Wednesday, January 19, 2022

When You Love Where You Live

 IT SNOWED RIGHT AFTER MEMORIAL DAY. Maybe an inch, one measly inch, fell here at the ranger cabin in Piute Meadows where I live five months out of the year. Nary a drop of moisture since that day in May. I can’t even remember the last time it rained. After four dry winters in a row, 1990 is shaping up to be more of the same. I’ve worked around these parts since 1983 and this has been the longest dry spell yet. 

Come mid-July, the Eastern Sierra finally got some much-needed rain when a ridge of high pressure parked itself off the coast of Mexico, triggering a spate of classic California-style monsoonal weather. Steady streams of juicy tropical air made for muggy days, a rare phenomenon in mountainous country. The day’s first clouds would roll in early, a dependable indicator of coming rain. Starting around nine a.m., barely-there wisps would appear out of thin air—tumbling shreds of gauzy vapor that melted away like mirages only to rematerialize seconds later. Throughout the morning hours these cloud-embryos multiplied, turning into puffy little things that got bigger, grew some more, merged, and gradually metamorphosed into soaring black-bellied thunderheads. 

Throughout the whole tropical phase, after breakfast cleanup and chores sundry I’d pack a lunch, get my things together and be off. Out on the trail shadows raced by, the sun winking on and off as if someone were flipping a switch. From high places I’d see the tops of far away Cumulonimbus skyscrapers billowing up from behind intervening ridgelines. Later I might be doing a little trail work (bent over a shovel or sawing a fallen tree, paying the heavens little heed) and suddenly notice that the sky’s    remaining blue parts had all but vanished. And be glad I’d packed that slicker. 

Once it got underway the monsoon produced powerful electric storms, typically accompanied by hail or torrential rain—or both. Highcountry thunderstorms are often localized and seldom last long. But when the sky grows dark as dusk and that first far off rumble sounds, you know what’s coming. There’s a noticeable tension in the air, the proverbial calm before the storm. Ions swirl. Charges accumulate. Currents congregate. And then: dazzling ribbons of white light, gone before you even begin to grasp what you’ve just witnessed. Unnoticed, your jaw drops. Eyes widen, heart valves flutter. You feel a cocktail of wonderment, joy, and primal fear. The full-on, certified rippers let loose an array of claps, booms, sharp cracks, or those delightful resonant peals that fade away in rumbling rolls. After a beefy ground strike there’s this full-body expectancy—an actual physical sensation—as you count off the seconds in your head…waiting, waiting, waiting for the tumult to commence. From a safe location, first rate lightning shows are one of outdoor life’s sweetest treats. (Or, if trapped on a ridgeline or rock face when the bolts start slamming down, an unparalleled opportunity to become acquainted with mortal terror.) Either way, you don’t “watch” a thunderstorm. You’re a participant. 

In a normal year, from the beginning of July through August, towering Cumulus thunderheads in the afternoon are standard fare along with sporadic lightning events. Tropical influence amplifies everything: earlier cloud buildup, darker skies; storms are more intense, hailstones larger. This summer, all the weather drama transformed other-wise ordinary days into would-be adventures. Each and every one of these days came with a guarantee of sweet smells and lights and moody aftermaths to savor; maybe a rainbow or two. Added bonus: fiery, unending sunsets—the kind where half the sky is already black and turning starry when the last hint of color finally fades to grey.

Not long after the 4th of July there was a run of nine straight days here at Piute Meadows with at least some rain. At some point on each of those nine days there were flashes of lightning in the immediate vicinity or thunder, unaccompanied by any preceding flicker, coming from points unknown. Once it became clear that this was a true monsoon cycle, I’d carry my mug of coffee out on the porch to greet the new day. And stand there, sun warm on my face, with a bring-it-on feeling animated by the prospect of what this one might have in store—emotion above and beyond my typical early morning good spirits. A subtly different outlook; like a double dose of the keen anticipation wilderness rangers generally feel the moment they wake up each day. 

 

The wet weather arrived on July 6th, the day I left Piute on a “town run.” That is, a quick resupply trip to Bridgeport, where the Forest Service district office is located and groceries are to be had. But first came the four hour ride to Leavitt Meadows—to the pack station where my stock are boarded when I’m away and where the truck is parked. There were four of us, actually: my usual ride, Ramon, and pack horse, Valiente (both, seasoned veterans) plus our latest recruit, Becky—a six-year-old mule acquired last fall as part of a trade-in. With equines, six is the equivalent of awkward teenager. What this newcomer needed most of all was backcountry experience; good, honest labor to help burn off all the nervous energy and insecurity. To that end, I’d been using her to haul sacks of grain and alfalfa pellets up to the cabin for autumn feed. For this trip, though, Becky was along primarily because she couldn’t be left behind all by herself. As a rule, mules can’t abide being left alone. And this one was an accomplished escape artist. 

The day of departure started out fine and fair. But clouds soon appeared; showers followed, then light rain most of the way. With bad luck, just minutes before we arrived at the pack station it began to pour. Those wearing steel shoes didn’t seem to mind a bit but the ranger had to unload and unsaddle and stash all the gear in a full-on deluge. Everything got soaked. And sure enough, the rain let up right after I’d finished. Like it always does. (Or seems to do.)

The following day it was back to the cabin with clean clothes and fresh food in tow, plus a stack of lumber slated for construction projects. The wood was cached at the Forest Service warehouse in town, just waiting for a time when an extra pack animal was available. On the ride out I realized that here was a perfect opportunity to bring in that lumber so I spent all morning trimming boards and posts into seven-foot lengths—standard eight-footers are too long to safely pack on horseback—and made up a pair of taped and tarped bundles. After using up half my day getting everything together I drove back to the pack station. When I climbed out of the truck, there were my three standing at the corral fence, staring at me. An easy catch for a change—all four of us  eager to get back home. Becky got the groceries, laundry, three gallons of lantern fuel, and two sixty-pound sacks of oats. Valiente, was entrusted with the bundles of lumber (eighty-plus pounds each) which I slung off his packsaddle crosstrees, running fore and aft on each side. You need a dependable beast of burden for this sort of undertaking and I knew from past experience with other weird loads that steady old Valiente was the man for the job. Still, cargo extending past nose and tail always spells t-r-o-u-b-l-e. For one thing, the animal can’t turn its head; if it tries, gets poked in the face and panics, there will likely be what packers refer to as a “wreck”—any unplanned event that ends in tangled-rope disarray, with or without blood and broken bones. I tarped the whole load and lashed it down tight with fifty feet of rope. Though well balanced it would be prone to uncontrollable fore-aft sway—a not-good thing. My plan was: go slow, keep a sharp eye on old Valiente, and try to get everybody home safe and sound. 

What with all the prep work it was mid-afternoon by the time we got underway. Today appeared to be a repeat of the previous one, weather-wise. Blue sky had quit the field and that menacing grey matter looming moistly overhead looked ready to start unloading at any moment. Last thing I did before climbing up on Ramon was to don my slicker, something I generally wait to do until the rain actually starts. And off we went.

From the pack station’s back gate a connecting trail angles toward a shallow ford near the head of Leavitt Meadows, half a mile away. Once across the river this connecter joins the main West Walker River trail as it traverses the hillside rising above the meadow’s eastern edge. From that side of the valley, Tower Peak’s imposing bulk is briefly visible off in the far distance, fifteen miles away, astride what is both Sierra crest and Yosemite Park border. During those few minutes where Tower Peak can be seen from the trail, several bolts touched down in the vicinity of its castellated summit, so far away the thunder never reached our ears. Those multiple strikes got my attention but the horses and mule didn’t even notice—it’s not so much lightning as its sonic aftermath that puts livestock on full alert. Thunder definitely puts them on edge, especially when it comes in tandem with the strike. (With equines, anxiety is infectious; it spreads through the ranks—sometimes in an instant—especially when one animal is a nervous type to begin with.) Valiente was right behind me with the mule bringing up the rear. I held Valiente’s lead rope and Becky was “necked” to the big packhorse—that is, her lead rope ran along Valiente’s side and was tied in a dangly loop around his neck. I’d given her extra slack so she could trail farther back and avoid getting hit in the face by the lumber that was jutting a good foot beyond Valiente’s rump. Becky, being crafty by nature, took full advantage of having more slack to work with: again and again she’d rush ahead, creating sufficient time to mow down whatever green thing grew within reach before getting caught short. Most of the ride I could hear her chomping away.

