much relieved. ◦◦◦◦◦ Home at last, found two messages pinned to the cabin door: one from the guy camped with his family up at the head of the meadow. Something about a dead horse and a “please advise.” The other was a crumpled note from Mike Vidal, delivered by some backpacker apparently. He and Rene were at Tilden Lake [fifteen miles away, in Yosemite N.P.] and had lost two of their horses. Mike! I almost never find notes left on my door…only a few times, total. Today, two. And this: when I arrived there were twenty-plus cows grazing inside the back drift fence. Shooed ‘em out Rawhide-style—that is, at a gallop, hyah-hyah!ing at the top of my lungs. It worked. Red thought I’d lost my mind. Pies all over…looked like they’d been in for a couple of days. Sigh. Cow pies in the yard. Pies right in front of the porch step. (At least no pies on the porch.)                                      

→ 17 visitors            → 10½ miles    

 

14 Aug (Wed)     While I was over in Yosemite my meadow turned to gold. In just those few days of being gone, Upper Piute went from green-tinged-by-gold to gold-tinged-by-green. Always happens around this time of year: I gaze out from the porch, hardly able to remember when it was that pure, raging emerald-green green of EarlyJune. Definitely counts as one of those poignant moments that happen every season, just the one time. (There are others, others like it, all of them bittersweet.) ◦◦◦◦◦ After breakfast, saddled Red and went to visit the dead-horse people. They were just getting ready to eat themselves, smell of frying bacon drifting through the trees so good. Dieter took me over and introduced me to the victim, clearly visible under a blue tarp not fifty yards from camp. Here’s the story: They got packed in last week and brought the one horse to ride—their own, not the pack station’s. Seems they were breaking this ten-year-old mare to picket off a front leg. She didn’t like it at all and wigged out, lunging against the picket line until she somehow got flipped over, landing on her hip. They saw this from camp and actually heard something snap. The poor mare was in agony, grunting they said, and broke into a foamy sweat. She got stood up, leg dangling useless, quivering. When Dieter tried to lead her farther away from the river she almost fell so he put her down on the spot with a pistol he‘d brought along for just such an emergency. A “bad scene,” as we say in the business. I told them how things stood: Your property—your responsibility…if necessary, we can take care of it, will bill you, et cet. Totally winging it…I had no idea how such things get handled or even what would happen to the corpse. (Bart sez he had to buck up a mule with a chainsaw one time….the Park Service uses dynamite.) Dieter agreeable to the terms, such as they were. ◦◦◦◦◦ Then, to make this morning even more tremendous, one of their boys told me he’d found a dead deer in the river. “Right over there,” he pointed. When-it-rains-it-pours syndrome! Sure ‘nuf, just a bit down-meadow from their camp there’s a spotted fawn, couple of feet under, tangled in the branches of a submerged snag. Must’ve got swept away following mom across the river. But it sure was dead, with a veil of green algae and skin starting to peel off the face. This being my drinking water supply I just sighed, rolled sleeves up, took off boots, waded in and drug the thing out. Weighed maybe twenty pounds, wet. Holding the dripping remains by one front leg at arm’s length, I carried it up the hill aways to dump behind a log or boulder. Only got twenty yards before Bambi just slipped out of my hand. That is, its leg slid through a tube of sloughing skin and the carcass hit dirt with a soggy thud, leaving me (a moderately squeamish child of the suburbs) standing there breathing through my mouth with a handful of slimy fawn skin which I flung away in a hurry. Left the corpse where it fell. No way am I gonna pick that thing up again, unh-uh! When I looked down and saw my dominant hand covered with greenish-brown, slimy fawn-skin and got a fat whiff of that soul-piercing stench of death, I felt the proverbial lump rise in my throat. First time ever. An apt expression…now I know. This was for sure the closest I’ve come to hurling out of sheer revulsion, the way people are always doing in movies. ◦◦◦◦◦ Back in camp, Dieter’s wife handed me the high-line I’d loaned them, neatly coiled. Dieter said he’d bring a rope next time…told me he’d read the Backcountry Horseman’s booklet I gave him last week and got a lot out of it. This one’s coming along well. (Mmm…aside from leaving behind an equine stiff.) I’ll never know for sure whether they blew it or if it was just one of those things. ◦◦◦◦◦ Stopped at the cabin for dry pants and to try and wash that gawd-awful stench off my hand. Ivory soap didn’t begin to cut it so I went out in the yard and scrubbed my hands vigorously with dirt, then tried again with dish detergent. Not quite gone but oh well. ◦◦◦◦◦ Rode down-canyon and stopped by Doc’s camp to say hi. (He was up for a couple of days doing trailwork