Thursday, December 24, 2020

Piute Log...Mystery at Barney Lake 2000

 27 May (Sat)    Memorial Day weekend patrol up Robinson Creek. First ride of the season! Before heading out, checked with the front desk. “Where you sending people these days?” (With snow levels still so low, not many places open yet.) Quite a few permits for Horse Creek, which means spring-skiers bound for Matterhorn Glacier. Decided on the spot to go up there first then continue to Barney Lake…see how far we can get past there. ◦◦◦◦◦ Heading out to the barn to collect Red, witnessed a most picturesque scene: two cowboys herding maybe fifty horses toward the Sweetwater Ranch pens there at the north end of the meadows near the Old Ranger Station. Yellow-headed blackbirds on the fence in that marshy place…meadows so-green-it-hurts receding toward distant snowy-craggy peaks. I was zooming along, caught up to then passed the galloping herd just as Sawtooth Ridge came up behind the lot—a calendar photo in motion. Two cars were pulled over there, tourists capturing a certified Kodak-moment. A stirring vignette, for sure. Particularly because it was so real. In the year 2000, here in Bridgeport Valley there are still a few gen-u-wine workin’ cowboys with gainfully-employed workin’ dogs out herding horses across a meadow-filled valley. (The breathtaking backdrop—pure bonus.) All of them, horses included, just going about their day-to-day lives. It certainly does capture the imagination, harking back to a different era entire. Not to over-romanticize but it’s a fact: cowboys are a Western archetype. ◦◦◦◦◦ Now, this was one of those Ultra-Spring days, everything all shiny and new. (My polarized sunglasses made the varied assortment of high clouds even more staged-looking against a chromatically enhanced blue-blue.) Mmmm-hmm. Sweet to be in the saddle again, riding a foxtrotting Cadillac-of-a-horse. Not many flowers yet but shrubs leafing out nicely. Twin Lakes spreading out below as we climbed up the side of the moraine. Lotsa boats dotting the lakes. ◦◦◦◦◦ Started passing skiers hiking in plastic boots carrying their heavy randoneĆ© gear up the hot, humid switchbacks, a long ways from snow. All of them out for just a night or two. Awful lot of work for a few short runs and a night on the ground; a lot of driving at either end of the fun bits. The way we modern Americans recreate in the mountains has turned into a kinda twisted form of what used to be thought of as “relaxation.” For a bunch of the folks I talked with, this will be one of the best weekends of their year but…. Whoa, wait, stop the sermonizing right now, boy. You’re not even preaching to the choir—nobody’s listening. ◦◦◦◦◦ Met one party of eight. Bay Area, bunch of friends. Jawed with one fella who seemed to be the group leader. Talking about the backcountry, how fine the Sierra, guy drops that he just got back from a week’s sojourn in Ionian Basin (Kings Canyon NP) and I could “check out” his “website” if I wanted to see pictures. “Ummm…is this one of those ‘virtual tour’ deals I’ve been hearing about?” Yep. “Oh dear,” I said, “you’re one of those.” [While this may seem hard to believe, another decade would pass before I first used computers. At the time, I had only a few friends who were online and knew almost nothing about this thing called “the Web.”] This was me coming on a bit strong, I’m afraid. (More like downright-rude.) But he ignored my snide, superior tone and we had a good, friendly debate. He actually acceded one point when I lamented, “I know there’s no way to stop this but what REALLY makes me sad is how there are no more ‘secret places’ left.” One thing the fella said that shocked me was that he actually enjoys “seeing more people coming back here.” For him and his friends, going into the wilderness is a social thing. Told him, “Not for me. But, then, I’m a ‘solitude guy.’” We both grinned and shrugged and called it a draw. ◦◦◦◦◦ Carried on into the hanging valley, as far as the end of the meadows. Hit snow shortly thereafter and wheeled around. ◦◦◦◦◦ Back down in the valley and on the main trail. Many many day-users heading for Barney Lake. Ran into one of the elderly-est people I’ve ever seen in the woods—a woman pushing ninety with (presumably) her daughter who was not exactly no spring chicken herself. The matron was well preserved and extremely well made-up. They’d been aiming for the lake but decided to turn back where the switchbacks began. The old gal was looking beat already. Pretty darn spry, though—one of those 88-year-olds at the Leisure Village who walk every day and join aerobic dance classes. She’ll break 100, no sweat. ◦◦◦◦◦ At Barney, went on early-season trash hunt. No beach to speak of yet with the high water. Lingering snowpatches in shaded spots, the main campsites all soggy-boggy. Found some last-year’s trash. ◦◦◦◦◦ On a whim, decided to leave Ranger Washburn a “present.” Here’s the deal: Just before you get to the lake, forty feet west of the trail and buried under leaf duff in the scrawny aspens, there’s this pile of galvanized metal sheeting. I first stumbled on it, trash-hunting, back around ‘85 or ’86—some kinda weird roofing tin, no idea what it was for. Didn’t give it much thought at the time. Today, kinda amazed that it only took me about two minutes to find it again. For years I’d planned on packing it all out. Time to carpĆ© the diem y’all! (I’ll be bringing in Colin’s basecamp gear soon; maybe he can hack it all up with a Pulaski and crush the pieces and we’ll pack ‘em out.) ◦◦◦◦◦ So I drug the junk out from under a thick pile of duff, three ten-foot-long sections. Upon inspection it looks to have been some sort of watercraft. Hard to explain but two of the pieces were like square, galvanized chimney pipe material flattened out, with one end carefully cut and soldered into an upcurved nose like a sled. Some sorta pontoon-boat affair? The third section had a short wooden plank across the back end with hand-forged iron ring bolted to it, suggesting the stern of a narrow boat. Looks plenty old, whatever it was. I’d love to know the story behind this. Be interesting to hear what Colin thinks.

            

       → 12 miles           → 66 visitors           → 2 lbs trash

 

Not long after, this mystery was at least partially solved. On a whim, I asked Bart Cranney about it one day thinking he might know something. He did: Bart said that, years ago (1960s?), there’d been a little dock up at Barney with this funky home-made boat. Apparently, fishermen could “rent” it for the day and get a key at Mono Village that unlocked the chain. Well! And I don’t recall what happened to the remains. I don’t believe they ever got packed out and may still be up there hidden under the aspens, which is where I should’ve left them in the first place. Hope so. Historical artifacts, at this point.

 

        ©2020 Tim Forsell                                                                               15 Dec 2020              

Piute Log...Where's My Hat? 2001

 When it comes to Himalayan climbing literature, it’s a truism that books about successful expeditions just don’t “sell.” The climb may have been extremely difficult, loaded with frightful hazards, suffering, near-misses, and frostbit digits; it may be an account of one of the Last Great Problems, pulled off in impeccable style by some of the worlds best alpinists. But if no one dies, the book won’t sell. Okay, the analogy isn’t perfectly apt but in some ways I face a similar situation here: maintaining interest levels when everything goes well, when there’s no catastrophes. ◦◦◦◦◦ One of the best things about life as a Wilderness ranger is that something interesting—something amazing, or inspiring, or just plain awful—happens virtually every day. In my journals there were hardly ever days with absolutely nothing worth recounting—even if it was just a nifty bird sighting or out of the ordinary visitor encounter. On the other hand, an average day in ranger-world doesn’t always make for riveting reading. Cutting fallen trees out of the trail with a crosscut saw has a certain primitive appeal, maybe, but no one is interested in details about digging waterbars or pruning willows or installing signs or checking Wilderness permits. A lot of my log entries include rants about this and that (I’m a ranter by nature) or me venting about the atrocious behavior of idiots-on-vacation. Such things get stale in a hurry. Even the close encounters with forest critters might start to get a little old. Glorious sunsets: use judiciously. But search & rescues, anything involving bears—real fan favorites. But—lucky for me—not too many of those to share. ◦◦◦◦◦ I first copied what follows way back in 2014 but never finished the editing. In the meantime, I’ve posted a disproportionate number of entries that centered on livestock-related adversity. These certainly qualify as stimulating reads, especially the ones where I…or the horse…or both of us “coulda died.” Also, there’s this: an invaluable tip I got from my mentor, Lorenzo—a masterful raconteur. Lorenzo said that, when telling stories about yourself, “It’s better to be the goat than the hero. You don’t wanna always be the hero of your own stories. People start to get bored.” As it happens, in most of my stock-debacle entries I’m hapless victim, at best. But more often than not, I’ve done something foolish and it’s me being me at my very worst. ◦◦◦◦◦ So I’m going to post yet another semi-embarrassing misadventure narrative—the dramatic conclusion to a summer of mostly peace and plentitude—my nineteenth season on the Bridgeport Ranger District.