The storm was imminent. Just as we began to climb out of the meadow, blustery gusts of wind appeared out of nowhere, as if they’d been hiding in wait. A fat droplet slammed my hat brim, then another, then three or four more. A minute later the zephyr died as quickly as it had risen. But, up ahead, a semi-opaque curtain bore down on us at a fast walking pace, accompanied by the clamor of raindrops without number meeting ground head on. Farther upcanyon, discrete regions inside the purple-grey cloud mass were lit from within by sporadic flashes. Thunder reverberated and rereverberated off the glacier-carved canyon’s lofty walls. Lucky me, I got to witness all the drama from my saddle (a front row seat, as it were). All the while inhaling the most alluring fragrance—a bouquet of damp soil, newly wet sage and bitterbrush and mahogany with undertones of pine, juniper, and sun-warmed granite. This olfactory elixir represents the mid-elevation eastern Sierran version of Earth Essence. Breathe it in—you have only minutes to relish this ephemeral perfume before falling rain washes it back into the soil.

Three hours and nine miles later, we crested a long grade, rejoining the river near where it enters a series of narrow gorges. Over the next mile the trail passes through some idyllic mountain scenery: glades rimmed by lodgepole pine forest and willow thickets…broad oxbows, river just a whisper…a marshy pond, half covered with water lily pads and backed by a black-streaked granite wall. It was still raining but thanks to my calf-length oilskin slicker, leather chaps, and hat cover I was warm and dry (that is, aside from cold hands, numb with gripping sodden reins and lead-rope). In a reverie, I half-listened to the hypnotic cadence of a dozen hooves slapping into puddles—muddy puddles that currently filled long stretches of the dead-flat trail. After continual ups and downs and rocky roads, this restful passage marks the point on my long commute where a certain mental pressure begins to ease off; where home starts to feel close at hand even with two miles yet to go and one final hill to climb. I’d long since exhausted my capacity to relish the storm, having slipped into that drowsy-dreamy state all weary riders know well. Random brain chatter sufficed for cheap entertainment. The lower back pain had arrived right on schedule. My knees ached and I was ready to be done, hankering for that cozy log cabin up ahead…a snap-crackle fire going in the old wood stove…a steaming mug of orange pekoe tea in hand, purring cat on my lap. 

Another storm cell rolled in and the rain picked up. It was late; with evening coming on fast and the heavy cloud cover it was getting darker by the minute. Fresh lightning woke me out of my semi-stupor. Here it comes again!Flashes illuminated the dim-lit forest in terrific detail for split seconds at a time, followed by deep rumbles that swept through the trees like a wind coming from everywhere at once, coming in waves that I could hear approaching—waves that passed right through me before racing off in all directions. Whoa! That one was close! The horses and mule were scared now, which gave me pause. Hoo! We’re right in it! What about a near strike? What’ll these guys do? You ready?I hadn’t been paying all that much attention to Valiente. Or the mule. We’d been clomping along at a steady pace for hours without incident so I just kept my head down and ignored (as usual) (again) the wee small voice that offers wise counsel for free. 

Not that it would’ve made much difference.

            The instant before everything started happening all at once I both felt and heard a crackling sizzle that seemed to dance on the surface of my soggy raincoat—a sound something like what you hear standing under a power line in dense fog. I knew what this was and what it meant but there was no time to think, no time

A monumental flash. 

An earsplitting CRACK!

A resounding ba-BOOM!

That penetrating smell—

—one thing, one great-big-thing that swamped all my senses. I didn’t witness the stroke but knew in my bones what had just happened: an electric bomb detonated     behind me and to my left; definitely within a hundred feet, perhaps even closer. I know this because the flash and ferocious roar, along with the pungent tang of ozone, came in the same instant. (If you smell the distinctive, “clean” odor of ozone…it was close.) 

What happened next is a little murky. Apparently I missed the next bit—the part where Valiente rushed up on Ramon’s right side and Becky, thanks to that extra lead rope, swung all the way around to his left. Back in my skin again, I was horrified to discover that the three equines had taken flight, taking me with them. Their herd instinct, in time of peril, tells them to tighten ranks and everybody run for your life. Fair enough. But that made for a lot of red meat stampeding up the trail, wild and witless. My legs were both pinned between several hundred pounds of loose freight that was flying up and slamming back down—for any packer, a dreadful sound. There was a confusion of ropes to contend with. Perhaps some shouting; if so, I missed that as well. Panic, on my part, was supplanted by instinctive impulse: inner commands advising me to just hang on and ride it out. I was dimly aware that I might well be dragged from my saddle in a snarl of ropes and killed. But out of pure good fortune we happened to be in one place where there was nothing more substantial than pine saplings to crash into. (I vaguely recall mowing down a few innocent bystanders.) Hauling on Ramon’s reins, I gradually managed to get things back under a semblance of control. Valiente and Becky somehow sorted themselves out on their own. Then: everything came to a standstill. No billowing clouds of dust at the denouement for dramatic emphasis; just the insistent patter of rain.

Now there was time in abundance to process information and imagine how this near-tragedy could have turned out. I’m guessing the whole ordeal took place in a long five or six seconds; it’s hard to say. Some of the mortal fear that would have come into play if our mad dash had gone on any longer finally caught up with me. I felt queasy and jubilant, both. Could’ve died! Didn’t die! Lucked out again! The other survivors stood in a huddle with nostrils flaring and eyes rolled back so the white bit showed. Their heads swiveled back and forth, looking for something—something they could actually see and run away from. Becky, those ludicrous jumbo-size donkey ears of hers at full alert, snorted once, twice, thrice. To help dissipate my adrenaline-laced nausea I let loose a couple of full-throated wolf howls, which did not help calm the mule. The electric part of the storm was more or less over but Becky jitterbugged the rest of the way home, dodging invisible demons. As for me—I was now fully awake, with a renewed appreciation for simple things, like the wholesome pleasure that comes with breathing cool mountain air (for one). And remembered something I’ve known for ages but had let slip: the way numb hands and aching knees and all-purpose weariness can enrich Experience, serving as reminders that we inhabit a sensate body. Heading into the home stretch I could once again feel and hear the rain and smell the delicate scent of dripping-wet pine forest—things that only minutes before had barely registered.

 

Building trail is a quintessential ranger activity, one that I particularly enjoy. Two days after my close call I was miles downcanyon tackling a long-overdue project: rerouting fifty yards of trail to circumvent a bad place where tree roots, exposed by erosion, had turned into a real hazard for pack strings. More precipitation was in the offing. The fix was to be a switchback that would bypass the bad section entirely. It required heaps of digging and rock-grubbing plus there were boulders to shift and a few small trees that had to go. (I’d cached tools at the site on a previous trip.) I was halfway through the job and fully committed when the rain came. So I carried on, sweating hard in my slicker for a couple more hours while long-suffering Ramon waited patiently, dreaming horsey dreams. Once finished, I hid my tools and we headed for home. The rain eased up and finally quit. No backpackers about…no one at all. Forest sounds and smells gentled my senses. I was beat and sore but brimming with contentment, a brand of self-satisfaction that comes with hard labors and a worthy task complete. Or maybe I was experiencing the lingering aftereffects of my recent brush with mortality and just felt glad to be alive.

