Friday, May 17, 2019

Piute Log...Bear in the Cabin (Again) 1991

This, the last of a long season—the only one where I was kept on into November. That year, in order to minimize the time seasonals would be eligible for unemployment compensation, the Forest Service kept us rangers working part time for an extra month. (It was a complete waste of everybody’s time and they never tried it again.)◦◦◦◦◦About the several references to dead horses in this entry: this summer was notable for my having to deal with two of them, both owned by private stock-users, both died by accident. One was hit by lightning and the other fell and broke its hip. The latter was just up at the head of the uppermost Piute Meadow, less than a mile from the cabin, and over the course of only a few weeks I got to observe the fascinating process of its reduction to scattered bones. More on that later….
1 Nov (Fri)     Heading straight back to Piute. Up before dawn. 15° outside, probably about 20° in the camper. One last shower at Wheeler in the rusty shower with paint flaking down the drain. Wolfed toast and eggs while finishing final clean-up of the guard station. Since I’ve been working in Bridgeport it’s not been left so neat’n’tidy at season’s end. Kinda pointless seeing as how next spring there’ll be a liberal scattering of mouse turds on every surface flat enough they won’t slide off. ◦◦◦◦◦ Headed for town. A clear and delightfully shiny autumn day of the super-crisp variety. Snow quickly melting up the south-facing mountain flanks but there to stay in the high, shady places. Bought food in town, said goodbyes to a few folks I won’t likely see again and drove my truck to the barn to pack. It was sunny and warm there with leaves sifting down from the cottonwoods and blowing around in circles in that little lee zone by the corral. Caught Becky easy and she loaded in the stock truck first try! She’s getting better! Maybe! ◦◦◦◦◦ At the pack station, Bart drove in as I was unloading the stock. I went over to say goodbye and thanks-for-everything just before riding. He was busy packing up leftover food and, like Doc gets, seemed preoccupied and looked a little grumpy so I didn’t try to chat. His only comment worth mentioning was, “You guys sure are gluttons for punishment” after I told him I’d be up at Piute for five days. Told Bart, “I’m not worried about staying warm at the cabin; I’m more concerned about staying warm after I leave.” And then it was “Have a good winter!”s—that all-purpose parting expression us seasonal workers give and receive. ◦◦◦◦◦ Lined em’ out, necked em’ up, and up the trail went we. Horses balky at weird-looking, frozen-over Leavitt Creek crossing but Leavitt Meadows proper was already almost entirely snow-free. A couple of aspen clones at the head of the meadow still totally green and quaking away while other patches were almost bare-nekkid. The snowy mountains gorgeous and foreboding. I’ve never seen them clothed thus. Pure romance. Had that old feeling from early mountaineering days of Nobody knows where I am or cares, feeling the uncertainty and actual danger (mostly on account of the stock, visualizing snowdrifts and hidden slickrock ahead). Rode right into it with eyes wide open. Bart didn’t have much advice to offer aside from two things: to not get off and walk ahead, leading them through the tough spots since, “When you’re walking rather than riding you’re more likely to get stomped if they flounder. That is, if you don’t fall off and get crushed. Other than that, just try to stay on the trail.” ◦◦◦◦◦ The snow started in earnest once we hit the first fir forest. No surprise, there—it’s so densely timbered. Even in midsummer, only the odd shaft of sunlight picks its way through to the ground. And so began a great lesson: I had no trouble staying on the trail because it was already well-tracked. No Vibram®sole prints though—only hoofies and toe-pads. ◦◦◦◦◦ All the four-footers are leaving the mountains, bailing out. Even the birds mostly gone, or so it seemed. Heard not a chickadee nor junco nor solitaire on the way in while I’d seen literally hundredsof robins—they were everywhere—around Leavitt campground yesterday. And the trail was obvious thanks to the prints of bear and deer and coyote all mixed together. None of their usual meanderings through the timber on the hillsides or at least well off the trail; it was time to leave and all the migrating animals had done just that. They jumped on the freeway. None of these tracks were fresh—everybody’d left yesterday or in the night. The mountains had emptied of life, just like that. I could feel the silence. Saw only the tracks of overwintering chickarees bounding between trees to show that anybody had stuck around. It was a stunning realization (for me) to see how the mountains shut down for business at the end of the season—had no idea it was like this. And if I were on the natural rhythm of things I’d be gone, too. It was especially striking to see the big prints showing Ursa marching purposefully through the now-sunken snow on the trail, to imagine those great big hairy slobbering goof-offs hiking out of the mountains heading who-knows-where. ◦◦◦◦◦ Stayed warm and the stock did fine. Watched the trail like townfolks watch TV. One memorable scene: heading up the ’83 reroute before the Long Canyon junction, where all the wild critters had used the old trail. Ranger in leather chaps and green watch cap and Filson wool coat riding big white horse and leading his string up a snow-filled draw, no sign of a trail through unblemished snow concealing boulders and slickrock. My first time riding through virgin snow-covered land. Western-style romance, for sure. ◦◦◦◦◦ Rode the last few miles after the sun was down. Sure getting dark early. Snow got noticeably thicker in the last mile and thicker yet by the time we reached Upper Piute. I guess the valley of the upper meadows is a big bowl that storms like this one just sit in and dump. (I’ve often wondered how much snow Piute gets in winter.) At the gate, had some trouble pulling the thing out of the drifted, crusty snow. (Laid it on the ground when I left and it was completely buried.) ◦◦◦◦◦ I’d started having bear-in-cabin thoughts the first time I saw those tracks down in the fir forest—thinking about how those guys were all leaving and wondered if one or two had stopped by the cabin first. All that grain….didn’t close the metal door. By the time we hit Fremont junction, seeing more tracks on the trail, was thinking I’d likely had a visit and started steeling myself. Then, riding the last bit to the cabin past the gate and seeing those big prints crisscrossing the meadow, was certain of it. ◦◦◦◦◦ Tied the horses to the hitch rail in eight solid inches (most people would call it a foot without thinking twice) and headed with trepidation to the porch in waning light. But enough light left to detect general pandemonium and disorder. The porch had been turned upside down and shaken—plastic trashcans full of empty feed sacks emptied, sacks strewn, along with horse tack and sundry porch-inhabiting items. The grain bin was severely chewed-upon and now empty. Worst of all, in the almost-dark, saw that the bottom panel of the wooden door had been chomped through and bashed in: Bear in the cabin. [There was an outer, grated-metal, “bear-proof” door that I usually left open while the cabin was occupied.] “Ohhh, well,” I sighed out loud. And, Shoulda knowed better, fool, said the older and wiser voice in my head. ◦◦◦◦◦ Left my cohorts steaming (yes, steaming) at the hitchrail and went in to further assess damages. It was pretty much dark inside. I was met immediately by the overturned, formerly full of grain fifty-gallon drum on the floor with contents spread wide and far. Felt for the matches (container knocked over and matches scattered), all the while sighing inside with that peculiar sorrowful resignation. Hard to describe the anticipation/dread I was feeling while lighting the lantern—brain a-whirl, inventorying possible losses with lightning speed. When the Coleman flared to life I was presented with a scene both dismaying and cause for much relief. ◦◦◦◦◦ Taking stock: Bed and bookshelves were untouched. Unpawed. Phew. That meant a less-than-generalized mayhem. Grain everywhere and a sack from the three-high stack on the floor torn open and eaten-on. Cool-pantry open and contents obviously destroyed. Ice chest open and on its side, emptied but inexplicably not perforated. Tall cabinet undisturbed! No doors ripped off anything à la 1987. Several large Ursa-turds on the floor, half-frozen, ewww. (They looked like big wads of granola mixed with molasses.) A mess of slimy gunk all over the other bunk’s mattress. ◦◦◦◦◦ Got the other lantern lit and within minutes knew I’d gotten off easy this time around. Nothing really important appeared to be broken or mangled aside from the door and the grain bin on the porch so I carried a lantern out and unsaddled the boys and girly-mule. Gave them a load of [alfalfa] pellets poured into snow-filled mangers. ◦◦◦◦◦ Wedged the splintered bottom panel of the door back in as best I could and started a fire. [This was a piece of half-inch plywood that replaced the original, bear-destroyed lower door panel.] Taped the giant hole in it shut with duct-tape. (Bear had initially “widened” the cat door before knocking the whole thing in.) Right off I scooped up the bear poop with the dust pan and tossed it over the porch railing, then lit a last stick of incense saved, I guess, for just such an occasion. Ladled grain back into the metal drum with the dust pan—a handy tool!—and raked up the junk. Jim D’s cute tin that held my tea bags was a loss but my good ceramic mug I found laying on the table on its broad mouth, fallen from the shelf above but—miraculously—unbroken. (It has a really delicate, thin rim for a hand-made mug.) The most significant damage was in the back corner where the contents of ice chest, cool-pantry, and “free food and stuff” box had been mauled and/or eaten. (I liked the fact that the “free food and stuff” box took the worst hit.) Some of the ice chest stuff was uneaten and salvageable but the veggies were frozen; from the cool-pantry my dried apricots and peanut butter were obviously missing but other things undefiled. The bear even figured out the door latch instead of just ripping the thing off its hinges! Over all, I was extremely pleased, especially after I’d found my logs undamaged and papers scattered on the floor but okay. A very thoughtful and considerate bear…. ◦◦◦◦◦ I’d had toast and eggs for breakfast and a candy bar and chips for lunch. Starved. It was well-dark and I was just wrapping my head around the idea of dinner after final sweep-up. But before chow prep, took a dose of grain out to the horses and mule. When I got to the round corral my flashlight beam revealed a scene that froze me into my already frozen tracks: right in front of the corral, Zeke was lying on his side, ribs heaving, steaming, and soaked in sweat. Please, oh noooo…not this!◦◦◦◦◦ Even with my extremely limited knowledge of equine medicine, I recognized symptoms of colic. Twisted gut. Agony…can cause death, a bad death.Why now? What to do?All these things in my brain in an instant, all together. The uncertainty, the remoteness, the snow, dark dark night. This was one of those moments when you really get that you’re truly on your own in this world. I had just been starting to think about dinner and it was cold & dark and just so quickly my agenda changed. ◦◦◦◦◦ Walked back to the cabin in a daze, an up-against-the-wall kinda daze. Went for my files and pulled out a piece I’d saved from packing school, an article about equine colic written specifically for backcountry stock-users. I skimmed it and saw right off that my diagnosis was correct. There were several scenarios and one fit this situation perfectly: Horse gets colicky after a day on the trail, situation remote, no possibility of evacuation. Medical facilities minimal.It said to administer painkillers and, basically, to not waste time worrying because nature would take its course. ◦◦◦◦◦ Well, fortunately, I had a small vial of Banamine [equine painkiller] on hand so I shot Zeke up with 12cc, the prescribed dose for a horse his size. He’d scrambled to his feet by the time I went back out there and was standing, sweat-soaked and steaming and quivering all over, pawing at a rock incessantly and tossing his head towards his gut—in obvious distress, poor fella. My heart went out to this horse I feel no fondness for whatsoever. I rammed that thick-gauge needle into his thigh, pushed in the plunger, and went back to make supper and try not to think about him. Left him untied as per the article’s advice. He wasn’t “thrashing” so I wasn’t thinking about having to kill him with a Pulaski. (Not yet, ulp.) I certainly did have visions of a dead horse to deal with in the morning. Another one. And having to call in on the radio. ◦◦◦◦◦ All this made for a rather anxious dinner at eight (felt like a July ten o’clock) of canned soup and crackers. Didn’t have the attention or energy left to make a meal. Plus it was cold and the porch was covered with snow and a bear had been in the cabin and I had no kitties and it was a loooong day. Kept listening for sounds of horse-anguish. Went out later and Zeke was up and eating pellets, still sweating and steaming and quivering but eating.I could hear gut-rumblings—a good sign. I relaxed. He seemed even better, later, and I stopped thinking about having to deal with yet another dead horse. The stars were blazing in a frigid-looking void, a beautiful night. All’s well in the world and I’m still a lucky dog I guess. 
  