and invited me for tea tonight.) Down in Lower Piute, was surprised to see my lost Scoutmaster still in his emergency bivouac, talking with compatriots. Apparently several groups of scouts were out looking for him. It was ten a.m. and he still had his tent up! Would have expected the guy to be off at dawn—to maybe not prolong his troop’s worry at the very least. Go figger. But we had a nice chat anyway and I gave them some standard tips for Boyscout troops (Dig a latrine!) and explained the cow situation. ◦◦◦◦◦ Headed for Long Lakes where I cleaned up a brand-new camp built on a recently cleared, hardened site. The last occupants had done some major trenching around their big tents, excavations that unearthed a bunch of broken glass and bits of rusty cans from days of yore. They also left behind two large cardboard boxes (???!!). Filled in trenches, loaded my trash sack, and burned boxes in a nearby camp’s firepit. Now, I’ve offered “commentary” on such matters many times in this here log, clearly just venting steam. But answer me this: Why is it that NO ONE…EVER…fills in their tent trenches before they leave? I can’t recall seeing where someone has filled in their damn trenches—not once. Why is that? WHY?! (Phew. I feel better.) ◦◦◦◦◦ Rode the PCT to Walker Meadows. This was a death-themed day, it seems. Rode over to check on my (other) horse carcass and was stunned to find it gone! All that was left was a brown patch in the still-green meadow though the place stunk pretty bad. Under nearby trees I found the skull and a few gnawed bones. (Figure these had been drug off by coyotes.) Amazing! Ma Nature sure takes care of business! Scattered all around were piles of bear poop. This unlucky horse was struck during that lightning storm on I think 19 July. First saw it seven days later, bloated but almost intact. Less than three weeks gone by and the whole thing’s already been recycled; nothing left but bones, some excrement, and localized stench. ◦◦◦◦◦ Down to the trailcrew camp for a short visit. Telling them about my latest horse fatality, several of the crewfolk got down on me for being not sufficiently hard-core with Dieter. And maybe they’re right. But these guys have no empathy whatsoever for the visitors. With that smug, superior attitude of theirs, pretty much all the people who come back here are jerks and idiots. And yet all three of those kids have aspirations of becoming rangers. But hey: unless they grow up and modify their attitudes toward their fellows they’ll never make it in ranger-world…would continually be frustrated and despise the people they’re supposed to be serving. They don’t seem to grasp the fundamental truth that humans, by definition, trend toward the ignorant & lazy & careless end of the spectrum. This includes them and definitely me, too. In many ways, I’m a complete idiot! Many! The only way to reach people and modify behavior is with compassion and understanding—one of the most important lessons Lorenzo left me with. Yeah, I’m continuously disappointed and frustrated by things the visitors do. (See earlier tirade.) But you have to just suck it up and carry on…learn how to let it all go. In the end, it’s good for people to come to the mountains. It does them good. This is their land, too. End of second rant. ◦◦◦◦◦ Finally got to meet Jan and Stan Hunewill, owners of the Hunewill Ranch down in Bridgeport Valley. Been hearing about these folks since I first arrived. Stan is, what? fourth generation? Pioneer family, name on maps forevermore, a family that’s now part of the landscape. I’ve wondered what it must feel like to have that long-time, deep-in-the-bone connection to place. It was obvious right off that these are two fine specimens of humanity…top shelf. I’ve only ever heard nice things said about them, which is rare. They were on vacation with friends, everybody leading llamas, everybody looking pretty darn happy. Redtop got his first introduction to the South Americans and he reacted quite well (all things considered) to a head-on meeting with hideous, long-necked space-aliens. He acted terrified but also seemed curious—which, I thought, was a lot better than only being terrified. Oh, they must look horrible through his eyes! Got a laugh out of the whole group when I remarked: “Y’know how in sci-fi movies, the scariest monsters are the ones that look vaguely humanoid.” ◦◦◦◦◦ Home at a reasonable hour. Had a quick dinner, then walked down to Doc’s camp with Rip. Got there before sunset. Doc was just sitting down to a panful of some typical Doc-stew—red beans with chunks of Spam and onion, looked like. Mugsy enjoyed his share with some kibble mixed in. We sat around a tiny Doc-fire and gossiped while Rip the shadow-cat wove in and out of the dim firelight, slinking around. Doc got a kick out of my day’s happenings. ◦◦◦◦◦ Walked home in significant darkness, sky half-cloudy half-starry. It was humid and unusually warm with a tremendous display of lightning going on to the east and more intensely to the north, flash after flash, too far away to hear thunder. Weird weather. No rain.