The next day, feeling not so keen to go out in the rain again, I opted to stay put. There were plenty of indoor chores to keep me occupied. This  turned out to be the stormiest day thus far with showers starting around ten, building in intensity and    continuing well into the afternoon without pause. Not being out in it, I was loving the wet weather; last season we had but one thunderstorm all summer long and I’d almost   forgotten how invigorating they can be. After lunch I carried a chair out on the porch to write in my journal and enjoy the storm. My two cats, Rip and Spring, were asleep up in the loft. I hadn’t seen either since breakfast and wished they’d come keep me company. My stepping outside woke them up and it came as no surprise, knowing these two, that hearing me go out would pique their feline curiosity. Sure enough, a minute later they both popped through their cat door. Spring ignored me but Rip came over to say hello before they both jumped up on the saddle rack. After a ride, I drape damp saddle pads and blankets over the saddles’ seats to air them, making for an ideal soft kitty hangout spot. (Both cats will spend hours curled up on those blankets, snoozing or gazing out over the meadow.) Now, they were already folded up into compact cat-balls, squinty-eyed and all set to nod off again. I’d pause from time to time between scribbling and pondering to look over at them. One, a tabby; one jet black; side by side facing the meadow with tails wrapped, sealing off drafts: an image that captured the very essence of feline contentment. It melted my heart and re-melted it each time I glanced over. Rain drummed on the porch roof and dripped off its eaves and we were all so terribly cozy. 

The West Walker River, as a named watercourse, originates just beyond the head of Piute Meadows where three boisterous creeks come together in the space of maybe five hundred feet. The new-found river begins its journey in leisurely fashion, winding along through snaky oxbows that run the length of the almost mile-long meadow. On this day the rain came down hard—hard enough and for long enough that the meandering river gathered considerable speed. Opaque with sediment, it rose inch by inch throughout the day, climbing up its turf-rimmed banks and burying sandbars. (Those visible from the porch shrank and finally disappeared as I was writing in my journal.) When the rain finally eased off in the early evening I walked down to the log bridge just below the cabin for a closer look. Rip, always keen for a walk, followed at my heels. Swift flat water coming ‘round the bend was a resolute murmur on top of the muffled commotion of cascading rapids in the narrow gorge just downcanyon. We found the bridge mostly under water with an assortment of sticks and pine cones temporarily  corralled in a swirling eddy on its downstream side. Wildflowers that grow among the grasses and sedges making up the turfy banks were drowning in brown soup. A good part of all this runoff consisted of freshly melted snow washed down from the crest. Standing there on the bank at the spot where I daily dip my water buckets I could feel an icy chill radiating from the river’s surface the way heat radiates from a stove. Rip surveyed the alien scene with great interest, too engrossed by what he saw to notice or care that his legs and belly were soaked. This was my furry friend’s world, too, and his bridge—the bridge he crosses at night while I’m asleep and goes who-knows-where—was half under water. Then: Rip spotted something. I saw his eyes focus with that gleaming feline intensity and followed his gaze. Out past the back fence a mallard hen, following a foray to the river with her brood, was leading them back to the cutoff oxbow pond where they find safety in tall sedges that grow there. I counted six ducklings in a line, struggling to keep up. Robins warbled their off-tune dusk song. An owl called.

Tranquility. Stillness, personified. A feeling of home, of place: “Piute Country.”

 

In the morning, well before Sol topped the canyon’s rim, I went out to catch Ramon and saw that my river was back down and no longer the color of mud. The sky was clear; a fine day was in store. But by the time I had the horse saddled and was ready to depart, clouds had arrived. After crossing the dewy meadow and fording the West Walker we turned right for a change and headed upcanyon toward Kirkwood Pass, bound for Rainbow Canyon on a non-routine patrol. Valiente and Becky, standing together by the river, watched us go. It may have been because they had full bellies and were a bit bored, I don’t know, but the pair decided to tag along and fell in behind Ramon. They followed for well over a mile, as far as the highest meadow, but as soon as the trail began to climb they lost interest and watched us go. Ramon was despondent. When I urged him on he turned his head and fixed them with a look so doleful, so wounded, so hurt, that I had to laugh. Again: all herd animals share a natural impulse to stick together. But Valiente and Becky had one another, after all, and were standing knee-deep in lush green grass. As we went along, Ramon kept turning his head to stare intently in the precise direction of where he’d last laid eyes on his fair weather friends. 

            The view from just below the cabin at this time of year is picture postcard-esque. Verdant meadow fills the fore- and middle-ground. Forested slopes slant upwards, drawing the eye toward the north faces of two eleven-thousand-foot peaks—craggy heights sporting dramatic precipices and icefields, flanked by hanging valleys. But see: well beyond the head of the meadow are several thoroughly unremarkable knobby bluffs rising out of an otherwise featureless, timber-covered slope. Even the highest, most prominent of these minor outcrops (as seen from the cabin) goes unnoticed, overshadowed by tall cliffs and snowfields and jagged ridgelines—features that grab one’s eye and don’t let go. Well off the nearest trail, even that highest, most conspicuous bluff is a place no one ever thinks to visit. A deer hunter might stumble onto its summit every decade or so—maybe. But this humble, unknown prominence just happens to be ideally situated when it comes to providing a fantastic view down the entire length of the West Walker River canyon. For some years now I’ve been thinking, I need to go there.  

It turned out to be a perfect day, in more ways than one. I was in no hurry and everything about this moment in time was fresh and engaging. Two miles from the    cabin, about to pass beneath that highest bluff: on a whim, without a plan, I jumped off Ramon and tied him to a sapling by the trail. And then headed straight uphill following an unforested avalanche path half overgrown with snowberry and sagebrush.

Marching upslope, dodging bushes and boulders, a peculiar phrase landed in my mind and stuck there: Goin’ where the deer bed down. I scarcely noticed when this odd turn of phrase first appeared. But then it came again. And again. And kept repeating, at random intervals. It was my own voice—the customary voice we all hear inside our heads—speaking to no one in particular. The quirky refrain, aside from being neutral in tone with no words inflected, had the lilt of an advertising jingle. The words kept       repeating over and over, like a snatch from some old tune that gets lodged in the brain and just won’t go away. Goin’ where the deer bed downgoin’ where the deer bed down

Entering a zone of blocky talus, I hop-stepped from rock to rock (goin’ where the deer bed down) and squeezed between boulders, angling toward the bluff’s left shoulder (…where the deer bed down). Minutes before, I’d noticed an uninterrupted horizontal joint splitting the entire face about halfway up. Mountain-sense told me that this fracture line was likely to be a ledge so I aimed for it. At this point the bluff was directly above me. 

I was watching my feet (goin’ where the deer bed down…) when a strange sound, a half-hard-half-soft clatter, grabbed my attention—all of it. My head snapped up just in time to see a big doe sprint across the face on a narrow passageway still hidden from view. Dashing for cover, she reached its far end and vanished. While I’d caught only a glimpse (enough of a glimpse to know it was a she) I heard with great clarity a sound I recognized: the sound of deer hoof striking bedrock. At the same time I felt, deep in my core, a sort of raw vitality that was somehow being conveyed through four slender legs surging in unison—through that inexplicably pleasant sound, the sound of horny hoof on solid stone. A loose pebble she’d dislodged bounced down the face and landed just yards away, shattering a suddenly conspicuous silence. Even as I was wheeling  toward these sounds, vibrant impressions appeared fully formed. I was viscerally experiencing the powerful thrust behind those four lunging legs as if they were mine—a sensation I knew from recurring dreams that I’ve had dozens of times; dreams like “normal” flying dreams (I have those, too) except that instead of flying I hop.