 

17 Oct (Wed)    Leaving tomorrow so big day ahead. So many “things”! To do! As in: everything gets stored away—moved somewhere else, put in a can, hung on a wall. This pile of papers here has to be sorted, that jar of stuff I never ate, emptied and cleaned or thrown out. This and that…then there’s that…and oh this, too. Plus what seems like five-hundred other micro-chores. ◦◦◦◦◦ Got down to it. Chopped firewood (in case of winter emergency break-in). Oiled my chaps and boots. At one point, went out to take care of something and heard loud whoosh of flapping big-bird wings not far behind and overhead. Figured it was just a raven, didn’t give it much thought, but turned to look and, whoa! That “raven” has a pure white head and white tail! Huge bird! BALD EAGLE fly-by!! It flew right over my head, no more than thirty feet away, circled overhead a few times, climbing fast, lookin’ me right in the eye. And then…gone. Wow. Few minutes later, I went out to look for it. Directly overhead but very high, higher than hawks usually soar, three big birds. Too close to the sun for me to see head color. Went for my binoculars but before I made it back to the yard they’d up’n disappeared (as soaring raptors can do in an instant). I’m pretty sure it was three eagles. And that’s when I noticed an entire sky’s-worth of assorted crazy clouds, variations on a cirrus theme, with a gleaming 52° halo around the sun. It was that kinda day. ◦◦◦◦◦ After lunch, cleared the porch, shifted tools into the cabin, stored unused food and grain, swamped out ice chests. Shitbird finally deigned to show himself late into the afternoon. (That there is one gallivantin’ kitty….) To tire him further, maybe get him to sleep more tonight, we went on a hike. Scrambled up to the viewpoint across the river. Rookie cat followed with little enthusiasm. He lagged behind but finally made it. Sat and admired the meadow and surrounding peaks from that fine vantage—my own personal domain—while he prowled around. Had one last bath at dusk and with it came the gift of a brand new river-insight. ◦◦◦◦◦ The gravel bar (where I bathe most days) changes shape every year and last spring’s flood left it much broader than in prior years. And today I finally “got” something I’ve missed. Okay: Spring floods scour the riverbed, deepening its holes. But all that sand & gravel isn’t simply washed away; much of it gets re-deposited almost immediately—shoveled into inside bends or dumped just downstream of the newly deepened holes, relocated into eddy zones. The size of sand & gravel deposits below fresh-scoured holes is proportional to the deepness of the hole. And just now, I finally was able to grok the connection between my deeper-than-usual swimmin’ hole and much-enlarged—longer, broader—gravel bar. It’s all physics…fluid dynamics, eddy patterns, wave action. Waves! (So many things boil down to waves!) But ain’t it grand that I can keep on learning how things work in the mountain environment simply by seeing and watching and figgerin’ stuff out? It! Never! Ends! ◦◦◦◦◦ After dark I lit the bonfire—junk-wood piled months ago, awaiting immolation. A fine ritual, this last-night-at-the-cabin burn. Kitties came over to watch, even. I wonder what they make of those ten foot flames? At a safe distance they showed no fear but didn’t exactly look spellbound, either. ◦◦◦◦◦ Kept on working. Making good headway and I’m farther along than usual. This was day #103 at the cabin this year. (Just counted.) Despite this season’s brevity, spent more time back here than I have in recent years. My one true home! 

 