→ no visitors         → 10½ miles        → bear visitation         → sick horse


     ©2019 Tim Forsell                                                                                                                                                 
          17 May 2019                                      

Piute Log...The No-Pants Lady 1990

One of my all-time favorite “visitor contacts.” (Our meager record-keeping consisted, in part, of keeping tallies of individual contacts and numbers of individuals.) Throughout my entire ranger career, it was really unusual to meet a woman hiking alone. In twenty summers, I met probably maybe half a dozen. It was rare to see all-female groups from pairs on up. Hopefully this has changed.
2 Aug (Thu)    ◦◦◦◦◦ No problems going out. Had one fairly amazing viz contact: riding along the shore of Lane Lake—nobody around. But there’s a lady having lunch in the “No Camping Here” site by the edge of the water. She had her pack leaning against the log and was herself sitting on an ensolite pad and leaning back against her pack. I veered off the trail to go talk and she didn’t hear me coming over the roar of her little gas stove til I was 20 feet away. She was startled when she saw me and a little embarrassed because she was pants-less! As soon as this became apparent, I discreetly gazed off into the trees while she hastily put her shorts back on. A “big boned gal,” strawberry blond and muscular, rosy-cheeked; a pleasant, soft voice. She had been on the trail alone since June 15 and most recently had come from Tuolumne Meadows. (She had no permit, she said, because she’d hitched to The Meadows late and the permit booth was closed.) She’d gone out of the mountains several times for supplies and hitched rides to towns and back. Also, she was a couple of days overdue because she’d fallen asleep in the sun one day (with no clothes on, I assume) and had sustained severe burns that had made her really sick. To top it off, this woman is from Manhattan where she’d lived most of her life. She made her living as a roofer (had “done a lot of roofing,” she said, wearily). An amazing woman—would’ve loved to have heard her story. ◦◦◦◦◦


     ©2018 Tim Forsell                                                                                                                                                 
          23 Nov 2018                      

Sunday, May 12, 2019

Piute Log...Hidden Hawks 2001

1 Sep (Sat)     Big day but not a lot to write about. Talked to many visitors, all small groups, some good encounters. The one kinda nifty thing that happened today had to do with a bird’s shadow. A “bird’s shadow”? Hunh!? ◦◦◦◦◦ As a kid I was a pretty serious bird-person (kept lists and records) and, starting when I was ten, frequently walked up into a canyon in the foothills near my home—my first wilderness. One afternoon I was meandering through the coastal sage scrub and scared up a bird. Didn’t even see it but said to myself, “brown towhee.” This is a pretty standard thing with birders—to say a bird’s name in your head whenever you make an ID—and it almost slipped right by me until I noticed that I’d identified this bird by the sound its wing feathers made as they brushed against the chaparral. As it turns out, this innocuous event was somewhat pivotal for me: the first time I truly grokked that we (humans) are capable of amazing perceptivity and, importantly, that we often notice things on a less-than-conscious level. I’d seen and watched literally hundredsof towhees. And, without ever consciously registering the information, knewthe sound their feathers made against the dense brush they inhabit when they light off the ground. And knew, because of the specific habitat, that this was a brown towhee and not its cousin, the rufous-sided, that lived in the slightly more open places along the creek. The lesson was this: We know a lot more than we know we know. ◦◦◦◦◦ Today I had a similar experience. Was just coming out of the fir forest, heading into Porcupine Flats. Up, and to my right, noticed the flickering shadow of a flying bird’s wings cast through layers of tree branches and broken into a thousand pieces. It’s not as if I saw a clearly silhouetted shadow, but had a sense of a strong, rapid wingbeat from a mid-sized bird. Silence. My head-voice said, “Cooper’s hawk,” but then another part of me thought, How the heck can you tell? I rode out of the dense forest just then into the open, scanning but not expecting to see anything. There, overhead, a Cooper’s hawk was circling. And it just happened to be flying around the crown of the grandfather Jeffery pine [largest tree in the West Walker drainage] and just as it disappeared from view a redtail hawk burst out of the top branches. The much smaller accipiter had been harassing it. Had my head tilted way back, watching, holding my hat on my head, mouth gaped open. Neither bird spoke. Neither did I. But was moved by the poetic beauty of the entire event, yet another seemingly staged nature-drama. ◦◦◦◦◦ Rode all the way out to Leavitt Campground then to the trailhead parking lot where I checked the permit books. Chatted with Craig and Dan at the pack station. Craig had a black eye, scrapes, and a visibly swollen jaw. Assumed he’d gotten into a wreck with stock. After a few minutes of smallish talk I finally asked, “Well. What happened to you? Looks like you’ve been in a bar fight.” The bar-fight reference is an old expression used for this exact kinda circumstance: a jive way to pry out the cause of some unexpected, unspecified physical damage to someone’s person. Well, pretty good guess…he hadbeen in a bar fight! Just last night, Craig and a couple of the other packers drove over the hill to Kennedy Meadows Resort. They walked into the tavern right as a brawl commenced and, with the worst kinda luck, Craig strolled right into somebody’s fist. He was knocked out cold (remembered none of this) and came-to at the bottom of a dog pile. Some fun. ◦◦◦◦◦ Headed home. I’d intended to go up to Fremont (talked to five parties, heading there) but spent too much time doling out ranger-lectures today so rode barn-ward instead. This made Red happy. Very clear skies; no smoke.
                        