This deserves a little explanation. In these dreams I’m always running away from something; trying to evade, not a specific personage or malevolent force, but some     nebulous form of oppressive authority. I make my escape by way of a series of colossal dream-style “hops”—two-legged kangaroo-hops, repeated leaps that demand all my strength and will. I can actually feel the bent knees, rock-hard thighs; the clenched fists and jaw. And then I’m soaring through the air: wild arcing flights over and through shadowy landscapes, light as a feather and filled with an indescribable joy. Gliding down slow, clenching up tight in every fiber before the next bound…feeling the resistance of earth beneath my feet…sailing off again. And again. My leaping dreams always have this heady sensation of asserting agency; of attaining freedom through sheer power of will. (I don’t need a Jungian analyst to tell me that all this is the articulation of a natural-born rebel’s antipathy toward restrictive authority.) At some point the vision fades and I find myself suspended between two worlds, hovering between normal consciousness and a separate reality. And in that brief interlude where these two disparate worlds intersect there’s a torrent of conflicting emotions: true bliss on the one side of slumber, an anguished sense of loss on the other. An overpowering urge to return to the land of sleep and get back that euphoric feeling…to steal back to a captivating otherworld where I can bound through the air like a leaping stag. 

            Back to the present. I quick scampered up the last stretch (Why the haste?) to find out just how that frightened she-deer had made such a clean escape. Surprise: this was not your typical rough-hewn bench covered with rubble—it was a dead-level shelf as wide as a sidewalk, naked granite polished smooth by ponderous rivers of ice. In places the ledge was strewn with gravel and fallen rock but was largely free of debris, making for an enchanting passage that demanded to be traversed. I didst heed that siren song. 

Traversing the ledge I found where the doe had been resting. Resting until….

Here was a kind of perfection: near the middle of this natural sidewalk, rising out of a nook in the backing wall, grew a squat, bonsai-of-a-juniper. Its lower branches were arrayed gracefully over a hollowed out depression. The stout little tree was rooted in a mound of soil derived from a century or three’s worth of shed foliage—crumbled fragments of juniper “needles” bearing the spicy, brown aroma of decayed cedar. The little hollowed-out spot beneath a spreading green umbrella made for a welcoming place of rest. She’d been curled there in shade beside the twisted little juniper’s cinnamon-colored trunk, legs smartly folded. At ease. This was a terrific viewpoint and the rock face behind her offered further security, with two excellent escape routes to choose from. She’d observed my approach with head high and ears forward, sniffing the air for sign, relaxed and ready. In all likelihood, this doe has known me since her mother first led her to the salt block at the cabin when she was a fawn; she’s probably stood there in the yard watching her own spotted fawns watch me. These vivid images came all in a rush—a sweeping mental picture (parts of it through a doe’s eyes). Without thought I placed my open hand in her nest and felt a residual warmth. Bending down, I inhaled deeply and in return got a whiff of that distinctive, wholesome deer smell. All of this filled me with gladness—with a delight completely out of proportion with having discovered a mule deer’s hideaway. For a moment there I actually considered curling in the doe’s nest with my own limbs folded—a surprisingly powerful impulse. But…but I was too large, alas. In consolation I followed the ledge to its far end and beyond, searching until I found the deep impressions of her hooves in moist, sandy soil. Scanning the brush-covered slope, I saw no movement but knew she was up there, watching. 

A few minutes later, on the bluff’s flat summit, I surveyed my greater home. Something in me had shifted. Whatever it was, it was that doe’s doing. In this grace-tinged state, senses felt sharper. I saw with new clarity, taking in unappreciated or up to now unseen details. Piute Meadows, like a lake the color of malachite, filled this long canyon’s upper end; the river’s serpentine curves were laid out like a shiny metallic ribbon on the greener-than-green lake’s surface; a glory-blue sky festooned with clouds throwing shadows far and wide; the miles-long glacial canyon, not so very long ago overflowing with ice and pulverized mountain, rolled into the distance. Closer at hand: rainwater pooled in shallow potholes, a light breeze ruffling their surfaces; several large erratic boulders on tasteful display nearby—testaments to the noble landscape’s origins, currently at rest. A magnificent silence encompassed all. Rain would come later if not sooner, bringing with it more life-affirming drama in the form of lightning and thunder.

I knew just where the little log cabin was hidden behind a screen of tall lodgepole pines on the emerald lake’s far shore—the place where bed down. Everything I looked upon had an inner glow (or maybe it was just the day). This much can be said: on top of an obscure granite knob with a fabulous view, with a depth of feeling I can seldom muster, I was seeing this tiny slice of the Earth’s pie I call “Piute Country,” not just from a different point of view but with brand-new perspective. Rebirth and renewal had come via a fleeting encounter with a fellow forest denizen, one of my neighbors. Our eyes never even met. But here’s the meaty mystery—our chance meeting had somehow been telegraphed to my subconscious in advance by a most peculiar communiqué, one that came from who-knows-where. There’s a word for such things: enigmas. They come in many forms, often hard to characterize or categorize. 

File this one under “Gifts from the Universe.”

 

          ©2021 Tim Forsell                                                           1 Nov 1990, 2 Jun 2020, 5 Jan 2022

 