18 Oct (Thu)     Blocked the cat door last night with my cast-iron griddle. Shitbird woke me in the wee hours, wanting out. Naturally, he was outraged at having his civil liberties denied and protested in cat-fashion by clawing & scratching, pacing & mrrow!ing without cease. Pissed off was he! Messed up my sleep, thankyouverymuch, but I expected as much. Finally just got up. Still dark. It was 26° F, utterly still…that profound silence, such a marvelous thing to “hear.” Venus just up over the ridge when I looked. ◦◦◦◦◦ Got to work. This day always has a special edge, an urgency…every action directed at one final goal: shutting the metal door, clang. Much stuff yet to do. Thought I was on top of things but, of course, there’s always the unanticipated “extras.” Like: taking both cats, separately, on walks so they’d go potty. Would’ve already hung up all the leftover FS bigwig-trip sleeping bags in the loft to keep rodents from harvesting stuffing for nest material but, as a Certified Feline Psychologist I knew that altering the cats’ bedroom scene would alert them that something was up and they’d disappear. So that took awhile plus I put off to the last minute writing up an entire season’s-worth of Incident Reports (basically, tickets for people who didn’t get caught). To me, THE MOST absurd of rangerly duties but allegedly important, being one concrete way to alert higher-ups that we need more Wilderness funding. So I spent a good hour and a half writing up completely bogus IRs, Lorenzo-style, making up an assortment of the usual travesties and knaveries that I find after the villains have fled the scene. Wolfed down some chow, chewing while loading panniers and washing last dishes. Horses already caught and fed. Like the cats, they could tell something big was up. When I’d go out to stir the ashes of last night’s bonfire they’d shoot me these pointed, questioning looks using subtle eyebrow and ear innuendo. ◦◦◦◦◦ This was I think the third time I’ve closed the cabin. Most years, people come up after I’m gone. I prefer doing it myself if only because it lends a real sense of completing a cycle. Got up on the roof, closed the skylight covers, then put up the shutters. Suddenly, the cabin’s very dark inside, in broad daylight. Weird. Had to light a lantern. Covered bookshelves with another tarp. Cupboard now bare with doors wide open (so Ursa won’t bother to rip them off their hinges as per the ’87 break-in). Both cats were crashed-out in the loft. One of the last chores is piling all four mattresses on the table. This left kitties huddled in the dark on the loft’s bare floor, their various beds all gone. These final chores are unsettling; everything homey about the place has been taken away and “home” is suddenly gone. Within the space of an hour my summer abode turned into a dark, lifeless cave—a far cry from July with light streaming in, tall bouquet on the table, everything in its proper place. Makes me sad in a way I find hard to express. That leave-taking thing. ◦◦◦◦◦ The very last task prior to shutting the metal door is sacking cats. Horses and mule waiting at the rail. (Piute saddled, Zack loaded, Tom saddled but with no load; Brenda naked except for halter and free to follow.) Cats, protesting, forced into burlap sacks; sacks duck taped shut and gingerly placed inside nosebags, tail-end at the bottom. The cats (who’ve been here since Solstice—almost four months) reacted with proper feline outrage. Both instantly went into claustrophobic frenzies with attendant yowlings. They hate this part but in a few hours it’ll all be over and forgotten til next time. Closed and locked metal door behind me. Without cats to deal with, I’d take a short break at this juncture, stroll around the place one last time, looking everything over, absorbing the lights & sounds and fluffing up my sense of gratitude. The feline frenzy precludes this moment of quiet appreciation and forces me to just go. They went silent when I hung their nosebags off my saddlehorn, one on either side. Red’s always cool with this; not so, Piute. Bagged cats make him nervous. Finally underway at 2:30. (Eight hours already, with no breaks.) ◦◦◦◦◦ And this is where things got “interesting.” Two minutes out, across the river and up onto the trail, something spooked my string from behind and—just like that [raise left hand and snap fingers]—my saddlehorse is galloping full tilt, front gate up ahead. I’ve only experienced this once before, some years back, after a close lightning strike. Instant panic-and-flee response, lots of things happening at once. Piute accelerated so fast! I dropped Tom’s lead and went for the horn and in doing so lost my reins. Reaching down with free hand, trying to latch the reins, out of the corner of my eye I see a wide-eyed Brenda come up on the right. She’d been at the rear, had spooked at something—or nothing—and then precipitated panic by ramming into Zack (heard that) who then charged Tom. Terror spread through the ranks. I felt it coming from behind, into my horse and through his body into my thighs and seat. With the adrenaline surge I went out of myself and into survival mode—certain perceptions heightened, others thrown overboard. Gate coming up fast. No room! Giant mule just off my right hip, cats howling. I finally got hold of the reins and tried to haul Piute in. He jammed on the breaks and his rapid deceleration caused the cat-bags to swing up wildly and slam back down (like my ass was being slammed into the saddle). Pitiful lament from both cats, me just hanging onto my saddlehorn and trying to hold down the leaping catbags. Then Shitbird was gone—his bag empty and flapping. Gate just ahead: No! Room! Brenda veered hard off to the right and it looked like she’d crash into that old downed log but then skidded to a stop, spun ‘round, and resumed galloping—back up the trail the way we’d come. All this happened at just about exactly the same time and in my condensed state I only witnessed bits of the action. Never even saw the two packhorses. Got Piute slowed down and stopped, maybe ten yards shy of the gate. I wheeled around and saw my sacked cat lying right at the edge of the trail, giant mule heading right for him. She ran right over him and sprinted off. My blood froze. Fearing the worst, I rode over to the sack…wave of relief seeing it untrampled, cat unsmashed, then looked up to see a cloud of dust rising behind three terrified four-leggers heading for Kirkwood Pass in a big hurry. I quick plopped Shitbird’s sack back into the nosebag and went in pursuit. Piute (now completely freaked) was doing a crow-hop dance making my poor kitties wail anew. Jumped off him and dropped both catbags there by the trail. I was furious. Wordlessly, angrily wondering why—on this gorgeous autumn day, symbolic day of departure—must I be subjected to mortal fear? What just happened?! ◦◦◦◦◦  Dashed up the trail and caught up with the three fugitives a quarter mile off. They’d slowed to a walk by this time but our sudden arrival set them off again and they all trotted down into the meadow toward a steep drop-off into the river. I was raving insanely, screaming at them to STOP! STOP! Ringleader Brenda, loose, leading Tom with Zack roped behind him. (Of course!—mules are always the ringleaders.) I leapt off Piute and lunged for Tom’s dragging lead-rope—Gotcha! But then my knavish saddlehorse walks away and I had to chase himaround. Piute doing his standard cagey act, like he does even in the corral—turning and wheeling away right when you go to nab him. Meanwhile, the other three stooges wander off again, la la-la. Final insult: Piute proceeded to wade across the river and I plunged in after him, up to my knees, before he finally let me take hold of his reins mid-stream. I’d lost it completely—an out-of-control, trembling heap of fury in sloshing-wet boots. This is when sane men commit murder. But I got back on Piute with Tom in tow and headed back to collect my traumatized kitties. Brenda followed meekly behind. ◦◦◦◦◦ The cats were still and seemed to be okay when I poked their sacks. (Plaintive, questioning meow?s in response.) Then noticed my hat was missing. Where’s my hat? So I had to go off in search of lost Stetson. Tied up all three horses and Brenda, too. Retraced my “steps” but couldn’t recall the exact sequence—it was all a blur. This is the place where we scraped under the lodgepole branches…but, no, it wasn’t there. This is where we dropped into the meadow…I think. No hat. Went back and tried again. Did it fall in the river when I waded after Piute and float away? Rode back toward the front gate and finally found it by the trail where Piute’s grinding-to-a-halt had bounced it off my head. ◦◦◦◦◦  Finally able to retrieve the cats. (In our absence, Shitbird managed to crawl/roll a dozen feet, his sack now studded with pine needles.) Got underway again and through the front gate—forward progress at last!—forty-five minutes after my day blew up. I felt downright ill. Following adrenal-discharge there’s this half-mental, half-physical deflation—a queasy, weak-in-the-knees, not-fully-in-your-skin sensation, most unpleasant. Mixed in with complete outrage that this had happened when it did and…period. How did I end up with those three drones on this last tour? Why didn’t you tie Brenda on, idiot? You should know better by now! As we went along, details started coming back and I replayed them over and over again. Throat felt raw like when you’re catching a cold and I realized it was from all the yelling, which I barely noticed at the time. Sickened by how close I’d come to losing the mini-lion and how that could’ve gone. Add thoroughly disgusted by how I’d handled myself. Shocked by how quickly and easily a perfectly fine day turned to vinegar. ◦◦◦◦◦ Mercifully, the stock all settled right down. Piute, on the other hand, was sketchy all the way out. The whole debacle hit me really hard. The helplessness. I’ve experienced so many moments of crisis—with the stock and while climbing—but have rarely felt quite so out-of-control. Had a lot to do with my feline wards’ lives being endangered. And my abominable behavior. The rest of the ride I coughed with raw throat (I hardly ever yell) and felt drained and diminished. At the Fremont junction, still so distracted that I forgot to stop and retrieve my stashed shovel. Upon remembering, a mile later, I felt bad all over again. ◦◦◦◦◦ It was actually a perfect Indian summer day in spite of all this noise and I finally came around enough to enjoy it. In dry years the aspens up here sometimes turn orange—some of them almost red—and if no big winds come the leaves just hang on and continue quaking. Today I saw some of the finest displays yet. Brilliant orange and scarlet clones mixed tastefully with piney greens, backed by volcanic cliffs in earthy shades of brown. Nary a soul did I see. (In fact, the trail crew were the only humans I saw this whole tour.) ◦◦◦◦◦ Got out at dusk. Drove to the barn, weary in my soul. It was dark before everything was done. Nobody had fed so I had to haul a couple wheelbarrow loads of hay out to the corral. Said goodbye to Red and old Valiente but they were only interested in hay. A kinda sad way to end the season. Cats were in the cab, waiting. Stopped by Greta’s. Of course she asked how it’d gone. Told her, curtly, that I’d just had “a terrible experience”—her face fell—but it was “gonna have to wait til tomorrow.” ◦◦◦◦◦ At the warehouse, off-loaded cats (Whoo-hoo!) plus all my crates and sacks various. Paused for the first time in 13 hours to stand, facing west, and watch a thin crescent moon set over Rickey Peak. Filthy and beat but unable to shower, alas. Cruel irony! Shower shut off for winter! But thanks to a big can of Chunky®Soup, I was able to eat something like dinner. Had picked up a newspaper on my way through town; since I was last here there’s been anthrax infections, delivered via U.S. mail. We live in interesting times. And that’s how I finished off the 2001 season, Amen.

 

       ©2020 Tim Forsell                                                                                      12 Dec 2020

Monday, December 7, 2020

Piute Log...Easy Catch 2000

 3 Oct     Wind blew hard, the whole night through. Finally calmed down before first light. Woke up stiff and feeling pretty beaten down from yesterday’s effort, as expected. Got a fire going then sat by the stove to read my book about planets (the other eight), sip Postem, and pet Lucy. All at the same time. Mostly took the day off—not only because I needed/deserved one (just counted—only two real days-off in the last seventeen) but so’s to be rested and whole tomorrow for packing out trailcrew. ◦◦◦◦◦ Went to check on the stock as soon as I got up. Nobody to be seen nowhere nohow. After breakfast, took a walk with Shitbird to the top of the quarry [my name for a nearby vantage point at the edge of the meadow] and spotted the equine fugitives on the farthest hillside meadow southeast of here, a mile away as the eagle flies. (Also, the place where last-best green grass grows.) ◦◦◦◦◦ Later, took another stroll—this time with Lucy—down to the mouth of the gorge to admire those lovely polished rocks, newly exposed in gravel bars left high and dry by the river’s scouring out a new, deeper path through there in last spring’s big runoff. Elegant water-worn hunks of stripy metamorphic rock. This followed by reading, writing (no arithmetic) and a long mid-day zonk up in the loft flanked by two soft, furry critters…sheer comfiness. ◦◦◦◦◦ Day’s last task: lure equines into the pasture to hasten tomorrow’s departure. They were allllll the way back on that far hillside. (No surprise…that’s where I’d be grazing.) Kept a lookout for them as the day wore down and waited til last sun, then headed off with nosebag slung over my shoulder and one halter. Crossed on the log at Vidal’s camp and got just below the rise they were on, still out of sight, and did my here’s-the-grain-come-and-get-it whistle. Heard, instantly, a flurry of hooves in grass—a pleasant sound—and felt a big smile spread across my face. Ha! Gotcha! Too easy! Timing is everything: they were well-fed, satiated and satisfied, maybe even a little bored, and the sun was leaving. I just turned around and walked home. They all fell in and followed me in a line, all the way to the cabin. And the four most recalcitrant, knavish, hardest-to-catch, most-addicted-to-grain of the lot all walked straight into the corral. Locked ‘em up without ever having looked at or spoken to or touched any of them. It was a textbook catch, (partially) making up for some of my worst-ever debacles earlier this season. Timing is absolutely critical and there are some fairly subtle psychological elements involved, all learned through experience. Horses—and especially mules—teach valuable life-lessons if you’re willing to pay close attention to patterns and learn from the fiascos. Regardless, the penalty for doing things the wrong way is swift and sure. Boy oh boy, can I attest to that! Working with the equine kind is definitely one of those Zen kinda things. Which, I suppose, is why I both love and (sometimes) loathe them. Because they’ll make you look in the mirror and see some idiot staring back.