→  43 visitors            →  500 lbs rock          →  12 lbs trash 
                                                                                                                        
          →  22 miles             another great moonrise


     ©2019 Tim Forsell                                                                                                                                                 

Sunday, April 14, 2019

Piute Log...The Jane Incident 1994

This recounts a legendary event that took place in 1987, the year before I was working out of the cabin full time. Jim Kohman was Piute ranger that season and I was over in Robinson Creek. We’d started out together in 1983 as a two-person contract trailcrew. The drift fences near the cabin (barbwire fences that keep stock from “drifting” away) were in a sad state and our entire wilderness crew—eight of us—rendezvoused at the cabin to erect a new fence across Upper Piute Meadow. It was to be built by-the-book to Forest Service Standards using pressure-treated wooden posts rather than a hodge-podge of steel posts and untreated wooden ones (harvested from the surrounding forest) like the current flimsy enclosure that was falling down in dozens of places. Building materials had already been flown in by helicopter.◦◦◦◦◦The person at the center of this story was a Forest Service employee from the Bridgeport station—a “range con” (job title, short for “range conservationist”) who was new on the district. Jane was powerfully built, self-assured…a “western” sorta gal who knew her way around livestock. In those days, range cons were mostly seasonal workers whose duties included monitoring grazing allotments. Jane was among the last generation of people working in the range division who routinely rode horses and worked outside…even alone. I personally witnessed this noble occupation turn into a desk-bound, computer-centered step on a career ladder. 
11 Sep (Sun)     …packed the horses and headed downcanyon at noon. ◦◦◦◦◦ Along the way, ran into Jane S. and Gary Nelson. Jane used to work here on the district and was a range con back in the 80s and is now, I believe, Range Officer on the Carson District. Gary is a farrier who used to shoe our mules (because no one else would mess with these uncouth ruffians). It looked like Jane and Gary were “friends” but of course I didn’t ask. Good to see them both. Invited them to come for breakfast tomorrow….

12 Sep (Mon)     Jane and Gary didn’t show. Not surprised—it’s a bit too far to walk from their camp and a hassle to saddle up and ride so early. But I would’ve enjoyed spending some time with them. ◦◦◦◦◦ A story: Jane worked here on the district for a couple of years. (1987 and ’88 I believe.) When our whole crew came up to Piute to build the new back fence, August ’87, I was elected to be cook. Jane rode up by herself the day we started work—just for a visit or to help out or do her own thing, I don’t recall. The next morning she went out to catch her horse. Since there was no back fence in place (we’d already taken the old one down), all the horses and mules had wandered and were way up at the head of the meadow. Jane went off to wrangle her pony with a halter and—I noticed—no grain. How and why this whole mess transpired will forever remain a mystery. ◦◦◦◦◦ This is surmise: the stock all saw her coming with a rope but no goodies. Some horses catch easy and don’t require a bribe like ours do. They were having a big party of their own in the lush green grass of Piute Meadows and weren’t interested in being caught if they weren’t at least going to get some candy so they all, including Jane’s ride, started walking away from her. And Jane just strolled along behind; I suppose she thought patience was her best plan and that they’d finally stop and let her capture their visiting friend. Jane kept following and the horses and mules all kept walking. The whole parade got on the Kirkwood trail and stayed on it all the way to the pass (almost two miles). I have little doubt that knavish Bruno the mule was in the lead. What Jane should’ve done, what any seasoned stock user would’ve done in this situation, would be to high-tail it up into the woods at a dead run and try to get in front of the train—at which point they usually surrender. But Jane just kept walking behind them until she’d pushed the lot all the way to Kirkwood Pass. And once at the pass they of course all started running downhill, using gravity to get away from the pesky two-legger. Just before noon, Jane showed up back at the cabin with her halter but otherwise empty-handed. I was in the process of getting lunch ready. Jim and Lorenzo were at the cabin with me when she returned. Jane calmly and matter-of-factly informed us that the horses were gone. All of them, hers and ours. And I will never forget the scene that ensued. ◦◦◦◦◦ Lorenzo blew his stack. I already knew from personal experience that he had a temper but had never before seen him lose it with another human—only with livestock. (Lord knows, if one has a temper, they’ll find a way to unleash it.) The three of us could hardly believe what she’d done, or how blasé she was about it. Lorenzo heated up to his boiling point rapidly—a place from which people with real tempers seem unable to turn back. Both of them started yelling at each other. It quickly became apparent that Jane had a temper of her own. As they got into it, Jim and I retreated into the cabin and stood there listening. And cringing. (I imagined seeing Lorenzo’s eyes bugged out, neck veins bulging, finger pointing, spit flying.) And he spat out these memorable words that will forever be seared into my memory banks: “Why you DIZZY BITCH! You shoulda hustled yer FAT ASS up into the trees and RUN and gotten in front of ‘em!” Oooh. Ow. Jane (sounding red-in-the-face, bulging neck veins, et cetera): “YOU CAN’T TALK TO ME LIKE THAT!” “OH YEAH?!!” And so on, back and forth. Full-on “why-you-oh-yeah” stuff. I wish I could recall more of their, um, exchange. But vividly remember that opening salvo. It went on for awhile…but probably not as long as it seemed. Jim and I were wincing at the verbal blows, looking at each other, grinning nervously. It was pretty ugly. Jane stalked off and didn’t come back. Turns out she went back over Kirkwood Pass down into Buckeye Canyon and bivvied, without food or gear, in the old snow survey cabin before walking out all the way to the Buckeye trailhead the next day—about nine more miles. All she took was her saddle and a bridle, I believe. (Try lugging a saddle eleven or twelve miles sometime and you’ll know what real misery is.) ◦◦◦◦◦ Of course, there was talk over the radio which I guessed would quickly turn into the hottest kind of gossip. Our horses and mule never returned so, once the job was finished—I’m just now recalling that we were about done—half of the crew walked over to Buckeye canyon to round up the stock while the rest of us walked to Leavitt, drove the rigs over to Buckeye, and retrieved the fugitives. (They were in the temporary corral being used by the NPS trailcrew when we arrived to pick them up.) It was a real debacle all the way ‘round and an embarrassment for everybody concerned. I’d been looking forward to talking about this now-possibly-humorous event with Jane when she came to breakfast. Maybe, some day…. ◦◦◦◦◦ One more anecdote about Ms. S. She was a range con in, I believe, Austin, Nevada (part of Toiyabe Forest) before transferring to Bridgeport. One day a local rancher came into the office in Austin and said he had something to show them. Jane and some other range folks, maybe with an archaeologist, rode out into the hills with this fella. He took them to a small cave he’d found. They all crawled inside and Jane looked in wonder at the skeleton of a saber-toothed tiger laying, fully articulated, in the dust on the floor of this small cavern where it had rested, undisturbed, for thousands of years. I have nothing but naked envy for this experience-of-a-lifetime, as she once described it to me.

I met Jane again years later, in 2013, when she came to Crooked Creek to take part in a botany workshop we were hosting. She still worked for the Forest Service, getting close to retirement. We got to talk a few times and had lovely chats. We made brief reference to the event in question but it seemed inappropriate to bring it up in the company of others. (If we’d been alone, it probably would’ve been okay.) I would dearly love to hear her side of the story and what she recalled of it. One thing, though—she was able to clean up the last part of this entry, which, not surprisingly, I had completely wrong. (I tell people, half joking-half serious, that “my veracity coefficient is hovering in the low 70 percentile.”) This is more like what happened, maybe only fifteen percent off rather than forty percent: The skeleton was not a saber-toothed tiger but a CAVE BEAR—almost as good if not better. It was not discovered by the rancher but some professional cavers who had asked for, and gotten, permission from the rancher to explore the cave. They were the one’s who alerted the Forest Service, and I’m assuming that this was on Forest Service land. Still—I can imagine few things more thrilling than to witness something like this. It makes my skin tingle just thinking about it. I suppose I could find out more about it if I tried. I think I’ll let it be…leave it as a thrilling image in my mind, unsullied by those troublesome facts.