 

→  31 visitors            →  16½  miles           →  1 firepit            →  5 lbs trash

 

Six days later:     20 Aug (Tue) ◦◦◦◦◦ Rode back to Piute tired and happy and relieved to be going home. [I’d been in the trailcrew camp working with them for several days while the cabin was occupied by Forest Service people.] Met two backpackers who’d passed by after the FS folks left. They saw a bear in the yard—bear with a white chest. I miss all the good stuff! Sounded like the bear I chased off two years ago. Prob’ly the one that ransacked the cabin in ’87. Guessing it’s here to feast on horseflesh. Hope so. ◦◦◦◦◦ Got unpacked. Happy horses home at last, grazing merrily in the hollows where the grass and sedges are still green. Cow bells ringing out back, all the world at peace. Took my river bath. Flies horrible all of a sudden—can’t help but think they’re connected to the not-so-fresh carcass less than a mile from here. So, after my dip, Rip and I went to check on the decay process. ◦◦◦◦◦ Started smelling that smell a hundred yards off. Cat not exactly...afraid. But wary. Ursa had already gotten into it—hole in the neck, belly skin ripped off revealing guts. One hind leg ripped off entirely. Rustling sound of a hundred thousand maggots prominent in the otherwise silence. Didn’t stink too bad. Claw marks on the hide and that dreadful, leering, toothy death-grin. I then did something strange but very Tim-like…sort of a science experiment, actually…an investigation into feline behavioral psychology. What I did was toss my cat onto the horse’s back, to see how he’d react and also gauge by the sound produced the carcass’ internal condition. Result of experiment: Rip bounced off just like I’d tossed him on a hot stovetop. And the carcass sounded as if it were mostly hollow, covered with brittle parchment. The process of decay is well advanced and in a couple of weeks this horse should be mostly back in the system. Walked home by moonlight.

 

Four days later:     24 Aug (Sat) ◦◦◦◦◦ Still light after dinner so I strolled up to “Deadhorse Meadow.” Amazed to find the carcass down to mostly bones already, a seething pool of maggots filling the body cavity, rustling feverishly in the last light. An unforgettable sound. It didn’t even smell that much. Well, that is, until you get up close. ◦◦◦◦◦

 

26 Aug (Mon)     ◦◦◦◦◦ Dropped down a gulley back into Piute Meadows. Visited the horse remnants, now a stringy pile of bones dragged off under some trees. Not much left but head and legs and a few thousand fly larvae. A hoof lying nearby, separated from the leg bones cleanly. It looked like a big hunk of yellowish plastic. It’s been two weeks, today, since the horse breathed its last. Thanks to maggots and bears, with a little help from coyotes and beetles, the job was completed in record time and well under budget. Didn’t need a chainsaw nor dynamite neither! It’s been very interesting and informative to watch the whole process. Decomposition makes the world go ‘round. ◦◦◦◦◦

 

Seventeen days later:     12 Sep (Thu)     ◦◦◦◦◦ Checked out the carcass, now reduced to a pile of bones and skin. Rip warily approached on his own, only mildly interested after his several visits. But he took some long, wrinkled-nose sniffs. Clearly not offended by the smell. I watched his face and body-language and wondered what he was experiencing. No idea. Not a clue. ◦◦◦◦◦

 

 