 

Copied on the first page of this volume of the Piute Log:

 

I find you, Lord, in all things and in all

my fellow creatures, pulsing with your life;

as a tiny seed you sleep in what is small

and in the vast you vastly yield yourself.

 

The wondrous game that power plays with things

is to move in such submission through the world:

groping in roots and growing thick in trunks

and in treetops like a rising from the dead.

 

                                                                        —Rilke

 

“And horseback, unlike any other area of his life, he never lost his temper, which, in horsemen, is the final mark of the amateur.”

                                                                                     —Tom McGuane, Nobody’s Angel

 

 

        ©2020 Tim Forsell                                                                                           6 Dec 2020    

Sunday, December 6, 2020

Piute Log...Lost Pilgrims 2000

 20 Aug (Sun)    Leisurely breakfast and coffee-fueled gab. Greta and Linda packing up to leave but it was pert near to noon before they got underway with three packhorses in tow. (Hauling out all the gear left behind by fish’n’frog folk [biologists] last week.) Too late to head off on my planned patrol oh well so instead opted to tackle a longstanding, and I mean long-standing  project: build new front gate. ◦◦◦◦◦ To that end, started by hauling giant cedar post across the river—one of the two that have been out behind the cabin with other junk probably since the place was built. And planted it, good and deep. Three women hailing from Santa Cruz passed by. One of them, Sue, I’ve talked with on several previous occasions. They were camped upmeadow. I got invited up for cocktails but declined—ready for a quiet evening at home after having visitors the last few nights. Worked on the gate til 7:00, almost finished it, then got in the river, ahh. Haven’t been up in the hammock for days. Am now. Skyline rose, blotting out the sun.

21 Aug (Mon)     Went up to stony camp early to visit Sue, Ann, and Margaret. That be me seizing the day, female contact-wise. It’s a kind of food. Nice converse, sitting in the dirt in full morning sun with the river right there singing us a soft song. Walking back, picked this tour’s table bouquet. ◦◦◦◦◦ ‘Nother project: hauled dirt from round corral to hitch rail—“dirt” being the mix of manure, sand, soil, and crushed pine cones that accumulates around the perimeter of the corral. Every few years I use this handy source of fill to fill in the pits at the hitchrail—pits dug by grumpy fidgety equines, deepened further by cloudburst runoff. Hauled fourteen wheelbarrow loads in between a constant stream of August-type visitors. ◦◦◦◦◦ First, an older Japanese couple from Bart’s basecamp in Walker Meadows. Back in camp, hearing that their dayhike included visiting a “ranger station,” the woman asked Becky [camp cook], “Are there any shops?” She’d maybe want to purchase a Club Piute T-shirt…perhaps a coffee mug or some locally made craftwork! Becky apparently straightened her out. To her credit, the woman told me this story herself, poking fun at her city-slickerishness. Speaking of which, when she found out there were cats living here, I explained that these weren’t pets, they were working-cats, “RPOs—Rodent Patrol Officers, ha ha.” My joke (I think it’s pretty funny) didn’t really go over—they didn’t get the FS thing of there being acronyms ending with “O” for every job position. The woman was absolutely incredulous when I told her that my half-wild kitties caught and devoured mice. For a living, as it were. Really: she could hardly believe it. That the cats could—would—actually catch mice. And then eat them, ee-uww! Ick! I really had to work at convincing her I wasn’t just pulling her leg. Now that’s city slicker. ◦◦◦◦◦ Then Becky arrived on horseback with another base-camper, a self-described grandmother who was pretty scared by her horse but loved the cabin. Lotsa gab on the porch, a quick tour of the inside, and I tried to sneak in some Wilderness propaganda. Another group passed by but didn’t stop. (I checked their permit for show.) Lastly, two guys on horseback, all western, bound for Howard Black’s [an established camp at the head of the meadow] just said hi and kept going. ◦◦◦◦◦ When everybody finally left, went out to finish up the gate. Hadn’t been at it but a few minutes when I heard voices, looked up, and saw a woman with four young children in tow coming down the hill. They came to a stop. The mom was clearly at wits end, frazzled, scared, the whole package. “We’re lost. Have you seen a man with two kids and a burro?” … ”Nope. No burros today,” I replied, dead-pan. At this, she visibly collapsed. I was facing her from just the other side of my brand-new gate. She was in a state of clinical shock—had that glassy-eyed stare, and without even looking grabbed the top strand of the gate, which had barb-wire wrapped around it, to steady herself. Twice I admonished her to watch out but she didn’t even hear me. The littler kids with daypack-sized backpacks, alternately staring at me and shooting their mom worried glances. ◦◦◦◦◦ This was their first backpack trip as a family. Six kids in all; oldest fifteen, the youngest just three, good lord. They’d borrowed a burro from a friend and it was “giving us problems,” she said. Problems? A burro? Imagine that! For one thing, the burro kept wanting to go “too fast.” So the husband/dad and two of the kids forged ahead with plans to find a camp, unload, then come back and get the others’ packs. He had all the food and shelter with him. She didn’t know where camp was but the husband had mentioned a “Lower Piute Meadows” and what are they gonna do? I figured they’d missed each other while husband/dad was off looking for a site and she’d kept going. It was hard to get anything useful out of her. The fifteen-year-old suggested they wait here while he went back but she snapped, “No! I am NOT splitting this family into THREE groups!” I wasn’t too keen on getting involved just then but told her, “Look—I’ll saddle my horse and go find them. You all stay here and try not to worry.” ◦◦◦◦◦ Fortunately, the horses were right there and when I got back, mom was sitting on a little folding camp chair with the remains of her brood clustered around, granola bars in hand. She’d regained some composure and we looked at their map. Then I dashed off but only got a hundred yards or so before here comes a tiny little girl followed by a shaggy burro followed by more kids and a more-than-disgruntled dad bringing up the rear. There was steam coming out of his ears. “She’s right down there,” I pointed. He says to no one in particular, “…doesn’t know when to stop. She walks past THREE signs and keeps going….” More or less muttering to himself. He was really pissed. He’d told her Lower Piute but, when I talked to her, she’d seemed unclear of the final destination and I pointed out that there’s no sign at “Lower Piute Meadows.” Sure ‘nuf, the mom contingent had passed while he was off unloading. Now he was trying to chase them down. ◦◦◦◦◦ I headed back to the cabin, turned Red loose, then went over to see how they were doing. By then the adults had hashed it out, everybody was smiling, just about to take off again. We had a quick debrief and I asked, “Well…what did you learn from this?” Dad, vehemently: ”Never split up your group!” Told them how twice I’ve had lost Scoutmasters. Got themselves lost by splitting off from the group, forging ahead in unfamiliar country, not stopping at trail forks to wait—that it’s altogether too easy for there to be confusion. And what happened to them was a classic example of why you should always stay together—especially if you have six children and a borrowed dunkey. The whole clan headed back to Lower Piute (wished I’d asked them where they were from) and I finally finished my new gate. Only took me ten years or so to knock off this project.

 

 

            ©2020 Tim Forsell                                                                              6 Dec 2020                 

Friday, November 13, 2020

Piute Log...High Jinks, Cloudburst 1993

 “Cloudburst” refers to Cloudburst Group Camp, a reservation-only, undeveloped campground not far down the road from Leavitt Meadows Pack Station. Renegade ranger and scofflaw that I was, for years I used this place as my own private camping area. It was seldom occupied and I’d just let myself in through the locked gate with my trusty Forest Service universal Yale key. The “campground” consists of a narrow dirt road along the rim of a gorge-section of the West Walker, a couple of hundred feet below. No picnic tables, water, or outhouses. Not only are there a couple of spectacular views from rocky overlooks, but being located behind a low ridge paralleling 108 makes the camp invisible from the highway and lacking traffic noise. A most peaceful spot with a special feel thanks to the locked gate. I’d go there sometimes on a days-off day of pure rest and occasionally went with friends to camp in luxurious privacy. There’s nothing to keep people from parking outside the gate and walking along the rim or down to the river but people hardly ever did this, near as I could tell. In low water, you can make your way down on a steep path then scramble through an impressive defile between cliffs of the brown lava mudflow which once blanketed the entire region. Also, there’s a wonderful grove of cottonwoods, aspen, and white fir greeting you at the bottom. ◦◦◦◦◦ In spring and early summer, passing through the gorge on foot is not an option. (It requires boulder-hopping even in low water.) Few people know about what I called the “Z” curve. During meltwater flood the whole torrent slams into a tight turn—all furious whitewater and roar—ricochets off, then almost immediately crashes into another bend before proceeding more sedately. A truly spectacular natural feature come spring. ◦◦◦◦◦ My favorite place to stay was at the camp’s far end, right on the rim, but when shade was in order I’d park under one of the finest old-growth Jeffrey pines in the Bridgeport area. One of its lowest limbs curved down almost to the ground. Back then, “technical tree climbing” was part of my generalized climbing habit. I was able to get into a few tall pines by taking advantage of these dangling limbs. (The first moves, starting from a dead hang, require some gymnastic maneuvering.)