     ©2019 Tim Forsell                                                                                                                                                 
          13 Apr 2019                       

Tuesday, March 26, 2019

Piute Log...Just Plain Awkward 1994

This describes a unique “encounter,” one completely outside my usual ranger-type experiences, but it also gives a sense of the routine trailwork and campsite clean-up that was a big part of the job but often neglected in my logs. Still, it may be of some interest. But these two entries are mostly about a very uncomfortable situation involving a fellow employee who came up to the cabin for a visit. Sally—not her name—and I always got along fine. She transferred to the Toiyabe from another Forest and was assistant clerk for several years before her supervisor retired and Sally inherited her job—basically, the office manager. Lorenzo made it clear on the first day I worked for him in 1983 that it was in my best interest to be extra-nice to the person responsible for payroll and paperwork—solid, practical advice from my mentor. So I’d always happily made small-talk with Sally. She lived in her own place, a little pre-fab house out at what everyone called the ORS—the Old Ranger Station, off of Highway 395 a few miles north of Bridgeport. (It had been converted into a housing compound for employees after the new office was built in town.) Sally’s place was right next to the barn and she’d often come over to say hello after work while I was unloading horses and feeding after a day on the trail. For years she’d invited me over for dinner or to watch a video and I’d declined every single time, always having to make some sort of excuse. She never took the hint and never stopped asking. But I have no reason to be critical of her in any way; Sally was just a lonely woman in her thirties and then her forties who lived in a small town. She was not unattractive and was pleasant enough but I never knew her to have a boyfriend. ◦◦◦◦◦ Some years later Sally became, in my eyes, a sort of tragic figure: the Forest Service went through a poorly conceived bureaucratic reorganization and Sally was perfunctorily given a new job as “Forest GIS Coordinator” out of the regional headquarters up in Reno. (GIS—Geographic Information Systems—was a brand-new technology at the time.) It was work she had no background, expertise, or interest in whatsoever, with endless training sessions she had to travel to and from. She had enough years working for the agency behind her that she could retire after about five more so was in that terrible position of being forced to choose between a job she hated or losing her pension. Sally was unwilling to move to Reno—a town she despised—so was forced to commute, staying up there during the work week and spending weekends at home. For me—someone who considers being happy in one’s work to be one of the most  important things in life—I found her situation terribly sad and felt nothing but sympathy.
10 Sep (Sat)    Still windy! Very! Walked to Upper Long Lake and started cleaning waterbreaks—just the ones needing real attention. Rocked trail the whole way. Many stones did I toss. ◦◦◦◦◦ At Upper Long, started working the shore, poking all around the east and north sides—places I’ve seldom visited over the years. Of course, there were lots of firepits, some quite old. On the north shore, the usual camping area, there was a whole slew of brand-new sites with one horrendous mess. A real abortion: new pit built against a giant boulder (now smoke-scarred) with trash scattered all around. Broken plastic plates and foil, critter gnawed, and the pit covered over with rocks—just a big, ugly pile of soot-stained stones. When I started dismantling it, found that the rockpile concealed an obscene load of garbage—empty glass jars, tin cans, wrappers various, melted beer cans, more foil, more plastic. When I find jars I assume stock brought them in. Maybe not. But have seen this many times: low-class campers that try, pathetically, to hide their trash under a pile of rocks. Pathetic because they know it’s wrong to leave this stuff behind. They know! They feel a twinge of guilt but not enough jab to it to do the right thing. And it means there were no kids because children wouldn’t let their parents get away with such behavior. It would be interesting to see what this whole area—that is, Piute Country—would look like if no one had been picking up the trash and tearing out firepits for the last fifteen years (starting with Doc Grishaw’s efforts). There’d be fire-rings in every flat spot around every lake! So much trash strewn around! And everybody would leave their junk because there’d be so much it just wouldn’t matter. It would be hideous. End of rant. ◦◦◦◦◦ Walked home cross-country and found a neat new route. Cut right over the hill east of Lower Long—just a bit of uphill—and down a draw to Bill’s Creek. Real pretty flats in there and nice trees. Then a straight-shot corridor through granite with heavy-use deer trail that popped me out onto the Long Lakes trail right at the lightning-blasted white pine. Nifty find…a quick’n’scenic shortcut to Lower Long Lake. ◦◦◦◦◦ Back at the cabin: Sally, the business manager at the office in Bridgeport, had arrived for a two day visit along with her dog, Cinder. (Groan) She’d invited herself up earlier this season but I figured it’d never happen. Actually, I didn’t mind her coming; it’s good for the office folks to see the country and Sally is a very lonely woman so what the hay. I’ve told her more than once to come visit “any time,” after all. And she finally did. Was not thrilled to see her smelly old dog (nor were the cats) but of course she couldn’t leave her partner behind. ◦◦◦◦◦ Things got just plain awkward right off the bat. Shortly after I got home, Sally complained about her sore feet and declared, “Oh, I love a foot-rub better than just about anything.” Then, awhile later, out of the blue, she “needed a hug” so I obliged. Uh-oh. I was being hit-upon and started getting nervous. This was a new one for me. While preparing dinner she asked all sorts of intimate, personal questions, probing into my mysterious life in the mountains. She’d never done this before. Naively, I answered her with my usual cheery candor and I guess this got Sally thinking we were pretty close friends. I chat with her in the office in this casual way whenever we run into one another—she clearly needs/wants someone to talk to in this fashion—but for years I’ve declined each and every one of her many invitations to come over to her place to visit...she’d cook me supper, we could watch a video. And tonight, when asking why I always act so standoffish, I tried to explain that I’ve intentionally kept my distance from fellow employees…for, uh, “professional reasons.” (I didn’t say use those words but isn’t that what you call it? Being “professional”?) ◦◦◦◦◦ Anyway, I was tired and ready for bed. When Sally had to go out to pee I took the opportunity to strip and jump into my bag. She came back in and said, “You’re going to bed already? What about my foot-rub?” I just laughed nervously and petted Fenix intently. She didn’t press it any further and proceeded to get ready to go up in the loft. Right before climbing up the ladder she stopped beside my bunk, looked down at me for a second, and then asked point blank, “Would you like to come up and snuggle with me?” I was truly shocked and completely unprepared for this. “Nooo…[long pause]…I can’t do that.” Incredibly, she aggressively demanded “Why not?” (Not the right way to put it maybe but her tone was blunt and way-too-direct under the circumstances.) Told her, “Well…I…I don’t feel that way toward you.” This got her teary-eyed—thank gawd she didn’t start to cry—and said she was “awfully lonely” and wished she “had someone to hold her.” All I could come up with was, “I know.” Pretty lame, but what am I supposed to say? She headed up the ladder into the loft and I wished she was far, far away. ◦◦◦◦◦ The whole scene was intensely unpleasant. And now—finally—I understand how women throughout the ages have always felt when they get propositioned. By men they don’t care for. By men they despise. By other women. Or maybe someone they like and respect but just don’t particularly want to have sex with. It’s a horrible feeling and it forces you to deal when all you want is to be left alone and now I finally get it. Poor Sally—I have a lot of empathy for her. She wants and needs a man in the worst way. Most people don’t like alone.

11 Sep (Sun)     Made us pancakes for breakfast. I’d so hoped we could just ignore last night’s scene but Sally wanted to talk some more and explain that she only wanted some affection, not sex. Okay, Sally, whatever…now please leave me alone. ◦◦◦◦◦ She was going for a hike today and asked if I’d come along but told her sorry, couldn’t; had an extremely pressing project that couldn’t wait another day (didn’t say any of this) and I’d likely be gone til dark. (Did say that.) So she walked to Tower Lake and I packed the horses and headed downcanyon. ◦◦◦◦◦ Rode all the way to the bad creek crossing just south of the lava bluffs. I’ve put this job off for years but today was the day to clear that thing of all the loose stone. The little creek has overflowed its shallow bed and for a good fifty feet runs right down the trail before dumping off again. That fifty feet is full of big round cobbles—rough footing for stock. So I tossed rocks and raked and also dug out the creek bed as best I could to get the flow off the tread. Also, just below there, I finally built a waterbreak in a much-needed spot. Continued down the trail aways to toss rock and clear a few more waterbreaks. Explored a bit off trail in the dense jungle of the fir forest. (It’s dark in there.) ◦◦◦◦◦ Got back to the cabin at dusk. Still windy. Sally had been back for awhile. Yesterday I bathed a bit below the cabin on those slabs—good wind protection. But today it was too late and too cold so I skipped the bath. Made us dinner again. Sat around talking but got in bed fairly early—pretty tired and sore, in fact. Sally quietly went up into the loft, no talk of snuggling or foot-rubs tonight. Phew.