Friday, December 24, 2021

Piute Log...Liar Liar Liar! 2000

 2 Jul (Sun)     Day #2 of Big Holiday Weekend! What now? Last night, locked my two drones in the corral—the same two drones who’d been free-eating all day long—but left Red out to graze. My plan worked: he stuck close by which kept his cohorts from panicking and crashing out. So Red was well fed and rested and ready for more. “Sez who?” asks the red horse. ◦◦◦◦◦ Got an early start (for me), leaving just as sun hit cabin. Plan was to make it to Fremont Lake before half the happy tourists packed up and moved on. Got there an hour later, passing two camps with boots-at-the-door. I don’t know about other rangers but this one refuses to knock on tent doors this early in the morning, rousting vacationers out of bed just to check their permits. ◦◦◦◦◦ Had this weird thing going on today that turned into a real hassle. This has happened before but never quite so bad. Now, please don’t laugh, but I had a really painful right nipple all day long. Genuinely, sincerely, truly painful. Hadn’t factored in how cold it’d be in the chilly shadows. My nips react to cold by getting hard and pointy (as nipples will) and, what with all the saddle-bounce, they were continually chaffing against fabric. The one nipple may have taken the brunt because of the stiff notebook in my right pocket. Which I removed but apparently too late to make a difference. So today, the tenderness slowly increased to where it felt like that sensitive bit of utterly useless flesh was in the grip of a pair of vice-grips. The pain usually stops after I warm up but the soreness can persist for a day or two. The only relief was manually pressing down on it with my fingers to keep it from rubbing. ◦◦◦◦◦  Started out a normal summer morning but right after leaving the wind came up and it turned downright cold. And was cold all day. After awhile, had to put on my duster—only extra clothing I had—and for some hours I rode with my left hand down my shirt pressing on that raging nip. Finally got this brilliant idea and put a piece of cloth athletic tape (I carry a roll in my ten-essentials bag) right over it. It helped lots; didn’t have to ride with my hand down my shirt no more. This all sounds ridiculous, I know, but it was borderline excruciating—way beyond mere irritation. ◦◦◦◦◦ Five occupied camps at Fremont total, mostly folks I’d contacted yesterday ‘cept one party of four. Talked with them all. ◦◦◦◦◦ Bart’s basecamp occupied by a big extended family group I’d met on their way in. When I spoke to Gordon [one of the packers] yesterday he told me that the group leader, an older man, was “really nice but totally clueless.” After talking awhile and drinking a mug of the weakest coffee (looked like tea when the lady poured it) he got out his map and started in. “We were thinking of climbing Tower Peak tomorrow. I guess the best way would be to go back down to the river, walk up to where you live and then on to Tower Lake?” He was more just telling me their plan, not seeking advice. No ice axes but they had trekking poles. Told them there was still a lot of snow up high. “Well, we could go over to…what’s it called?…Mary Lake? There’d be less snow on that side.” I whoa-ed him and said, “No, no—you don’t wanna cross the crest and drop all the way down to Mary. It’s eight and a half miles from here just to Tower Lake. You’re looking at, uh…seventeen miles of hiking, not counting the climbing part. Maybe you should think about something a bit closer.” Gordon was right. This fella’s a long-time mountaineer from the sound of it but apparently not so hot with his map-reading skills. ◦◦◦◦◦ Next camp: two young ladies who were obviously fascinated by ranger-types. Didn’t even ask my horse’s name! Last camp I visited was occupied by two young couples. Currently three firepits in this site. One was full of trash, obviously not theirs. Scattered paper and plastic bits and burned foil all around. One fella sez, as I start filling my sack, “We were gonna take all that out,” and he helped pick stuff up. They were just then packing up camp and moving on. One poor girl was putting tape on some full-on-raw heel blisters. Bad ones…way beyond help. Right before leaving, I asked to see their permit. The guy who’d helped with the trash got that blank look on his face (oh, I know it so well!) and says—wait for it!—“Uhhh…permit?” He claimed to have no idea, offering the lame excuse: “My book said we didn’t need a permit.” He’d never gotten one before…didn’t know he needed to. Liar liar liar! Asked him, thinking surely he’d met a ranger somewhere during his travels, “Where do you usually backpack?” … “Oh, uh, mostly here. And Cinko Lake. My dad used to bring me.” At this point I saw crimson. “Wait a minute! You’ve been coming here for years?! Do you hear what you’re saying?! That you’ve never once bothered to read my ‘ranger sign’? Or the sign in the parking lot saying you need a permit and the one right at the trailhead? Oh, and that big one by the highway that says ‘Wilderness permits required’? So, what, you just don’t bother to read signs?!?” … Eyes downcast, hangdog expression: “Uh, no, generally I don’t.” So I read this goober the riot act and reduced him to a sweaty, cringing mass of guilt. Really lit into him while the others watched. Brought up the concept of personal responsibility as a feature of adulthood. Even trotted out my old standby line, “Try telling the Highway Patrolman, ‘I didn’t see any speed-limit signs, officer!” By this time he’d visibly withered. Fetched him a copy of “The Rules” from my saddlebags and told them all to read it. Phew! I was pretty riled up. ◦◦◦◦◦ Still all gusty, chill much enhanced by wind. Finally put on my duster after leaving the lake and rode along with my hand down the front. (Someone spying me through the trees would’ve been mystified….) ◦◦◦◦◦ AS USUAL I seem to have made the wrong call by patrolling the higher areas on day #2. Pressed on to Chain and Long Lakes; saw no one. PCT to Cinko Lake: no one. At Cinko, one unoccupied camp. Jogged over to the West Fork (Emigrant Pass junction signs still down, Tim!) and back to Cinko. Nobody about. ◦◦◦◦◦ Headed home via Cascade Creek thinking I’d meet people coming up but…no one. Stopped to explore a little tarn (properly speaking, a “kettle”) a third of a mile from the Harriet Lake junction that I’ve ridden past a hundred times and looked down upon with mild interest. But today, noticed lovely glacier-carved outcrops at its west end and decided to check ‘em out after a quick initial patrol of the pond’s shoreline. Discovered that this typical Piute Country kettle pond extended a good 150 yards southwards through a dramatic, narrow cleft. What had appeared from the trail to be a shallow pond a hundred feet across and maybe three feet deep proved to be an L-shaped body of considerably larger proportions and depth with striking character: a bona fide Secret Place. The “cleft” was scarcely twenty feet across but it took a while to make it all the way around the shore. Fine flat slabs at the back and bumbling creeklet spilling through gaps and cracks, keeping the thing brimful. No sign of anyone having ever camped here. This wonderful discovery reinforces my long-held notion that Piute country is full of surprises! and that I need to get out and see as much of it as possible before I’m gone. Don’t have much time to lose. ◦◦◦◦◦ Spoke with a very pleasant family I met yesterday. When I came back from my exploration, found them getting acquainted with Redtop. Two adorable girls, about ten and twelve…a fiddle-fit, cheerful mom & dad. Both girls: clothes filthy, bright eyed, stoked, completely game. Everybody at ease and in the mountain groove. Had a real nice talk and showed them the wonderful Stonehenge rocks nearby.

 

            → 8 visitors                       → 1 firepit                  → 3 lbs trash  

         → 100 lbs rock                    → 5 trees                        → 19 miles

 

 

            ©2021 Tim Forsell             17 Dec 2021                   

Saturday, September 11, 2021

Piute Log...My 9/11 Was 9/13

I was in the wilderness when the World Trade Center towers fell and the whole world changed. My supervisor, Margaret (“Greta”) came up to Piute and was staying with me at the time. No one thought to call us over my Forest Service radio with the bleak news. Lucky us: we were granted two more days of blissful innocence. On September 12, with the entire country reeling, Margaret and I spent our day wandering around in a kind of paradise. The following morning we finally got word by way of two backpackers.

 

9 Sep (Sun)      Back to Piute. Greta riding in with me to stay all week—she’ll be using this new-fangled de-vice to log trails. ◦◦◦◦◦ A most pleasant ride in; me leading our two packhorses, Greta reading her GPS unit. (It’s official: 2.3 miles to Roosevelt Lake from the pack station.) Met a neat lady, Nancy somebody—a park naturalist in Yosemite half the year and Death Valley the other half. She asked a bunch of pointed nature questions and got answers. ◦◦◦◦◦ To Piute at 6:00; both of us plenty tired. So, quicky burritos for supper and early to bed with book. Shitbird [my Abyssinian cat] no came home tonight. 

 

10 Sep (Mon)      Greta took off on her long ride soon after sun hit the cabin. Worked on my plant list and caught up with paperwork. Shitbird finally showed up, very happy to see me. I’d sure love to know what kind of adventures he has when he disappears like this. ◦◦◦◦◦ Yesterday, on the ride in, passed a live aspen [fallen] across the trail just north of Hidden Lake junction. It came down some time last week. I passed the thing going out the other day and promptly forgot all about it so had to ride down and take care of bidness. Took about twenty minutes to clear it off the trail using my little cruise axe. ◦◦◦◦◦ Rode up to Fremont Lake and visited a group in Bart’s basecamp. Then headed for Chain o’ Lakes to grab the shovel I had stashed there. Cleaned waterbreaks and tossed rocks. For some reason, radio on the fritz. ◦◦◦◦◦ Oh—another weird synchronicity, droll variety. Yesterday when I went to the office, took my brass FS badge in hoping to exchange it. These newer ones have a slightly different clasp—the needle is too long so its tip actually sticks out a little beyond the latch. Now, I carry my watch in that pocket. So I’m continually lifting the pocket-flap with the badge attached to fish around for my watch and the tip of that slightly protruding needle jabs me. Ow! Dammit! So yesterday morning in the office with Greta I was ragging about the poor design—typical pointless, self-indulgent Tim-rant. (She had no old-model replacement, alas.) Well, in Bart’s camp I started talking to one of the clients and right off he points at my chest saying, completely out of the blue, “A friend of mine makes your badges. He has a contract with the Forest Service.”—“Oh, reallly,” sez I. “Well, would you please tell your friend that Tim-the-ranger has a complaint.” And then told him the deal. Said he’d pass it on. Voilá! Near-instant gratification! Not that anything will come of it. ◦◦◦◦◦ Got to the cabin at 7:00. Greta just back herself. She’d had a wreck an hour before, riding Tom on the PCT cutoff between the West Fork and Cascade Creek. She “wasn’t paying attention” (her words), probably writing numbers in her notebook, when Tom came up on that horrible-for-horses, angled slab. That thing’s so dangerous. His shoes skated off and down he went. Greta got pitched off, injuring an elbow and bruising her triceps. Broke the digital camera, too. Said she was okay but moving pretty stiffly. Could’ve been a lot worse. 