        ©2020 Tim Forsell                                                                          24 Oct 2020                 

Thursday, October 22, 2020

Piute Log...Further Mule Follies 1995

 29 Jun (Thu)     Day’s plan: laminate ranger-letters and map then pack in the whole deal plus posts, install entry sign and ride out, leaving stock at the pack station. Well, guess what? Plans changed! ◦◦◦◦◦ Spent all morning laminating maps. A tedious, exceptionally frustrating task. Wasted lots of contact paper and several maps as the *&%#@*! map wouldn’t lay flat and the perma-sticky contact paper would start to bunch up—very annoying. (Once that little hump forms, it just snowballs.) ◦◦◦◦◦  To the barn after lunch. Clouds building, thunder thundering. Caught up Brenda and Red. Decided I’d be better off taking the giant mule for packing in those long posts. But Brenda would not go in the stock truck. Billy B. and the fire crew were out there working on the new barracks so I enlisted their help. Still no luck. Tried a bit longer on my own after they left. Spent over an hour getting absolutely nowhere—a complete waste of time unless you count amusing the firecrew. (I could see them over there watching and kinda sniggering.) Finally admitted defeat, but not without a little supplementary humiliation tossed in for good measure. I was thoroughly steamed. It was starting to rain. Too late to go in now, a whole day basically wasted. So I turned the wretched half-ass loose in disgust and watched her trot off. But wait! She STILL HAS HER SADDLE ON, you you you IDIOT! Spent another half hour trying to catch her, which included having to wade across Swauger Creek (hoped no one saw that part….) before she finally gave up. ◦◦◦◦◦ Back to the warehouse. Raining. Cleaned built-up manure deposits out of the back of the truck. Greta showed up—it was 5:00 or so by this time—and without so much as a hello proceeded to chew me out for trying to load Brenda in the stock truck. “Brenda does not goin the stock truck!!” Greta thought I knew this and reminded me of past debacles involving trying to load and unload her—things I’d told Greta about myself that happened before she arrived in Bridgeport. Like the time it took Lorenzo a couple of hours to get her in and then she wouldn’t off-load and ended up spending the night. Another time  that Brenda finally loaded (I missed this one, too) but refused to exit so they extended her lead rope and tied it to a tree then drove the truck out from under her. Greta assumed I was just being pig-headed and stubborn as the mule but, truth is, these things happened years ago and had plum slipped my mind. I hardly ever use Brenda and figured she was just being “difficult” at the beginning of the season. Perhaps I’m growing senile and have forgotten things I should’ve known but this information came as a surprise. Greta was particularly incensed because she thought I knew all this. Plus, she’d already overheard two different people at the office gossiping about how I was out at the barn brutalizing our poor, helpless mule. News travels fast. Those guys on the fire crew who saw me kicking Brenda about the flanks don’t know enough about stock to know that a mule feels a swift kick like they’d feel a finger-poke. But we talked it all out and my boss felt better after venting. All of it rather ridiculous. I don’t mind being the butt of a joke or source of some juicy gossip (in fact, it’s probably good for me) but I do hate to rouse Greta’s ire. I just hope to never get busted for anything worse than this. 

 

     ©2020 Tim Forsell                                                           21 May 2020, 22 Oct 2020                      