     ©2019 Tim Forsell                                                                                                                                                 
          25 Mar 2019                                        

Friday, March 1, 2019

Piute Log...Peoples and Place 1994

This first snippet sets the table for the next entry. It mentions one Gene Armstrong, a man from Atascadero who visited Piute Country with friends a number of times during my tenure. These folks generally used a big camp at the head of Upper Piute Meadows so would ride right past the cabin in their daily comings and goings. I got to know Gene and some of his friends and acolytes who started coming up on their own. Gene was very charismatic—a farrier (horseshoer) renowned for his deep understanding of the equine foot and how a horse’s steel shoes can be tuned to meet individual needs. He apparently could effect miracle cures of horses with chronic hoof and leg problems with subtle adjustments to their footwear and traveled widely putting on seminars…was a professor at Cal Poly San Luis Obispo as well. I can say about Gene Armstrong that, out of his presence, his people spoke of him in a tone of voice that revealed their high regard for the man; I got the impression that there was an almost mystical quality to his methods. A few of my own “western” friends who knew about Gene were somewhat leery of his techniques and more than a little skeptical of his guru-like status—possibly because his clientele were, ahem, people of means. (He and his friends rode gorgeous animals…all their gear and clothing was top shelf.) I got invited to dinner a number of times over the years and shared some memorable evenings in their camp.
6 Sep (Tue)     ◦◦◦◦◦ Met a young couple from Atascadero on the final mile. Talkative Peggy and quiet Carl (both, late 20s). When we first started talking I said, just guessing, “You must know Gene” and that perked them right up. (Turns out he’d sent them up here—both had taken his courses at Cal Poly.) They were camped at Stony Camp, riding up to see the famously beautiful Upper Piute Meadows. We had a nice chat. I gave them some useful pointers and a couple of “hot-tips-from-the-ranger.” ◦◦◦◦◦
This entry begins with visiting my parents at “Sonora Bridge” (a Forest Service campground just a few miles from the pack station). Every couple of years, my folks would stay there on one of their summer traveling trips and we’d have at least one brief visit. On this day, I was headed back to Piute after a quick resupply and was able to stop by—always a real pleasure to see them in this setting.◦◦◦◦◦Now, about references to named campsites. The pack station had appelations for camps they used—a physical characteristic or the surname of some party who had established the site or maybe just used it forever. I adopted the pack station’s names for ease of communication. “Black’s Camp” and “Point Camp” were two nearby sites at the far end of Upper Piute, somewhat less than a mile from the cabin. “Stony Camp,” a couple of miles down canyon, was not particularly rocky but…that’s what it was called.“Trash Camp” was an unattractive trailside site that had been used by Doc Grishaw and his cohorts (years before my arrival) as a convenient transfer depot in the course of his long campaign to rid the upper West Walker backcountry of vast amounts of garbage left by campers of yore—that is, from back in the days before people saw any reason to pack out their cans and bottles. ◦◦◦◦◦This naming of places-of-no-great-distinction happens wherever people need to communicate about specific locations where they live and work—a long tradition most Americans have forgotten about, to the point of people not even knowing that their own city got its name in this fashion. (A settler’s admonition, back in 1822, of “don’t try to cross the river ‘til you pass the big oak tree” is why the town ended up being called Oakford.) There are plenty of such place-names mentioned in this log, all of which I learned from pack station folk or the local ranch family. There was “Watch-Tree Creek,” a little brook that crossed the trail where—for some unknown reason—a cheap old pocket watch was nailed to a tree. “Bamboo flat” was a spot where, formerly, some bamboo-like weed had grown. (It was long gone by my time and I long wondered what type of grass it was.) “Harriet hill” was the steep grade ascending the moraine below Harriet Lake. “Beartrap Meadow,” not on any map, was an obscure hillside meadow used by sheepherders where a rusty old steel Beartrap had once hung from a tree. (The nearby Beartrap Lake got its name from the Meadow.) “Arragoni Pond” was the Lily pond right before Lower Piute Meadows opened up, named after one of the old-time sheep-herders whose name could still be made out, carved into the bark of a few old lodgepoles and aspens. ◦◦◦◦◦ This piece gives a glimpse of my dear friend, Doc’s character—a real bundle of contradictions and one of the most amazing people I’ve known. He was so much more than the cranky old man portrayed here. Sadly, he took his own life in 1999. (I’ll write up entries from that time at some point…they pain me still.)
9 Sep (Fri)     ◦◦◦◦◦ Stopped by Sonora Bridge to have breakfast with my folks. (Greta called me on the radio yesterday as I was riding out to let me know they were there—good timing!) Hell-aciously windy…a breeze with a real whiz-bang! At the “corner” heading around northwards to the Highway 108 junction, sand & grit & plant material raked my windshield. ◦◦◦◦◦ Right after turning onto the campground’s graveled road, saw an amazing thing: a fearsome cloud of dust and debris, whipping through the sagebrush and coming right at me. I had already slowed to a crawl so got to witness the whole thing. When that heap o’ wind crossed the road it coalesced—instantly—right in front of the truck, transforming into a minor hissing spitting tornado. It went from shapeless cloud to dense, opaque, clearly defined funnel just like [snap fingers for emphasis] that!! In that instant the thing was all-but-literally alive. And where the vortex touched the Earth there was a two-inch-wide circular focal point of pretty darned impressive force and energy, made out of nothing and short-lived. I could feel that point of contact’s power in my center. And then I drove right slam into the thing. The whole truck lurched, dust surrounding me on all sides, and for a second there I could barely see out my windows. (Fortunately, they were up at the time.) It all happened sofast. Oh, thanks so much for letting me see this! ◦◦◦◦◦ Had a very pleasant time with Ma & Pa. I’m afraid I just rattled on. Dad told me about something that really tickled him, an encounter with another camper a couple of days before. He was chatting with this fella and, in the course of their conversation, mentioned that his son was the ranger “back there.” The man, who’d backpacked up the West Walker and apparently had met me a time or two said (my father added a tone of awe here), “You’re the ranger’s father?!” Small-f fame! Wind whipping the trees outside, us all cozy in their nice trailer eating sausage and eggs and toast—thanks, Ma! But had to get on the trail so we said our goodbyes and hugged our hugs. ◦◦◦◦◦ At the pack station, chatted with Doc while packing. He was in the foulest of tempers, using his favorite and meanest epithets to lambast poor Peggy and Carl (those clients of Bart’s I’d talked with a few days ago). When I visited with them they were lamenting that Jim [one of the packers and Doc’s son] had dropped them off at Stony Camp instead of Upper Piute. They’d asked to be dropped off at Howard Black’s camp. I mentioned to Jim when I saw him that they seemed a bit unhappy; I was curious why they’d been dropped off in Lower Piute instead. Jim said that Doc had figured, with Black’s Camp being used so much this summer, that the feed would be all but gone around there. Jim suggested Stony Camp instead so their horses could find something to eat. Sounded reasonable to me. But I guess Jim had let Doc know, probably with some offhand comment, that the customers were displeased and in typical Doc-ian fashion he blew the whole deal way out of proportion. It took me awhile to get him calmed down. (He just needed something/somebody to vent on, I suppose—probably the wind had put him in this caustic temper.) Doc told me he’d cooked Peggy & Carl dinner the night before they went in ‘cuz they didn’t want to drive all the way to Bridgeport and back. So they were ingrates, spoiled brats who kiss the boots of the great horse guru Gene Armstrong. That’s the last time he does anything nice for these hobby-horsers…et cetera. (I’ve left out all the expletives, which considerably shortens a Doc-diatribe in written form.) Then, by way of comparison, he brought up Mike & Rene as examples of goodstock users. He likes them okay. “But that Mike,” Doc chuckled, in better humor now. “That Mike talks up a storm and he keeps repeating himself over and over again.” I was momentarily stunned to hear Doc say this. Mike is indeed a compulsive talker but I’ve not really noticed him being repetitive (at least, as far as repeating himself in the same conversation). Here is proof, again, of my theory that people are really irritated by qualities or foibles in others that they themselves possess. I’ve seen this over and over. And if there’s anyoneI know who’s guilty of repeating himself “over and over,” it’s Doc Grishaw. Sometimes he’ll give a lengthy discourse or instructions and immediately go through it again using almost the same phrasing. It drives me nuts. (It drives everyone at the pack station nuts, too, I’m sure.) But…he’s Doc. And, hey, since it bugs me so much, I must repeat myself without noticing. ◦◦◦◦◦ Got on the trail in a howling gale at 1:30, hanging onto my hat all through Leavitt Meadows. (Shouldn’t have washed my hair this morning.) [This is in reference to the fact that cowboy hats stay on better when one’s hair is a bit oily.] To the cabin five hours later. Saw two guys on horseback at the Fremont junction, with one leading a packhorse. No panniers, just junk tied all over a riding saddle—stuffsacks & pots & fishing poles dangling and clanking. In a flash I thought, ”Oh, no! These nimrods have never been here, don’t know the country, have no permit, need to find a camp right now, and will commit many crimes.” But it turns out they knew their business: freshly moved to Carson Valley from Gunnison, Colorado, the one old guy had sold his whole pack outfit thinking he wouldn’t be needing it any more. They had no plans to build a fire (so they said) because it’s so dry and windy. So I let ‘em stay there in the meadows and we parted amiably.