 

With thousands dead and much of the country glued in front of their TVs, horrified and stricken but unable to look away, this is how I spent the day of infamy:

 

11 Sep (Tue)      Up at dawn. Strangely overcast and stormish-looking. Greta left early with her yellow electronic device, a little plastic box that can tell her exactly where she is on planet Earth—within a few yards. She’s been tasked with gathering data that will be used to lay out all our trails on some futuristic map that no one will ever look at. Necessary, I suppose, but all pretty abstract for us 19th century ranger-types. ◦◦◦◦◦ Washed our dishes after Greta left then set out afoot for Long Lakes to carry on with trailwork. Took off cross-country from just past the river crossing, up a not-obvious gulley, crossed the Long Lakes trail, and continued on to Butts Lake via my secret cut-off. (A shorter—and much funner!—commute.) It was all overcast by this time and started to rain, hard enough that I donned my Gore-Tex coat. Got sprinkled on for a solid hour, most pleasant. Fine smells burst forth and I felt very happy to be drifting about unseen through the forest. Just enough precip for romance, not enough for discomfort. ◦◦◦◦◦ Retrieved my shovel and worked the “new” Walker Meadows trail. Dug many drainage dips and tossed many a stone. In Walker Meadows proper, demarcated the new piece of trail where it crosses the West Fork; the flood a few years back “rearranged” things thereabouts so I relocated the sign nearer the present ford. (Shoulda done this a long time ago.) Cows had been in there; sad to see all the fresh pies. ◦◦◦◦◦ Home by 6:00. Greta didn’t arrive ‘til almost dark. I was actually getting kinda worried; she wasn’t responding to my calls—ironically, her radio was conked out as was mine (which hadn’t worked all day). [These, our “hand-held” field radios; I’d been calling her on the more powerful cabin radio.] But she got home just at dark. Ate leftovers and to bed shortly thereafter.

 

As this day dawned, not just Americans but nearly every person on the planet age seven and up knew that their world was changed forever…that things would never be the same. Untold numbers of Americans were grieving for lost friends and family; the rest numb with shock and a whole slew of bitter emotions. Meanwhile, two friends—two lucky souls—got to spend their final hours of innocence, strolling through an earthly paradise. This was a John Muir-glorious day for which I’ll be forever grateful.

 

12 Sep (Wed)      OFF. Made pancakes. Greta was ready for a day off herself so we decided to visit Rainbow Canyon. She didn’t know about Chockstone Falls (gotta fix that!) so we took Tower Canyon trail to the stream crossing and contoured cross-country to one of our finest local natural wonders. In no hurry, we followed the creek, taking in the beauty. Never seen Rainbow Creek with so many bones poking out [e.g., exposed rocks in the streambed due to low flow] but it made for some charming low-water waterfalls. ◦◦◦◦◦ Once in the meadows we just meandered without aim. Ambled aimlessly. Visited The Crack and the fine stretch beyond. ◦◦◦◦◦ Greta was keen when I suggested starting homeward by contouring west and visiting hidden corridors. We ended up taking a route I’ve somehow missed after all these years—following a permanent streamlet that drains the tiny basin below Peak 10,654. Turned out to be an absolutely exquisite passage: cascading brook that flows through a long, perfectly straight channel ‘twixt vertical walls—a major joint system. Not that the run is so very narrow, but some sections of dead vertical cliffs along this mini-gorge are among the tallest I’ve seen (up to maybe 90 feet) with water flowing right against their bases in places. This led to a gorgeous pocket meadow cut by little twisty-turny brook with stunningly white boulders poking out of thick turf. Couple of sweet little waterfalls nearby. Altogether a most tastefully arranged hunk of terrestrial heaven with fine views…craggy peaks all ‘round. ◦◦◦◦◦ Strode home, visiting the lower reaches of the corridor we missed on our earlier contour. Once back in Rainbow Meadows we took the route that crosses back over into Tower Canyon. Told Greta about the time I ran into Jeff [fellow FS employee] and his brother at the tarn near the jump-off, years ago—a ridiculously improbable place to cross paths. (They were, in fact, “lost” at the time.) ◦◦◦◦◦ Back home 6-ish, glad-weary. Two men had set up tiny tents in the meadow just below the cabin (maybe 25 yards from the porch). Greta: “Wanna go talk to ‘em?”—“Nah. They’ll be moving on…we’ll see ‘em tomorrow morning. Kinda weird place to spend the night, though.” [Meadow camps can be both cold and damp; seasoned backpackers generally set up somewhat above their edges.] Neither of us up for much more than food and bed. It was strange hearing voices so close.                  

 

13 Sep (Thu)      29° on the porch…coldest morning this summer, prob’ly. Major frostage on the meadow. ◦◦◦◦◦  A great day ahead! Something we get to do once a year (or less): take a long ride out into the country; show my boss/friend a thing or three. Opted to skip lengthy breakfast in favor of an early start. The two fellas below rose early then quickly got back in their sacks ‘til the sun came up. It had to have been at least 5° colder, just that little distance away. Had Greta not been here I would’ve taken pity and invited them for coffee. ◦◦◦◦◦ We got off by 9:00. Rode right past the two backpackers, just then spreading their gear out to dry in the sun. Hadn’t even spoken yet but we greeted them (me walking over) and fell into easy converse. Both, mid-40s, jolly and in high spirits. Steve, old ski bum, is head plumber and electrician at Squaw Valley. Mark roasts gourmet coffee beans in Reno; sells wholesale—a small business named “Laughing Cat.” (“Coffee Co.” or “Bean Roasters”…or what, I dunno.) The four of us chatted for a few minutes, laughs, enjoying some quality gab. But it was time to press on so I initiated the disengagement process. Mark asks, “Have you two heard the news?” We return blank looks, shrug. “What news?” — “You don’t know!?” And Mark launches into this fantastic tale: “An airliner crashed into the World Trade Center! A few minutes later another jet crashes into the other tower! In an hour both buildings collapsed!!” I gawked at him, slack-jawed. “And then, another jet crashed into the Pentagon!!” Then I finally got it: We’ve…been…had. Broke into a big grin—got us! Got us good! Turning to Greta, she has this look of pure horror on her face the likes of which I have never seen. This character was a pro, a real joker, and he’d nailed us. I’m pretty slow to catch on as a rule but was surprised Greta’d gone so long, too. I laughed, “Greta, c’mon! This guy’s pulling our leg!” Mark jumped in, “No! I’m serious!” His face told me it was all true and I felt this cold numbness spread through my whole being, the strangest sensation. Greta burst into tears, turned, and walked off. ◦◦◦◦◦ And that’s how we heard, almost two days to the hour after it’d taken place. So we got to be happy and anxiety-free for two whole days longer than almost all our fellow citizens. When people live through great events they remember, for the rest of their days, exactly where they were and how they heard and how they felt. Minute, trivial details. Me: I’ll not forget these moments at the meadow’s edge. Or how the news was brought, improbably, on a sunny Sierra morning by a man with the moniker, “Laughing Cat.” ◦◦◦◦◦ We talked more, my brain spinning with all the implications, in a fog. Mark and Steve left on this trip right after it all went down (trip already planned and on schedule) thinking they might as well head for the hills rather than stay in town, wallowing and reeling with the rest of the nation. ◦◦◦◦◦ Finally, day completely shattered, Greta and I broke away and continued our ride. Dead silence. Just a ways past the front gate I stopped and turned in the saddle. “You wanna keep going?” Greta started crying again, said she didn’t know what she wanted except to get to a phone. (Her family lives in New Jersey and I imagine she has friends in the city.) So we headed back and she packed hastily and was gone. ◦◦◦◦◦ Of course, I was flat out flat-out. Stunned, in a very literal sense. Two saddled horses were standing at the rail, ready to go, and I knew that staying home meant staring off into space all day, sick inside. ◦◦◦◦◦ So, instead: rode up Cascade Creek, retrieved my shovel once more. Rocked and cleaned waterbreaks to Harriet Lake. Walked back to the horses and rode home. Went out back to cut some limbwood for the stove. (Running low.) I hacked and flung and chopped and cussed, clearly in some sort of existential rage, taking it out on myself. In short order I’d scraped my hide in arm and leg, punctured and bleeding from several minor wounds. Took a river bath, which soothed a bit. This, a day of woe. Went to bed without supper and my mind sped off, filled with images. I made movies in my head: saw through the eyes of some random guy in a suit looking up from his desk to see, out the window, a huge jet headed straight for him. Just watching it come.