 

23 May (Sun)     OFF. Hanging out with no plan. Old buddy Jim Kohman (Piute Ranger, 1985–87) showed up for a visit while on vacation. Went down to Cloudburst after meeting up at the Leavitt Falls overlook. Walked from our trucks up the river past spectacular rocky points to the “Z” curve which is a raging spectacle of water just now. ◦◦◦◦◦ Later on, climbed the huge Jeffrey pine above (looming directly above) our site while Jim prepared the BBQ fire and in the process spooked two flying squirrels from their nest in a crevice—the result of a lightning strike. The first one zipped out, scurried around the trunk and was gone. Then its mate popped out and stopped cold, just two feet from my face. I was a bit surprised at how small they are. We stared each other down, both of us motionless, for a long minute. I willed myself not to blink. Their eyes are large for a squirrel and shiny black all full of life and mystery…blunt face, whiskers aquiver, folds of skin bunched loosely in a charming fringe at its sides like a gathered floor-length fur robe. It had this wonderfully broad, flat, silky-glisteny tail that obviously provides additional surface area for gliding and also acts as a rudder. My first good look at one of these fine critters. A real good look, too. Apparently flying squirrels are quite common but seldom seen, being creatures of the night (hence those adorable, Japanese-cartoony eyes). This was one of those four-star nature observation/encounters, almost fifty feet off the deck standing on the lowest, massive limb of a stately pine patriarch. After the squirrel finally fled I climbed to the very top, lightning-walloped and snaggy, an honest 100+ feet. Felt fairly exhalted. ◦◦◦◦◦ 

 

 

      ©2020 Tim Forsell                                                                                               23 Oct 2020

Sunday, October 25, 2020

The Demeaning of Life Chapter 24

 

Chapter 24. LIFE In Review


What I wish to make clear…is, in short, that from all we have learnt about the structure of living matter, we must be prepared to find it working in a manner that cannot be reduced to the ordinary laws of physics. And that not on the ground that there is any ‘new force’ or what not, directing the behaviour of the single atoms within a living organism, but because the construction is different from anything we have yet tested in the physical laboratory.

 

          Erwin Schrƶdinger (1943)

                                                                  

BIOCHEMIST JOHN KENDREW, in his book The Thread of Life: “Personally I do not think there is…any difference in essence between the living and the nonliving, and I think most molecular biologists would share this view. Kendrew’s glib pronouncement has a breezy tone intended to impress upon his readers the committed materialist’s creed: It’s all chemistry, folks! Life consists entirely of the interaction of lifeless atoms—nothing more. But Kendrew is on shaky ground when he claims that a majority of scientifically minded people share his view. He’s welcome to his opinions. But this chapter offers another perspective—one that should leave little doubt about the vast difference between living and the nonliving matter. And that LIFE’s capacities somehow extend beyond the realm of pure chemistry and physics.

One indicator of LIFE’s problematical status is how resistant it is to unambiguous description. In fact, scientists have yet to agree on a simple, clear-cut definition. Science writer Carl Zimmer: “When Portland State University biologist Radu Popa was working on a book about defining life, he decided to count up all the definitions that scientists have published in books and scientific journals. Popa gave up counting after about 300 definitions.” A quick review of that list shows chemists, physicists, and biologists stamping their proposals with a point of view characteristic of their respective fields. 

To get a sense of why defining “life” might present challenges, consider some representative offerings. A typical example: “Living organisms are characterized by five properties: they evolve, they recognize themselves, they develop, and they feel. The official NASA version: “Life is a self-sustained chemical system capable of undergoing Darwinian evolution.” Life as a bearer of information: “a material system that can acquire, store, process, and use information to organize its activities.” The biochemist’s take: “a potentially self-perpetuating open system of linked organic reactions, catalyzed stepwise and almost isothermally by complex and specific organic catalysts which are themselves produced by the system.” Two, more technical-sounding examples: “a self-sustaining kinetically stable dynamic reaction network derived from the replication reaction” and “autocatalytic energy-processing systems stabilized far from equilibrium.” Another source lists a number of characteristics and requirements: reproduction, metabolism, nutrition, complexity, organization, growth and development, hardware/software entanglement, information content, and the paradoxical conjunction of permanence and change. (One candidate property for such lists, notably absent: “a susceptibility to death.”) 

            Several attributes of living organisms prove even harder to pin down. Among them are autonomyself-determinationpowers of self-repair and regenerationinterdependenceresilience and homeostasis. Add to these the capacity to learncognitiondevelopment and cooperation—features whose dynamic interplay contributes to evolutionary adaptation. Finally, there’s that enigmatic, core quality—or  core “condition”—shared by all living beings: call it aliveness.      

Some of these features are quantifiable, measureable, or in some fashion open to empirical analysis. Others, like those in that second set of more slippery items, are less easily treated. For instance, what about that continually recurring theme, seen throughout the natural world, of individual autonomy? While there are so many close associations between organisms, individuals—whether microbial, multi-cellular or even individual eukaryotic cells—tend to maintain some degree of independence in their interactions. In labs, human tissue cells are reared in nutritional broths where they assume amoeboid form. Here’s an observable phenomenon that appears to offer a rich trove of opportunities for scientific study: these cells—adrift and abandoned—continue to divide and multiply while searching for and, given the opportunity, reuniting with other marooned cells in a hearty attempt to resume their collective roles. Cells acting as if they were just going about their normal affairs and making due with what’s available. But the implications of these independent cells’ actions and instincts continue to be viewed exclusively in mechanistic terms. In times past, this odd phenomenon would instantly be recognized as a clear-cut manifestation of the universal life-force. It would elicit sage nods of reverent admiration from witnesses gazing down on the Petri dishes.

Here lies the source of the problem that has caused so much confusion and resistance. Our difficulty in pinning down the essence of living matter’s unique vitality is rooted in this: LIFE possesses distinctive qualities, tendencies, and predispositions which, solely because of their intangible nature and lack of measurability, have never achieved formal scientific recognition. The lack of formal recognition has created an intellectual barrier—an artificial impediment to crediting the actuality of known LIFE-attributes. The more remarkable manifestations of these problematic features tend to be seen as mere curiosities. (For instance, startling demonstrations of intelligence in lower animals—even plants, which show forms of intelligence that bypass consciousness of self and the need for a centralized brain). Moreover, these distinguishing life-features are precisely what gives the phenomenon in its exclusive status—and are the cause of our seeming inability to fully embrace LIFE’s end-directed agency.

            One such feature of LIFE that has come to impress me almost as much as its diversity and complexity is its omnipresence. Another is LIFE‘s unshakable tenacity. 

We’ll never know how long it took living matter, after it got started, to spread across the entire globe. But every environmental setting one can imagine had probably been colonized tens of millions of years ago. Note the use of the word “setting.” Location does not an ecosystem make. LIFE alters environments in ways that gradually make them better suited to the needs of their inhabitants. Through time, growing assemblages of organisms collectively modified their surroundings, creating new habitats. Novel ecological niches opened for business. Distinct ecosystems were fashioned, forever to be in a state of flux. Much later, when humans appeared and our activities began to alter existing habitats and create new niches, these too were quickly occupied. Even our dwelling places become ecosystems—home to a surprising array of organisms, the bulk of which go unnoticed.