     ©2019 Tim Forsell              1 Mar 2019                                 

Sunday, February 24, 2019

The Demeaning of Life...Chapter 26: A Life-Loving Universe

Copernicus taught us the very sound lesson that we must not assume gratuitously that we occupy a privileged central position in the Universe. Unfortunately there has been a strong (not always subconscious) tendency to extend this to a most questionable dogma to the effect that our situation cannot be privileged in any sense.
                       Brandon Carter
                        
Major advances in observational technology show that solar systems with multiple planets are a “universal” feature. Building on the Copernican principle, their apparent abundance has opened the door for what might be a faulty assumption: Surely, LIFE must be far more widespread than anyone ever anticipated. Meanwhile, another recent perspective presents a thoroughly opposing view: Planets similar to Earth, rather than being commonplace, might be cosmic freaks…celestial curiosities. Viewed from outer space, our home planet looks like some sort of gaudy gemstone. Figuratively speaking, it is just that. Time for a fresh look at Earth’s cosmological status.

Our solar system’s position in the Milky Way, though not out of the ordinary in any sense, has proven to be quite advantageous since many hazards exist, even in the wide expanses of empty deep space. For a start: its overall setting—midway between the galaxy’s outer reaches and inner hub, and near the plane of its flattened disk—is a notably tranquil expanse. Here, between spiral arms, a star with potentially habitable planets is safely distant from the large, bright stars that make spiral arms so prominent in photographs—stars that are short-lived and frequently produce supernovas.[1]In fact, Earth lies within a poorly defined habitable zone sandwiched between the galaxy’s inner and outer regions, where stellar systems with terrestrial planets are expected to commonly be found (as explained below). By some estimates, possibly less than 10% of the Milky Way’s stars are located within this galactic zone safe haven.

The inner and central regions of a galaxy are dense with stars of all ages and types, along with star-forming gas clouds and interstellar dust. As for potential habitability: concentration of stars gradually falls off with increasing distance from the central axis. Great expanses of open space reduce the odds of a planet’s orbit being disturbed by gravitational tweaks from passing stars or of potential planetary inhabitants being adversely affected by radiation from supernovas.[2]The galactic boondocks, in contrast, are relatively placid. But as distance from the galactic center increases, gas density drops and with it, the rate of star formation dwindles. This adds up to fewer supernovas and smaller quantities of metals being produced. On average, stars farthest from the center are low in metal content and therefore less likely to be orbited by terrestrial planets. (Overall, the lower rate of star formation in the outer zones further reduces the amount of material available for planet-building.) But the dominant factor concerning habitability at the galactic scale hinge on a simple paucity of near neighbors. Ample distance from sources of harm protects planets from electromagnetic radiation, high-energy particle bombardment, and orbital instability.

Proponents of the Copernican principle assure us that nothing about our location in the galaxy is unusual. And, they say, this is true of our solar system as well. In almost all written accounts, the Sun is portrayed as a garden-variety star. But a closer evaluation of the facts tells a different story;in many regards Sol is a typical star, but it also happens to be ideally suited for fostering life on this one smallish planet. For one thing, Sol has been exceptionally stable over its lifetime. 

In actuality, by several measures our Sun is not so common after all. In terms of mass, ninety-five percent of the stars in our galaxy are smaller than Sol. By a considerable margin the most abundant variety are Type M red dwarfs. (Stars are often consigned to broad categories based on size and color as well as being formally classified using a system based on luminosity and surface temperature. For instance, Sol is a medium-sized Type G yellow star). Red dwarf stars are typically only ten percent of Sol’s mass, much cooler, and therefore far less luminous. Any life-sustaining planet would unavoidably have to orbit very close to a cool, dim star in order to have at least some unfrozen water. Near proximity to its sun puts a planet at continual risk from solar flares and a phenomenon called tidal lock, which induces a celestial body to fall into a geosynchronous orbit (that is, spinning on its axis exactly once per orbital cycle—the fate of our own moon). This results in one side always facing its sun while the other is eternally in shadow. Such a fate would have any number of negative effects on life. For one, all water on the planet would gradually be lost to the dark side, where it would remaining forever frozen while the sunlit half turned into a parched desert. 

Large stars are short-lived. Red giants, for instance, conclude the active portion of their lifespans in only a few million years. For perspective: in the 4.5 billion years since our sun was born, it has made about twenty laps around the galaxy. Had a massive star similar to Rigel (a blue-white giant, one of the brightest stars visible from Earth) formed in the same location and at the same time, it would have completed only around five percent of its first circuit before using up all its fuel and exploding in a supernova.[3]A star half again Sol’s mass enters its red giant phase after only about two billion years, swallowing up nearby planets and roasting those in more distant orbits. Not only is it unlikely that a mere two billion years provides enough time for life to evolve beyond the microbial, but any such short-lived sun’s ever-expanding girth would in due course remove prospective life-bearing planets from the pool of candidates. 

Large, hot stars give off most of their energy in the ultraviolet (UV) range. The energy level of UV radiation breaks organic molecular bonds and, accordingly, would prove highly destructive to any Earthlike atmosphere. In contrast, Sol emits less than ten percent of its light energy in the UV region of the spectrum. This low level of emission allows Earth to retain its ozone layer, which acts as a shield to protect surface life from excessive UV exposure. (As an aside: the amount of ultraviolet radiation that does reach our planet’s surface probably helps drive evolution through inducing mutations.) 

The Sun is thought to be a third generation star fashioned from remnants of two older generations (each of those preceding stars having been partially destroyed in supernovas at the end of their natural lives). As they age, stars go through an evolutionary progression based on the sequential consumption of their elemental fuel, starting with hydrogen and advancing through increasingly heavy elements up to and including iron. This process ends with the depleted star’s eventual gravity-induced collapse resulting in the creation of assemblages of elements heavier than iron. (These vary based on the star’s type.) Many of life’s key ingredients are created during these stellar metamorphoses, their proportions increasing in successive generations. Sol, relative to the proportion of hydrogen and helium has twenty-five percent more of the heavier elements than any of the Sun-like stars in our general vicinity. Originating from the same nebular source, our solar system also happens to be unusually rich in the elements that make life possible on this one terrestrial planet. Where did these materials come from? Exploding stars.

But how were they formed? The Big Bang produced only hydrogen, helium, and a minute amount of lithium. Heavier elements, up to and including iron, are created primarily by nuclear fusion deep in the hearts of stars many times more massive than Sol. Over time these bodies self-destruct, synthesizing all of the ninety-two naturally occurring elements. The debris from repeated supernovas is scattered, perhaps to be absorbed in other nebulae. Due to gravitational attraction, much of the swirling material ends up coalescing and contracting to form brand new stars. The never-ending river of time flows on as multiple generations are born, live, and die—little by little increasing the quantity of heavier elements in the universe and amassing them in new worlds. During the organization and assembly of a nebular cloud that became our solar system, virtually all its mass consisted of hydrogen and helium left over from the Big Bang. Most of this gaseous material condensed and collapsed, initially giving birth to the Sun and (later) the outer planets. What remained—a small fraction of the original accumulation—was made up of heavier elements in particulate form orbiting a solar embryo. By way of gradual accretion, this material finally gave rise to the terrestrial planets and their moons, a host of asteroids and comets, plus a modicum of leftover stardust. 
  