 

I enjoy writing about all the curious synchronicities that befall me…the highly improbable, serendipitous meetings in obscure places—one of my favorite topics. But I make no claims as to their significance, no explanation for why I’m so frequently visited by these enigmatic events, and feel no need to try. I do seem to get more than my share. So, to finish off this account, I’ll tell the tale of a five-star CLASSIC  synchronicity. A real doozy. ◦◦◦◦◦ The following season (2002, fifteenth summer at Piute Meadows) I decided to spend 11 September out doing trailwork to keep my mind off the grim anniversary, glad to not be down in the flatlands watching endless replays of those horrific scenes, wallowing in the media blitz like millions of my fellow Americans. So I packed up tools, saddled the horses, and rode the few miles to what we call “Harriet Hill,” the steep grade beside Cascade Creek leading up toward Harriet Lake. A gigantic red fir snag had recently fallen—not across, but straight down the trail. It had to go. A terrible job. But after sizing it up I realized that a reasonable alternative was rerouting the trail. So, in lieu of carving this beast into movable sections with my 4-foot crosscut saw (use of chainsaws not allowed in capital-W  Wilderness), I just cut off all its limbs, removed a few saplings and grubbed out a new path off to the side. This entailed several hours of hard labor. And, as usual, nobody came by to catch me at the exemplary rangerly activities of chopping and sawing and hacking with hand tools.◦◦◦◦◦ But! I heard backpackers approaching, coming down the hill, and stopped working to greet them. The forest was dense and I saw no one until a man appeared from behind a big tree somewhat above me. I couldn’t see his companions yet but this one, seeing me, turned and spoke to those behind him. Heard him say, “I think there’s a friend of yours here!” Just then, Mark and Steve stepped into view. “OH MY GOD!”—“I CAN’T BELIEVE THIS!” Here were the two messengers from last year who’d brought the ghastly news…back, on the first anniversary of the big event. (Not mine…the actual anniversary.) ◦◦◦◦◦ They’d gone on a backpack—again, to escape the media frenzy—and brought along a like-minded friend. It turned out that the three were headed for the northern wilds of Yosemite but, completely unannounced, Mark’s leg started hurting, bad. He had no idea what was going on but the leg was painful enough that they all decided it was better to head back toward the trailhead, not deeper into the wilderness. So if it weren’t for this freaky thing with Mark’s leg, we’d not have run into each other. Steve and Mark had told many friends about the incident with me and Margaret last year—a pretty good yarn. Of course, all of us were flabbersmacked. It so happened that these three were the only people I saw that day. And only later did I realize that, the day of our first meeting, I’d worked this same stretch of trail. ◦◦◦◦◦ Almost three weeks later my brother came up for a visit. He brought me a reprint of the New York Times 9/11 edition. I stayed up almost all night reading it from cover to cover, staring at the photos. Then I went down to my folks’ in Ventura for Thanksgiving and finally got to see replays of the planes crashing into the towers, the towers collapsing. I’d guess that I was one of the few people in the U.S. who hadn’t seen the unforgettable, riveting footage by that late date.

                                                

        ©2014 Tim Forsell       13 Apr 2014, 11 Nov 2019, 10 Sep 2021

 

Wednesday, September 1, 2021

Piute. Log...Not a Villain, After All. 1994

 28 Jul (Thu)     Up at 6:00. Yesterday my horses had been locked in the front pasture but some feebo left the back gate down so everybody escaped. Naturally, they were at the far end of the meadow when I went out to catch. I knew the Armstrong party had been packed in to Howard Black’s camp yesterday so, after snagging him, jumped up on Red bare-back and rode over to say hello. Gene Armstrong runs the horseshoeing program at Cal Poly San Luis Obispo. A fine person, as is his wife, Gail. Both of them loaded with charm and charisma. This trip a family getaway. Had a lovely visit and they gave me a home-grown cantaloupe! What a treat! ◦◦◦◦◦  Finally got underway. Rode over Kirkwood Pass and down as far as Buckeye Forks. Poked my head into the old snow survey cabin and, on a whim, checked out the various names penciled on the walls and ceiling. Not that many people inscribe their names in this cabin (many, local deer hunters) compared to others I’ve been in; often several years pass between additions. I had to blink when I saw a fresh-looking entry: 28 July 1994. Why, that’s tomorrow! Checked my watch which told me that today was indeed the twenty-eighth, not the twenty-seventh. Musta just missed whoever it was. Pretty strange. Strange, that I would pick today to check the inscriptions. The next most-recent entry I saw was from ’92. ◦◦◦◦◦ Backtracked upcanyon. Trail’s in great shape, not much rocking to be done and waterbreaks still working fine. Branched off on the faint old path to Beartrap Lake. It had been thoroughly ducked and I took considerable pains to knock ‘em all down. Scores of little cairns and single stones placed on boulders to mark the way on a faint but obvious track. As soon as I angled back into the drainage it also became obvious that the sheep had already grazed illegally down into here (again). They’re not supposed to go beyond the divide! Looked to have been about a week ago. Braided paths and hoof prints partially obscured by recent rain but the smell of sheep prominent. We (the FS, that is…) can’t seem to keep ‘em outa here. Year after year they trespass. This had me ticked off, plus I was irritated by having to knock down all those blankety-blank ducks. The sheep had been bedded down for at least a couple of nights right on the divide, a lovely alpiney place that is OFFICIALLY CLOSED to sheep grazing. Officially, but it seems, not actually. A real shame…. ◦◦◦◦◦ Rode on down toward Beartrap lake and started hearing baaa-ing. Aha! Got down to the first meadow and picked my way through a tangle of ’86 avalanche debris ‘til I ran into the band. And there was the herder, standing on a rock not fifty yards away. He’d watched me sitting there on my horse looking at the sheep and waved when we locked eyes. (Herders generally disappear before I even see them.) So I rode over to greet the fella, whose name I already knew. Looked to be in his early thirties. Up until we actually met, this person was a treacherous villain who deserved immediate deportation. But as soon as we shook hands my natural sense of empathy kicked in and I saw instead a kindly Peruvian shepherd—a gentle soul who makes maybe $600 a month, who spends weeks and weeks in the backcountry without respite so that he can send precious American dollars back home to his family living in a poverty stricken third-world country. We sussed each other out, grinning like fools. He seemed not at all intimidated, despite the uniform. It was pretty obvious he had no idea he was doing anything illegal. He spoke hardly any English and me, no Spanish. After introducing myself I said, “Edgar?” He was visibly taken aback by my knowing his name but then laughed shyly when I mimed carving on trees by writing in the air with a fingertip. Our “conversation” was pretty much over and when the dead air came we both grinned and shrugged. I turned to go and said, “Ciao!” and he laughed once more, a nice laugh. My new acquaintance held a walkman radio in his hand, his only form of entertainment back here if you don’t count eating (and we’ll just skip the sheep jokes). I’ve wondered how much these guys care about all the beauty that surrounds them, what effect it has on their psyches. I marvel at the fortitude—these herders spend weeks and weeks in forced solitude, alone with their flocks, alone with their thoughts. Thoughts of home and loved ones and friends, thousands of miles away. I’m under the impression that they don’t fish. At least they have the dog for company. That must be huge. So: Edgar Leon from Tinoco, Peru (carved on dozens of aspens hereabouts, spanning some years) was so cheerful and of such kindly demeanor that I instantly forgave him his trespasses and would’ve offered him some food if I’d had any. Wondered if by some miracle Edgar‘s able to get a Spanish-speaking station on his little radio or if he’s forced to listen to County and Western music all day with all the hideous, grating ads. ◦◦◦◦◦ Rode down Long Canyon (aptly named—it goes and goes and goes) and the brutally steep switchbacks had my knees aching. At home, worked on this log on the porch ‘til dark (fine sunset) and had a late bath.