Living matter is found everywhere, in any environment that’s not too hot or too cold to halt key physiological processes and any environment with at least some available water. These appear to be LIFE’s only limiting factors. Thus we find both plants and animals surviving in the hottest of deserts, where summer ground temperatures can almost boil water. Certain archaeans produce sulfuric acid as waste and subsist in concentrations as acidic as car battery fluid. Algae grow in concentrated salty brine held in channels within polar sea ice at below-freezing temperatures. The photosynthetic algae, which take advantage of whatever sunlight penetrates the ice floes, are food to larval polychaete worms, copepods, and crustaceans. Even more astonishing, a minute species of bacteria-eating nematode worm was found 3.5 kilometers below Earth’s surface living within flooded pore spaces in fractured rock in a South African gold mine at temperatures of almost 50°C (nearly 120°F).  

Certain deep-water microbes not only survive but flourish at fantastic pressures and in water well above boiling point. These single-celled organisms are the foundation for entire biological webs that thrive around deep-sea thermal vents called black smokers, where mineral-laden water jets from the seafloor thousands of meters beneath the surface. In a similar vein, there’s an as-yet poorly understood world of mostly anaerobic varieties of bacteria and archaea living within pores between mineral grains inside crustal rock, deep beneath Earth’s surface (and under seafloors as well). Cornell astrophysicist Thomas Gold put it succinctly: “Microbial life exists in all the locations where microbes can survive.” Gold, a daring thinker who made scientific contributions to many fields, speculated in a 1992 paper that the subterranean fauna’s biomass may equal what lives above ground. By one recent estimate based on a decade long world-wide inventory, the subterranean biomass may amount to half of what exists on Earth. On a slightly different note: as further proof of the powers of organic evolution, recent human activity has led to our planet being graced with new bacterial forms capable of metabolizing such unlikely substances as concrete and byproducts of nylon production. Another newcomer subsists in the cooling tanks housing spent radioactive fuel rods. (Hopefully, the proper authorities are keeping a close eye on these developments.)

Pervasive ecological degradation has led to large numbers of people becoming aware of the delicate balance being precariously maintained in so many once-healthy environments. As a result, viewing LIFE as a tenacious and virtually unstoppable “force of nature” is not presently being emphasized so much as the fragility of vulnerable ecosystems. But, for me, an acute awareness of LIFE’s resilience and tenacity took on real meaning thanks to one particularly vivid lesson. 

 

··•·•·•·•·•·•··

 

Wherever I’ve lived, shelves and windowsills end up as depositories for what I call “nature trinkets.” Lying atop my bookcase at this particular time were a typical assortment of pebbles, crystals, bones, seed pods, feathers, and pieces of weathered wood. One day, on a walk with friends, we were discussing the native peoples who had formerly lived in the region. I pointed out a plant, a type of wild lily, telling my companions that its starchy bulbs had once been an important food source. Using a flat rock I dug one up to demonstrate how difficult and time-consuming it would be to collect the bulbs in quantity. The tuber looked like a marble-sized onion, with the same burnished copper-colored skin…a “shiny object,” which also had the ineffable appeal of a dainty miniature. So I pocketed the little onion look-alike. And onto the top of my bookcase it went. 

In time the little brown marble shrank somewhat and grew dusty. In tidying it up, the outer layer of its papery skin flaked off, revealing a fresh-looking but slightly diminished bulb. Months later, I repeated this gesture out of respect. And, again, there was a glossy-skinned micro-onion inside, still firm and hale. Months went by. I decided to move to a new place and, while boxing all my delicate nature trinkets, was stunned to find a green and glistening shoot protruding from the shriveled little bulb’s tip. Something had triggered this do-or-die effort and it had sprouted—after resting on top of my bookcase for two…and a half…years. I was moved close to tears, having been granted a new appreciation for just how resolute and fiercely tenacious living things can be. Though it may sound trivial in the telling, for me this was a genuinely life-changing revelation, a direct link to my decision to write this book. 

 

··•·•·•·•·•·•··

 

Collectively, LIFE possesses an enduring vigor, having survived at least six major mass-extinction events (the latest of which, human-caused, is currently in full swing) along with perhaps nine other garden-variety calamities since the Cambrian era. The result of these past upheavals was, in each instance, a dynamic resurgence marked by considerable evolutionary diversification among the survivors thanks to wide-open, uninhabited territories with niches just waiting to be filled. Both terrestrial and aquatic organisms rebounded after each disaster, with forms both old and new rising to the new day. Take the mass extinction known as the end-Cretaceous event, which occurred around 66 Ma: caused by a sizeable asteroid strike and exacerbated by other factors, the end-Cretaceous event resulted in the extermination of all large animals and perhaps two-thirds of all species. Earth’s entire non-avian dinosaur fauna’s swift disappearance following the catastrophic episode set in motion the rise of mammals (which, in due course, led to the appearance of mankind). Seen from this big-picture perspective, mass extinctions take on new significance—global cataclysm as opportunity for rebirth and renewal. Extinctions impart an evolutionary blank slate, a cleansed and refreshed world presenting endless opportunities.

Perhaps the single most important clue in attempting to understand the nature of LIFE is how long it took to become established on Earth. By all appearances, it sprang up on our planet with surprising ease. If so, this one fact may have more to say about LIFE than all the (so far) fruitless conjecture about how LIFEarose in the first place. The importance of this key point makes it worth looking into in some detail.

Geomorphologists have settled on a figure 4.57 billion years for Earth’s age, defined as the point at which its formation was mostly complete—around one hundred million years after the collapse of the giant molecular cloud that led to the creation of our solar system. (For perspective, Jupiter took shape much earlier—possibly within the first ten million years.) For its first five-hundred million years, our young planet was incessantly bombarded by debris left over from planetary formation while simultaneously being wracked by widespread volcanic eruptions. Until quite recently, this so-called Hadean Era was presumed too inhospitable for life to emerge. Almost all early surface material has subsequently been obliterated so there’s very little remaining evidence from that time to reveal what conditions were like and even fewer hints as to when life might have first appeared. 

No surface rock has been preserved from the first 500+ Ma of our planet’s history. Since the rock record at present reaches no further, filling in the story of Earth’s early history is made possible only through analyzing remarkably stable mineral fragments—minute but extremely durable crystals of zircon (ZrSiO). These microscopic silicate crystals, almost as hard as diamond but tougher, originally formed in even more ancient rock but are now preserved in somewhat younger sedimentary deposits derived from the older material. The oldest surviving zircons are found in Western Australia, reliably dated at 4.4 billion years.

A search for the earliest evidence of life has been ongoing for several decades, thanks to advances in radiometric dating technologies. Peer-reviewed journal reports continually push back the date. And every year or so one of these reports is called into question, refuted, or gains further support in a model demonstration of the stepwise advancement of scientific knowledge.

The earliest indirect evidence of life—what is known as a “biosignature”—came in 2015 when University of California researchers identified 4.1 billion year old graphite inclusions within a 3.8 billion year old zircon from the Jack Hills of Western Australia. This minute zircon, smaller than the period at the end of this sentence, contained graphite inclusions with a high ratio of ¹²C relative to ¹³C (a higher fraction of carbon’s lighter isotope being a characteristic feature of biological carbon assimilation through photosynthetic activity). The earliest undisputed evidence of life, reported in 2017, comes from microfossils found in 3.5 billion year old Australian Apex chert derived from hydrothermal vent deposits. Even more tantalizing: published results from another study released around the same time present evidence of fossilized microorganisms in rock at least 3.8 (but possibly as much as 4.3) billion year old—also putative hydrothermal vent deposits from a remote area in northern Quebec. Like the Apex chert, these microscopic fossils consist of “structures [that] occur as micrometre-scale haematite tubes and filaments with morphologies and mineral assemblages similar to those of filamentous microbes from modern hydrothermal vent precipitates.” Time will tell if any of these contenders for most-ancient life prove to be legitimate.

Further complicating matters: recent studies call into question the severity of the Late Heavy Bombardment, which peaked at roughly around 700 Ma after the solar system’s formation. A new theory holds that, while the episode may have taken place as conjectured, significant portions of Earth’s crust had not melted and large bodies of water likely remained on Earth’s surface (that is, never boiled away completely). This supposition is based on the fact that zircons form in several ways, all of them involving water-based chemistry. Zircons are ubiquitous in granites, which make up the bulk of continental crustal rock. The presence of these ancient crystals signifies there was water on the planet’s surface soon after Earth took shape and global conditions that were far milder than has long been assumed, a scenario known as the Cool Early Earth theory.

Where does all this leave us?