Of Earth’s many fortuitous attributes, it is generally agreed that foremost among them is this: our planet’s distance from the Sun allows water to exist chiefly as a liquid (though each of its three natural states is essential in some manner to sustaining life). To the casual observer these facts might not seem worthy of being considered providential, much less miraculous. But think about what a vanishingly narrow thermal span this comprises: a mere 100°C in a universe temperature range of from near absolute zero in the vacuum of space to around 10,000,000,000°C in the interiors of a few stars.[4]Earth has endured cold phases lasting millions of years in the distant past, wherein most of the planet’s surface was continually frozen. But for the bulk of its history, average ambient temperatures have fallen within a range that is effectively ideal, in the sense that terrestrial and aquatic life is able to survive under a wide variety of conditions in diverse environments. Clearly, LIFE adapts to the circumstances in which it finds itself; had conditions on Earth proven far more extreme and variable from the outset, living things would have found ways to adjust and survive. Microbial life would have been best at adapting. Plants and animals would have evolved physiological means of dealing with a different set of extremes. (More animals would hibernate, for instance…seeds would remain viable for longer periods.) LIFE would find ways to cope. But in terms of sheer providence, an even more important issue is this: ambient Earth temperatures fall within the range where carbon chemistry is most effective. 

The Copernican revolution set the table by removing humans from their glorified position in the Grand Scheme. Darwin’s great idea then banished purpose and meaning from our view of nature, once and for all (it was thought). Later, the principle of mediocrity entered the picture, consigning humanity to an even lower position on the cosmic totem pole. Lately, however, historic tides are changing due to a straightforward review of certain basic properties and material attributes—that is, as relates to their fitness for biological processes. Earth was not designed for some preordained role; there is no design-er aside from nature’s boundless creativity. To those who favor the concept of a biophilic universe, highly complex natural features are assumed to be part of some higher order rather than being purely fortuitous accidents. Lawrence Henderson, though not the first to take this stance, was first to lay out in meticulous detail specific chemical and physiological evidence to support his position. Today, we are finding that things once routinely assumed to be sheer coincidence actually derive from material and biological necessities. Henderson’s work has gained renewed attention. Physicists, astronomers, and cosmologists and are now taking his ideas further. 

Go back fifty years: in the 1960s a number of scientists were puzzling over apparent coincidences relating to properties of the universe. For some, there was a growing realization that the configuration of the universe and its fundamental laws had to be almost exactly as they are for living things to exist. Brandon Carter, a promising young astrophysicist at Cambridge, noticed a peculiar correspondence: stars with mid-range masses (like Sol) straddle a thin dividing line in terms of the way energy is transferred from core to surface and released into space. This quantifiable divide marks the boundary between radiative and convective heat loss—a delicate balance of gravitational and electromagnetic forces. If this balance were shifted slightly either way, stars with luminosities and surface temperatures similar to Sol’s would be extremely rare (or absent altogether). This intriguing correlation led Carter to consider whether other features of the universe might be similarly teetering on a conditional razor’s edge. 

Carter, simply out of curiosity, wrote an informal paper in which he posed these questions: For life of any sort to exist, what properties must the physical universe have? How much could the basic laws of the universe be altered before life would no longer be possible? Though never published, the now-legendary paper (written in 1967) was passed around among a small group of physicists.[5]Several years later at an informal gathering of astronomers and astrophysicists in Krakow, Poland, Carter gave a talk based on his ideas.[6]To be sure, other scientists had noticed similar oddities but it was Carter’s work that ended up getting worldwide attention, causing a stir that is ongoing (and may even be gaining momentum). Since that time a number of alternative universes have been evaluated, generally in the form of computer modeling. 

An offshoot of the debate was an analysis of the effects of changing various fundamental physical constants.[7]Ernan McMullin (professor of philosophy of science at Notre Dame) writes, “It became…a sort of parlor game among physicists to work out consequences of this sort.” A number of them took up the challenge. McMullin goes on:

Some of their conclusions:If the electromagnetic force were to be even slightly stronger relative to the other fundamental forces, all stars would be red dwarfs, and planets would not form. Or if it were a little weaker, all stars would be very hot, and thus short-lived…. If the strong nuclear force were to be just a little stronger, all of the hydrogen in the early universe would have been converted into helium. If it were to be slightly weaker in percentage terms, helium would not have formed, leaving an all-hydrogen universe. If the weak nuclear force were to have been just a little weaker, supernovas would not have developed, and thus heavier elements would not have been created. 

Thus far, no one has come up with a way to determine just how narrow the set of parameters are that made possible the formation of a stable universe (along with all its ordered complexity). Even so, most astrophysicists agree that the range of initial conditions that would create a universe like ours is quite restricted. 

By the same token, we know that gravity and the other fundamental forces—the weak and strong nuclear forces and electromagnetism—had to be in accordance at the moment of the Big Bang. Alter any of them and the world we know would not be here. For a bio-friendly world to exist, these forces and the values of other physical constants had to be almost exactly as found in nature; changes of only a few percentage points to some would have huge effects. The fundamental forces and physical constants appear to be deeply entwined. This mystifying quality of interconnected determinacy lies at the heart of what Carter christened the Anthropic Principle—properly speaking, more rhetorical device than scientific principle—which he thought of simply as a way to tackle the question of how we come to live in a universe so wonderfully conducive to life. Carter’s approach was framed as a response to the long-standing puzzle of why certain physical constants appear to be biased toward life. He further delineated the precept into Weak and Strong versions. The Weak Anthropic Principle (WAP) simply states what is more or less self-evident: that what we can expect to observe must be restricted by the conditions necessary for our presence as observers.” Carter went on to say that “we must be prepared to take account of the fact that our location in the universe is necessarily privileged to the extent of being compatible with our existence as observers.” In other words, the universe (and our place in it) has to be the way it is or we would not be here in our role of observers capable of calculating those constants. While some claim that the WAP is little more than a tautology and of no practical use, there are subtle implications behind a coarse reading that allow predictions to be made about the universe we find ourselves in. This, at least, was Carter’s intention.

Then there was Carter’s Strong Anthropic Principle (SAP), a somewhat meatier rendering asserting that “the Universe (and hence the fundamental parameters on which it depends) must be such as to permit the creation of observers within it at some stage.” The SAP’s basic claim is that physical laws acting on an evolving universe will inevitably give rise to conscious entities. In order to avoid the teleological insinuation of a universe with some sort of preordained goal, Carter hypothesized a large assemblage of coexisting universes that he referred to as world ensembles (properly speaking, discrete regions of spacetime, bubble-universes created by differing rates of expansion during the hypothesized inflationary phase of the Big Bang) “characterized by all conceivable combinations of initial conditions and fundamental constants.” The implications are that a vast majority of these universes would not be conducive to life; we just happen to find ourselves in one that is—otherwise we would not be here. Whether or not a multitude of universes really exists (there being no way to perform experiments that could confirm or deny this), we are still hard pressed to account for the many curious coincidences relating to the values of some fundamental constants. And this blunt truth: had the universe’s rate of expansion (a function of matter’s initial density at the Big Bang) been off by only a minute fraction, no galaxies, stars, or planets would exist.

Then there is the thorny question of carbon production, perhaps the most notorious instance of fine-tuning. As mentioned, the Big Bang produced only hydrogen, helium, and a smattering of lithium. Long before the standard model of Big Bang cosmology was worked out in detail, astrophysicists understood that elements heavier than lithium had to have been fashioned inside stars and then somehow distributed far and wide. In the early 1950s, quirky English astronomer Fred Hoyle (a relative unknown in his field) was working on the question of stellar nucleosynthesis—how heavier atomic nuclei might have been fabricated by stars.[8]A number of eminent scientists were rivals in trying to resolve this problem. Each was aware that the solution would involve the all-important alpha particle (another name for the helium nucleusconsisting of two protons and two neutrons). Under the extreme pressures and temperatures inside a star’s core, colliding alpha particles can overcome the electromagnetic repulsion caused by their positively charged protons, allowing them to fuse—the first step in a process that leads to the formation of heavier elements. But solving the problem was complicated by the extreme conditions of this environment, where collisions take place between particles every billionth of a second and the relatively fragile nuclei of heavier elements are easily torn apart.

In the early 1950s, subatomic forces and the rules affecting the excited states of nuclei inside stars were poorly understood. According to what was then known about nuclear physics, Hoyle recognized that the stellar production of carbon would not begin to match what was observed in nature. Hoyle, a highly original and unconventional thinker, reasoned that carbon must possess an unknown energy state, or resonance, that would allow the element to be readily synthesized in stars. 