Saturday, October 17, 2020

Piute Log...Falls Creek, Finally 1990

 28 Sep (Fri)     Heading back in. Got to the office early, hoping to dash in and out, but got mired down as usual. Finally made it out to Leavitt, had tea with Doc, saddled Pal and was off. ◦◦◦◦◦ Just riding Pal today (no packhorse, yippee!) so I decided on a whim to ride up into the hanging valley of Falls Creek and out its back—a long-time goal, actually. Doc has recently been working the old trail and told me just the other day where it takes off. Also about an old cow-camp somewhere up there, still being used apparently. This is the one sub-drainage (whatever you wanna call it) in all of Piute country that I haven’t visited yet. ◦◦◦◦◦ Not far beyond the last branch of Falls Creek there’s a small rock duck off in the trees marking the start of this obscure trail. You have to be looking to see it. For some reason, Doc makes an effort to keep this route open—barely. It climbs real steeply in short switchbacks straight up the side of the moraine and in a few places I could see cars on Highway 108, right across the way. Doc has recently lopped out overgrown places and I never got lost. Good thing—mountain mahogany thickets can be truly gawd-awful to bushwack through. Stormy-looking…windy. Impressive and brand-new views as we got higher, looking straight down on Leavitt Meadows and then into the basins of Sardine and McKay Creeks. The Sonora road right over there, kind of unsettling in a way since I was supposed to be having this uber-wilderness experience. ◦◦◦◦◦ When we got to the first high point the wind was ripping. And here came a flock of ravens to check out the interlopers. I was in my slicker, had it all buttoned up to the chin and was hanging onto my hat with big drops ten feet away on either side. Very dramatic situation. The ravens sweeped and swooped on us…some in pairs, playing together, flipping upside down in tandem. (These, probably juveniles—raven teenagers goofing off.) I chortled at them in mock raven-ese and this drew them right in. With the strong wind coming over the top they could just hang there riding the wave. I leaned way back in my saddle, gripping the horn with face pointed straight at the sky to watch the show. And these superb animals were floating and bobbing, dug into the wind, calmly observing the two of us from mere yards away. They’d rise over the top ever so slowly on spread wings, stare curiously (basically the same expression I was wearing) then wheel off with the gale. Moments of pure grace and gracefulness—I’ll not soon forget this encounter. ◦◦◦◦◦ Over the top and rode right by the detached stubby spire so plainly visible from the pack station. Been eyeing that thing for years now. It’s only fifty feet tall. I doubt it’s ever been climbed. ◦◦◦◦◦ Down into Falls Creek, after a total of about three miles along the ridgeline to get there. Led Pal down the still clearly visible trail angling across naked volcanic mudflow scree. The old cowcamp was right there where the trail hit bottom, among an open grove of mature lodgepoles. Some real oldies. This, at about 9000’. A load of abandoned camp junk, some of it—old grills, for one—that still may be in use. (Some outfit from the other side, Chichester, I believe, still runs cows in here.) Old old carvings on some of the trees, totally illegible and grown over, but one still legible from 1912 back when sheep, not cattle, were grazing this obscure little cirque valley. ◦◦◦◦◦ Surprised to find a definite trail on the north side of the creek. More carvings, another beauty from 1912 with a big cross, and a Trini Banuelos from ’31. ◦◦◦◦◦ This valley is very boggy, almost continually on the north-facing side, but the other side is steeper and densely timbered with lodgepole. So stayed in the bogs, which would be gruesome in a wet year—it’d suck the shoes off your horse’s feet or your own if you were foolish enough to try it on foot. Found one clear, bubbling spring located just under the crumbly lahar slope. ◦◦◦◦◦ Rode all the way to the back, circling beyond the farthest springs, right under some very impressive cliffs. Up the final steep slope, following deer trails now, over the top and up the ridge a bit to about 10200’. Windhowling! Contoured around to get on the right ridgeline, across one extremely steep slope that, had Pal slipped, he’d have rolled to his horsey-death. (I was leading him….) Stayed right on the crest of the ridge to near the pass. Took the old Kennedy trail instead of the PCT, Pal obviously very happy to at last be on trail he knew, and rode home through Walker Meadows. Started sprinkling and finally raining hard just as we got home. Val and Red waiting patiently at the back gate. I was beat—all the up and down takes it out of you, even if you are “just sittin’ there.” What a day!

 

      → no visitors      → 13½ miles      → 1 lb trash bits      → new trails and big views

 

 

Copied inside the front cover of this volume of Piute Log:

 

Ed Abbey, on his seasonal ranger position in Arches (from Desert Solitaire):

 

“Yes, it’s a good job. On the rare occasions when I peer into the future for more than a few days I can foresee myself returning here for season after season, year after year, indefinitely. And why not? What better sinecure could a man with small needs, infinite desires, and philosophic pretensions ask for? The better part of each year in the wilderness and the winters in some complementary, equally agreeable environment….”    

 

           It is good to think. Better to look and think. Best to look without thinking.

 

                                                                                                —Goethe

 

      ©2020 Tim Forsell                                                                                                25 Jul 2020