If life existed on Earth 4.1 billion years ago, its commencement predated the Late Heavy Bombardment by at least 200 million years. A recent study involving extensive computer modeling indicates that, under even the heaviest conceivable bombardment, Earth’s surface would never have melted entirely. The study concludes that heat tolerant microbes living in the vicinity of underwater hydrothermal vent systems could have survived the heaviest periods of bombardment. The 3.5 billion year old microfossils found in the Australian cherts lived in such environments. Analysis of their remnants, based on different carbon isotope ratios, shows the presence of five different taxa that employed several different metabolic strategies—indicative of a diverse symbiotic microbial community that had originated much earlier.

If the microfossils from northeastern Canada and reported in 2017 (reputedly at least 3.8 billion years old) prove to be closer to the upper age limit of 4.3 billion: they, too, would have arisen much earlier and had time to evolve from more primitive forbears. If this figure is substantiated, it means that life in fact arose almost as soon as physically possible—only two or three hundred million years after the Earth formed.                     

So, what might all this have to say about LIFE’s fundamental nature?

Asked to speculate on how long it took life to originate, Stanley Miller (of the Miller–Urey Experiments, Chapter Eighteen) once suggested that “a decade is probably too short, and so is a century. But ten- or a hundred thousand years seems okay, and if you can’t do it in a million years, you probably can’t do it at all.” How Miller arrived at these conclusions is interesting, given the complete lack of any solid evidence for the origin of life despite his many years of looking for an answer to the question

But now, shifting to new themes…it’s time to review where mankind and our views about LIFE fit into the bigger picture.

 

       ©2020 Tim Forsell                                                                                     25 Oct 2020

 

 




Friday, October 23, 2020

Piute Log...Dia de los Muertos 1991

 Thank goodness, I never killed a horse. There were any number of times when I could have but my luck held out. These excerpts recount a period when I had two dead horses on my hands that I was more or less “monitoring.” One was struck by lightning, the other suffered a freak accident. The day in question seemed to have a real death-theme. (Some of my descriptions might be a little too vivid for the squeamish.) To me, it was all part of the Big Circle. ◦◦◦◦◦ More words of explanation: around this time, the upper West Walker was still part of a long-time cattle grazing allotment, the permit held by a local ranch family. When the cows were around, the fenced “administrative” pasture at Piute would routinely get broken into—calves would sneak through the wires of my broken-down drift fences and their moms would crash through after them. Or backpackers would leave one of the gates open. My grass was greener, apparently. It was tedious coming home to find cows in my yard. ◦◦◦◦◦ Reference to Mike and Rene: this couple from Nevada were my “best customers.” I’d see them multiple times each season and we’d become friends, would share meals. Mike was a real character: former packer, nonstop talker, somewhat notorious for losing livestock in the backcountry. Losing four-legged animals in the mountains is terribly easy, always an embarrassment if someone else finds them before you do. (Mike’s lost horses were finally located a couple of weeks later, miles from where they’d gone missing.)◦◦◦◦◦ “Hobby-horsers” is a mildly derisive term for a particular breed of private stock users—generally wealthy people who are inexperienced and/or clueless. As a user-group, hobby-horsers and their animals do more damage and commit more eco-crimes than any other category of wilderness visitors, mostly out of sheer ignorance and because their equally inexperienced animals are completely freaked-out by being in unfamiliar situations. Whenever I met these folks I’d spend a lot of time trying to educate them. Over the years, I saw that the added effort really paid off. 

13 Aug (Mon)    ◦◦◦◦◦  Back from The Valley and back to work, heading into Piute. Greta packing the trail-crew into their camp at Fremont junction today and she asked for help. Well of course. Both of us had things to take care of first so it was almost noon before we were out at the barn saddling up and gathering tack. Crew already waiting at the pack station with their stuff so we hustled out there. Got everything of theirs loaded onto five animals and finally achieved escape velocity. ◦◦◦◦◦ Met some hobby-horsers just past Lane Lake—a couple recently moved to the area (Carson City) who plan to visit on a regular basis. Gave them a good talking to and marked the best stock camps on their map. They were appreciative and seemed “okay.” We’ll see. With hobby-horsers you never know—even if their gear isn’t all shiny & new and they’re not riding Appaloosas and seem to know what they’re doing. Sometimes they  surprise me, in a good way. ◦◦◦◦◦ To the camp way past quittin’ time, dropped loads and pressed on. In Lower Piute, ran up on a Scout leader who’d somehow gotten separated from his troop and was now in the lost-column. Nice fella, surprisingly unperturbed, just then setting up his tent—literally right by the trail. With incisive questioning I finally figured out where his group were located (he couldn’t recall the lake’s name) leaving him much relieved. ◦◦◦◦◦ Home at last, found two messages pinned to the cabin door: one from the guy camped with his family up at the head of the meadow. Something about a dead horse and a “please advise.” The other was a crumpled note from Mike Vidal, delivered by some backpacker apparently. He and Rene were at Tilden Lake [fifteen miles away, in Yosemite N.P.] and had lost two of their horses. Mike! I almost never find notes left on my door…only a few times, total. Today, two. And this: when I arrived there were twenty-plus cows grazing inside the back drift fence. Shooed ‘em out Rawhide-style—that is, at a gallop, hyah-hyah!ing at the top of my lungs. It worked. Red thought I’d lost my mind. Pies all over…looked like they’d been in for a couple of days. Sigh. Cow pies in the yard. Pies right in front of the porch step. (At least no pies on the porch.)                                      

→ 17 visitors            → 10½ miles    

 