At the time it was thought that three alpha particles, each consisting of two protons and two neutrons, could form one carbon nucleus (six protons, six neutrons). In order to form carbon, it would seem a simple matter for two helium nuclei to collide, forming beryllium (four protons, four neutrons), then another alpha particle to collide with a beryllium nucleus to create carbon—what nuclear physicists refer to as the triple alpha process. However, beryllium is highly unstable at stellar core temperatures, disintegrating back into two alpha particles in a fleeting 10¯¹⁶ seconds. Hoyle theorized that if carbon had an unknown resonance at precisely the right energy level, the combined energy states of beryllium nuclei and alpha particles would allow them to merge, forming carbon. This hypothetical resonance would have the effect of extending the incredibly brief instant a beryllium nucleus remains intact before degrading—providing just enough time for a third alpha particle to fuse with it.

Hoyle calculated the expected value of this unknown resonance. While on sabbatical in 1953, he approached a group of nuclear physicists at Caltech (where he was doing research) and managed to convince them to run an experiment that could confirm his prediction. Though skeptical, just days later they found Hoyle’s carbon resonance. His insight proved to be one of the most impressive historical incidents of a genuine scientific prediction leading, through experimentation, to the discovery of something previously unknown and unanticipated. 

Alongside the matter of carbon’s crucial resonance was the linked question of oxygen synthesis. Oxygen has eight protons and eight neutrons; if its synthesis were a result of carbon nuclei fusing with alpha particles—the obvious path—oxygen and carbon would not be found in their observed universal proportions. In actuality, oxygen’s resonant state is not quite high enough for oxygen to form by this route. If carbon’s resonance were just four percent lower than the combined energy states of beryllium and helium, it could not form. And oxygen’s resonant state is just slightly less than is necessary to be synthesized by the combination of carbon and helium nuclei; if it were only 0.5 percent higher, most carbon would be converted to oxygen. 

Do such figures point to fine-tuning? Fred Hoyle thought so. The discovery of carbon’s resonant state had a great impact on his way of thinking. Though a committed atheist, the famous astronomer gradually realized that the extremely narrow parameters governing carbon formation—and, by extension, the existence of all living things—looked to be what he later referred to as “a put-up job.”[9]Toward the end of his storied career, Hoyle came to believe that the universe must be the work of some intentional superintelligence (a term he used). 

On the other hand, many scientists contend that fine-tuning arguments bear little weight, pointing out that there is no way of knowing if alternate life forms could exist in a world arising from dissimilar initial conditions and operating with a different set of material constraints. They argue, too, that in another universe an alternative set of values for some or all physical constants might permit life to exist. Others contend that the alleged narrow breadth of fine-tuning is overstated and, as for those requisite “observers,” that this universe is most definitely not designed for humans.[10]Physicists and cosmologists who actually work in this field are mostly in agreement on technical points, conceding that some parameters could be off by fifty percent or more yet still generate a habitable universe. Regarding these matters, the philosophical stance of scientists appears to encompass the entire spectrum of viewpoints.

As for this universe’s sensitivity to a precise set of initial conditions: John Gribbin and Martin Rees write in their book Cosmic Coincidences (an early popular work on fine-tuning), “If we modify the value of one of the fundamental constants, something invariably goes wrong, leading to a universe that is inhospitable to life as we know it. When we adjust a second constant in an attempt to fix the problem(s), the result, generally, is to create three new problems for every one that we ‘solve.’” 

In the case of cosmological fine-tuning, conversation often veers into more of a philosophical debate. With cosmic-scale matters, there is a tendency for perspective to drift (exemplified by Steven Hawking’s equating humanity with pond scum). As always, one’s point of view is key. 

Steering this discourse back into the material realm: bear in mind that, shortly after the Big Bang, the universe was very simple. After cooling somewhat, for a brief period it consisted almost entirely of hydrogen, helium, and photons. But things soon became…complicated. Fast forward a few billion years and out of the immense swirl there appears one small terrestrial planet—home to bowerbirds, bumble bees, orchids, leafy sea dragons, sperm whales, and bipedal primates known for a love of the latest fashions.

Starting with the universe’s initial unembellished simplicity, imagine the river of time flowing from that cosmic fountain. Then ponder how a set of highly specific parameters, established virtually at the moment of creation, acted in concert to make a generous quantity of charge- and mass-bearing particles. Fated from their birth, these particles formed atoms—atoms that, it so happened, readily combine to yield very useful molecules. And among the galaxies without number that arose on account of those same, seemingly arbitrary initial conditions, one came into being that produced at least one planet where living matter took hold. There was ample water on this planet (which also had a pleasant climate). So LIFE took up the challenge and began its labors, fabricating DNA, ribosomes, electron transport chains, and chloroplasts—turning out one fantastic invention after another—each of them subject to rigid necessity and the vagaries of chance but surmounting all obstacles on the way to becoming. LIFE discovered photosynthesis, enabling the harvesting of abundant sunlight. It came up with oxidative metabolism…put electrons and protons to work. After devising bacteria and viruses, LIFE began to craft an endless array of fantastically intricate organisms. Most were small. Some were drab, unadorned, exceptionally functional models—built to persist for eons. But many of them were highly wrought, delicate, and outwardly frail while still others were unaccountably…bizarre. And here we are, latest in a long line of hairy beasts--strange creatures that learned to stand up and use their wits. What next?

Humans, along with the gift of existence, are granted a unique opportunity: to confront this mystery and wonder how it all came to this. Each of us can try and make some sense of what this Grand Swirl might signify. Asking why is part of our heritage, after all. And we have science for the whats and hows.

Based on available information, this particular universe (if there is more than the one) appears to sow living seeds wherever there is fertile ground. As of now, we have only our own planet to observe and nothing to compare and contrast it with aside from a few disadvantaged neighbors. Any inferences one might be tempted to make are constrained by having a sample size of one. According to the principle of terrestrial mediocrity, Earth is in no way special—just one among a host of Otherworlds. Everything presented thus far, however, points to a different conclusion: among the untold numbers of planets great and small, we live on what is likely one of the choicest pieces of real estate in the Milky Way galaxy—a planetary Garden of Eden.                       
  
      ©2019 by Tim Forsell (draft)       21 Feb 2019  
                  


[1]In photographs of galaxies, graceful spiral arms stand out due to the abundance of large, young stars. Unseen are the myriad smaller and far dimmer stars that fill the spaces between spiral arms.
[2]According to Gribbin, “A supernova occurring within 30 light-years of the Solar System would destroy most life on the surface of the Earth.” Another source claims that a supernova within 30 light-years would “affect life,” while a similar event one light-year distant would “probably sterilize” the planet.  
[3]Stars generate energy through the gravitational compression of hydrogen (their main constituent). Inconceivable pressures cause hydrogen nuclei to fuse, creating helium and releasing tremendous amounts of energy in the form of photons.
[4]Absolute zero is the impossible-to-achieve point where atomic motion ceases entirely—minus 273°C (−459°F). The average temperature of the universe (i.e., the temperature of the cosmic background radiation) is about −273°C (−455°F)—just 2.7°C above absolute zero. The high-end figure of ten billion degrees refers to the core temperature of neutron stars—the end result of the gravitational collapse of massive stars. 
[5]By all accounts, the paper (entitled “The Significance of Numerical Coincidences in Nature”) stimulated much discussion. Carter later further developed his ideas before another version appeared  in 1974. 
[6]The event was held in Krakow, Copernicus’ home town, to mark the 500th anniversary of his birth.
[7]In addition to mathematical constants (such as pi) there are fundamental physical constants (examples being the speed of light and the proton/electron mass ratio). The fundamental constants can only be arrived at by experimentation and measurement, not by mathematical calculation, and are assumed to be fixed and unvarying throughout time and space. All of these constants pertain to either gravitation, the standard model of particle physics, or quantum dynamics.
[8]Fred Hoyle (1915–2001), one who never shied away from controversy, was a leading figure in cosmology for several decades. He coined the expression “Big Bang,” using it on a British radio program during which he referred to “all the matter in the universe [being] created in one big bang at a particular time in the remote past.” Hoyle himself was a supporter of the discredited notion of a steady state universe (a universe with no beginning or end, where matter was constantly being created and destroyed) and was derisive of the new expanding universe model. But, contrary to popular accounts of the phrase’s origins, Hoyle—who was renowned for his biting sarcasm—by his own telling did not use it in a mocking or derisive manner. 
[9]The original quote: “Another put-up job? Following the above argument, I am inclined to think so. A common sense interpretation of the facts suggests that a superintellect has monkeyed with physics, as well as with chemistry and biology, and that there are no blind forces worth speaking about in nature.” ( A put-up job is some matter arranged in advance, such as a robbery or a surprise award.)
[10]Carter was in full agreement on this point. He later regretted his choice of the term anthropic, with its human-centered connotations, but the catchy name was already in wide use.