14 Aug (Wed)     While I was over in Yosemite my meadow turned to gold. In just those few days of being gone, Upper Piute went from green-tinged-by-gold to gold-tinged-by-green. Always happens around this time of year: I gaze out from the porch, hardly able to remember when it was that pure, raging emerald-green green of EarlyJune. Definitely counts as one of those poignant moments that happen every season, just the one time. (There are others, others like it, all of them bittersweet.) ◦◦◦◦◦ After breakfast, saddled Red and went to visit the dead-horse people. They were just getting ready to eat themselves, smell of frying bacon drifting through the trees so good. Dieter took me over and introduced me to the victim, clearly visible under a blue tarp not fifty yards from camp. Here’s the story: They got packed in last week and brought the one horse to ride—their own, not the pack station’s. Seems they were breaking this ten-year-old mare to picket off a front leg. She didn’t like it at all and wigged out, lunging against the picket line until she somehow got flipped over, landing on her hip. They saw this from camp and actually heard something snap. The poor mare was in agony, grunting they said, and broke into a foamy sweat. She got stood up, leg dangling useless, quivering. When Dieter tried to lead her farther away from the river she almost fell so he put her down on the spot with a pistol he‘d brought along for just such an emergency. A “bad scene,” as we say in the business. I told them how things stood: Your property—your responsibility…if necessary, we can take care of it, will bill you, et cet. Totally winging it…I had no idea how such things get handled or even what would happen to the corpse. (Bart sez he had to buck up a mule with a chainsaw one time….the Park Service uses dynamite.) Dieter agreeable to the terms, such as they were. ◦◦◦◦◦ Then, to make this morning even more tremendous, one of their boys told me he’d found a dead deer in the river. “Right over there,” he pointed. When-it-rains-it-pours syndrome! Sure ‘nuf, just a bit down-meadow from their camp there’s a spotted fawn, couple of feet under, tangled in the branches of a submerged snag. Must’ve got swept away following mom across the river. But it sure was dead, with a veil of green algae and skin starting to peel off the face. This being my drinking water supply I just sighed, rolled sleeves up, took off boots, waded in and drug the thing out. Weighed maybe twenty pounds, wet. Holding the dripping remains by one front leg at arm’s length, I carried it up the hill aways to dump behind a log or boulder. Only got twenty yards before Bambi just slipped out of my hand. That is, its leg slid through a tube of sloughing skin and the carcass hit dirt with a soggy thud, leaving me (a moderately squeamish child of the suburbs) standing there breathing through my mouth with a handful of slimy fawn skin which I flung away in a hurry. Left the corpse where it fell. No way am I gonna pick that thing up again, unh-uh! When I looked down and saw my dominant hand covered with greenish-brown, slimy fawn-skin and got a fat whiff of that soul-piercing stench of death, I felt the proverbial lump rise in my throat. First time ever. An apt expression…now I know. This was for sure the closest I’ve come to hurling out of sheer revulsion, the way people are always doing in movies. ◦◦◦◦◦ Back in camp, Dieter’s wife handed me the high-line I’d loaned them, neatly coiled. Dieter said he’d bring a rope next time…told me he’d read the Backcountry Horseman’s booklet I gave him last week and got a lot out of it. This one’s coming along well. (Mmm…aside from leaving behind an equine stiff.) I’ll never know for sure whether they blew it or if it was just one of those things. ◦◦◦◦◦ Stopped at the cabin for dry pants and to try and wash that gawd-awful stench off my hand. Ivory soap didn’t begin to cut it so I went out in the yard and scrubbed my hands vigorously with dirt, then tried again with dish detergent. Not quite gone but oh well. ◦◦◦◦◦ Rode down-canyon and stopped by Doc’s camp to say hi. (He was up for a couple of days doing trailwork and invited me for tea tonight.) Down in Lower Piute, was surprised to see my lost Scoutmaster still in his emergency bivouac, talking with compatriots. Apparently several groups of scouts were out looking for him. It was ten a.m. and he still had his tent up! Would have expected the guy to be off at dawn—to maybe not prolong his troop’s worry at the very least. Go figger. But we had a nice chat anyway and I gave them some standard tips for Boyscout troops (Dig a latrine!) and explained the cow situation. ◦◦◦◦◦ Headed for Long Lakes where I cleaned up a brand-new camp built on a recently cleared, hardened site. The last occupants had done some major trenching around their big tents, excavations that unearthed a bunch of broken glass and bits of rusty cans from days of yore. They also left behind two large cardboard boxes (???!!). Filled in trenches, loaded my trash sack, and burned boxes in a nearby camp’s firepit. Now, I’ve offered “commentary” on such matters many times in this here log, clearly just venting steam. But answer me this: Why is it that NO ONE…EVER…fills in their tent trenches before they leave? I can’t recall seeing where someone has filled in their damn trenches—not once. Why is that? WHY?! (Phew. I feel better.) ◦◦◦◦◦ Rode the PCT to Walker Meadows. This was a death-themed day, it seems. Rode over to check on my (other) horse carcass and was stunned to find it gone! All that was left was a brown patch in the still-green meadow though the place stunk pretty bad. Under nearby trees I found the skull and a few gnawed bones. (Figure these had been drug off by coyotes.) Amazing! Ma Nature sure takes care of business! Scattered all around were piles of bear poop. This unlucky horse was struck during that lightning storm on I think 19 July. First saw it seven days later, bloated but almost intact. Less than three weeks gone by and the whole thing’s already been recycled; nothing left but bones, some excrement, and localized stench. ◦◦◦◦◦ Down to the trailcrew camp for a short visit. Telling them about my latest horse fatality, several of the crewfolk got down on me for being not sufficiently hard-core with Dieter. And maybe they’re right. But these guys have no empathy whatsoever for the visitors. With that smug, superior attitude of theirs, pretty much all the people who come back here are jerks and idiots. And yet all three of those kids have aspirations of becoming rangers. But hey: unless they grow up and modify their attitudes toward their fellows they’ll never make it in ranger-world…would continually be frustrated and despise the people they’re supposed to be serving. They don’t seem to grasp the fundamental truth that humans, by definition, trend toward the ignorant & lazy & careless end of the spectrum. This includes them and definitely me, too. In many ways, I’m a complete idiot! Many! The only way to reach people and modify behavior is with compassion and understanding—one of the most important lessons Lorenzo left me with. Yeah, I’m continuously disappointed and frustrated by things the visitors do. (See earlier tirade.) But you have to just suck it up and carry on…learn how to let it all go. In the end, it’s good for people to come to the mountains. It does them good. This is their land, too. End of second rant. ◦◦◦◦◦ Finally got to meet Jan and Stan Hunewill, owners of the Hunewill Ranch down in Bridgeport Valley. Been hearing about these folks since I first arrived. Stan is, what? fourth generation? Pioneer family, name on maps forevermore, a family that’s now part of the landscape. I’ve wondered what it must feel like to have that long-time, deep-in-the-bone connection to place. It was obvious right off that these are two fine specimens of humanity…top shelf. I’ve only ever heard nice things said about them, which is rare. They were on vacation with friends, everybody leading llamas, everybody looking pretty darn happy. Redtop got his first introduction to the South Americans and he reacted quite well (all things considered) to a head-on meeting with hideous, long-necked space-aliens. He acted terrified but also seemed curious—which, I thought, was a lot better than only being terrified. Oh, they must look horrible through his eyes! Got a laugh out of the whole group when I remarked: “Y’know how in sci-fi movies, the scariest monsters are the ones that look vaguely humanoid.” ◦◦◦◦◦ Home at a reasonable hour. Had a quick dinner, then walked down to Doc’s camp with Rip. Got there before sunset. Doc was just sitting down to a panful of some typical Doc-stew—red beans with chunks of Spam and onion, looked like. Mugsy enjoyed his share with some kibble mixed in. We sat around a tiny Doc-fire and gossiped while Rip the shadow-cat wove in and out of the dim firelight, slinking around. Doc got a kick out of my day’s happenings. ◦◦◦◦◦ Walked home in significant darkness, sky half-cloudy half-starry. It was humid and unusually warm with a tremendous display of lightning going on to the east and more intensely to the north, flash after flash, too far away to hear thunder. Weird weather. No rain.

 

→  31 visitors            →  16½  miles           →  1 firepit            →  5 lbs trash

 

Six days later:     20 Aug (Tue) ◦◦◦◦◦ Rode back to Piute tired and happy and relieved to be going home. [I’d been in the trailcrew camp working with them for several days while the cabin was occupied by Forest Service people.] Met two backpackers who’d passed by after the FS folks left. They saw a bear in the yard—bear with a white chest. I miss all the good stuff! Sounded like the bear I chased off two years ago. Prob’ly the one that ransacked the cabin in ’87. Guessing it’s here to feast on horseflesh. Hope so. ◦◦◦◦◦ Got unpacked. Happy horses home at last, grazing merrily in the hollows where the grass and sedges are still green. Cow bells ringing out back, all the world at peace. Took my river bath. Flies horrible all of a sudden—can’t help but think they’re connected to the not-so-fresh carcass less than a mile from here. So, after my dip, Rip and I went to check on the decay process. ◦◦◦◦◦ Started smelling that smell a hundred yards off. Cat not exactly...afraid. But wary. Ursa had already gotten into it—hole in the neck, belly skin ripped off revealing guts. One hind leg ripped off entirely. Rustling sound of a hundred thousand maggots prominent in the otherwise silence. Didn’t stink too bad. Claw marks on the hide and that dreadful, leering, toothy death-grin. I then did something strange but very Tim-like…sort of a science experiment, actually…an investigation into feline behavioral psychology. What I did was toss my cat onto the horse’s back, to see how he’d react and also gauge by the sound produced the carcass’ internal condition. Result of experiment: Rip bounced off just like I’d tossed him on a hot stovetop. And the carcass sounded as if it were mostly hollow, covered with brittle parchment. The process of decay is well advanced and in a couple of weeks this horse should be mostly back in the system. Walked home by moonlight.

 

Four days later:     24 Aug (Sat) ◦◦◦◦◦ Still light after dinner so I strolled up to “Deadhorse Meadow.” Amazed to find the carcass down to mostly bones already, a seething pool of maggots filling the body cavity, rustling feverishly in the last light. An unforgettable sound. It didn’t even smell that much. Well, that is, until you get up close. ◦◦◦◦◦

 

26 Aug (Mon)     ◦◦◦◦◦ Dropped down a gulley back into Piute Meadows. Visited the horse remnants, now a stringy pile of bones dragged off under some trees. Not much left but head and legs and a few thousand fly larvae. A hoof lying nearby, separated from the leg bones cleanly. It looked like a big hunk of yellowish plastic. It’s been two weeks, today, since the horse breathed its last. Thanks to maggots and bears, with a little help from coyotes and beetles, the job was completed in record time and well under budget. Didn’t need a chainsaw nor dynamite neither! It’s been very interesting and informative to watch the whole process. Decomposition makes the world go ‘round. ◦◦◦◦◦

 

Seventeen days later:     12 Sep (Thu)     ◦◦◦◦◦ Checked out the carcass, now reduced to a pile of bones and skin. Rip warily approached on his own, only mildly interested after his several visits. But he took some long, wrinkled-nose sniffs. Clearly not offended by the smell. I watched his face and body-language and wondered what he was experiencing. No idea. Not a clue. ◦◦◦◦◦

 

 

        ©2020 Tim Forsell                                                                          24 Oct 2020