             →  4 visitors        → 4 lbs trash        → duck eradication        → 19½ miles 

 

 

        ©2021 Tim Forsell               28 Aug 2021                    

Thursday, August 19, 2021

Piute Log...Finally Met Me a Grosso 1994

 29 Jul (Fri)     Not too motivated the last coupla days. This funky sinus infection lingers on and I feel sapped. My natural inclination would be to spend the day at the cabin, taking it easy. As it was, I “futzed around” (Doc Grishaw-ism), shuffled papers, wrote a bit herein, and cooked up some grub for trail lunch leftovers. Finally headed off to work at the ridiculous hour of noon—what climbers call a “California alpine-start.” [An alpine start is to leave for a climb well before dawn.] Rode as far as Bamboo Flats, halfway out, hoping to meet lots of visitors just setting off. Met one bunch in Lower Piute that turned out to be Jones Gulch YMCA. We’d crossed paths last summer and then, a month ago, I ran into the same trip leaders from last year out on recon. Like with old friends, jumped off Red and plopped myself down and chatted up Dave & Jo & Mike who kindly gave me some of their lunch. Meanwhile, their eleven charges were over on a bend of the river swimming. At one point this nubile maiden, adorable creature probably sixteen, strolled over wearing an obscene thong bikini and asked if she could pet my horse. It was a hard thing to just ignore but I made a good effort. ◦◦◦◦◦ Bit later, ran into John Silva and party, out on a dayride. John, a fine specimen of Western-style manhood, has been coming back here for years. Today’s jaunt with friends and family including one Ernie Grosso—one of the “Grosso brothers” whose names I’ve seen carved on many an aspen. D. Grosso, C. Grosso, and E. Grosso; some of the carvings from way back. Years ago I asked Bart about these mysterious Grosso characters whose names you see in practically every aspen grove in the region. Old Basque family, sheepmen all—no surprise there. Bart said that a couple were still around. Never expected to actually meet me a real-live Grosso! Ernie proved to be a soft-spoken and gracious man, maybe seventy-five, who’s been coming into this country for going on half a century. I fell in behind the group—on their way out, he in the rear—so got to ask him a few questions while breathing dust raised by eight horses. Ernie was born and raised in Smith Valley, north of Bridgeport. His father ended up there after emigrating from the old country in 1900. One of the brothers still lives in the original ranch house in Smith. Ernie worked with sheep all his life. It’s probably a Basque thing, I don’t know, but he graciously invited this stranger to visit him at his home, any time. “I live right behind the post office.” We talked about the Summers [local ranch family] and he asked why they didn’t have their cattle grazing up here this year. I tried to explain that the Summers were in the process of doing a land swap with the Forest Service. We were just then riding past the Lily Pond and Ernie pointed to the tall green grass and said, “Look at this good feed! All going to waste!” I’ve heard that tired old line a few times now but kept my thoughts to myself, of course. Instead, told him about how there was so much recreational use back here nowadays…the backpackers didn’t like camping with the cows, lots of complaints about the dust and flies and concerns about water quality. And that they didn’t like horses, either. He snorted, made some derisive comments. Guess I was going out of my way trying to sound like I was on his side. Oh my, the range of perspectives! And so polarized! Couldn’t argue with him even if I’d wanted to. His views are as valid as any diehard Sierra Clubber’s in that neither side sees the situation with anything resembling clarity. Fact is, sheep and sheepherders were here almost a hundred years before backpacking was invented—living hard, working hard to feed their families, not for leisure-time “recreation.” And that has real meaning—a thing that your average livestock-hating REI-clad backpacker just doesn’t get. Personally, I don’t believe that in the late 20th century livestock have any business grazing these highcountry meadows. It’s a holdover from times past and things have changed in so many ways. Too many people, too many pressures, too many conflicting interests. But Ernie and his family made their livelihoods running sheep in these mountains, year after year for decades, so I can sympathize with that perspective. Especially because I took an instant liking to this ol’ geezer. ◦◦◦◦◦ Down to Bamboo Flats then turned right around and rode to Hidden Lake. Not a soul. Then headed for Fremont. In the Roughs, ran into an incredibly gorgeous woman, a bit older than me, who’d day-hiked to Fremont to fish. I was flat-out stupidified by this jaw-dropping beauty. (Anyone who reads this will hopefully overlook this kinda talk…clearly, I been alone too long.) She was camped near the pack station with a big family gathering, had read my sign and knew I was the guy who lived at the cabin. She (never asked her name, sigh) had actually spent a couple nights there a few years back on some sort of late-season volunteer project after I was gone. No idea what that was about. So we chatted at length, admiring each other for different reasons. Tried not to stare and hated leaving her behind. Woe! Is! Me! ◦◦◦◦◦ Up to the lake. Incredibly, only two people there—a couple in their fifties. On a Friday evening in July! Can’t figure it out! Where is everybody?! These two were sitting on cushy folding chairs on the shore reading thick books. From Berkeley; the husband, a professor at U.C. San Fran. They were classic Berkeley Hills backpackers. Just this unique aura about them—urbane, educated, moneyed. With a comfortable-in-the-woods way about them after decades of Sierra sojourns. And, surprise!, complete opposites of the likes of Ernie Grosso: hate the heavy stock use, opposed to grazing in Wilderness, loathe the dusty beat loose stone trails. But they loved having that big fish-full lake to themselves. Talked for a good half hour, answering all their intelligent queries. A real pleasure to spend quality time with these sorts but not quite as satisfying as meeting old-time locals who have a deep-seated connection with the land—no matter how ignorant they are of modern ecological concerns. There’s room for us all, thank goodness, even madmen like yours truly. Today, I saw a real hodgepodge of Wilderness aficionados. Lovin’ it, all of us. ◦◦◦◦◦ 

    → 32 visitors      → 1 lb trash       → rocks       → 16½ miles       → merry meetings

 

      ©2021 Tim Forsell           26 Jul 2021

Piute Log...Night Riding 2000

 26 Aug (Sat)     ◦◦◦◦◦ Headed down canyon on Woody. Didn’t get far before running into Nelson Burris with two companions (one, a pasty-white guy from Ireland who assured me he was slathered with SPF-40). Nelson had to remind me of his name but gushed when I said, “Hey, I was just thinking about you the other day! Figured we’d be meeting up again before long.” Hadn’t seen him for years but, in days past, used to bump into each other almost every summer. Nelson loves it up here—one of those people who think of Piute Meadows country as a very special place. Had a nice visit aside from Nelson having apparently elevated me to mythical eminence. I “get” why backcountry rangers find themselves turned into symbolic figures representing various things in flatlanders’ hearts and minds. So I just stood there squirming as he sang my praises. (It’s flat-out awkward hearing a person talk about you that way—Who, me??—as you stand there in your regular-Joe skin.) The Irish fella was having a fantastic trip—permanent grin, couldn’t get over the weather. ◦◦◦◦◦ Today, had one of those strange, semi-psychic events that befall me from time to time. Backstory: about a week ago, riding back to the cabin at day’s end. Out of the blue, Nelson Burris popped into my head. Odd, because he’s not someone I ever have call to think about. Couldn’t remember his name and tried (unsuccessfully) to dredge it up by going through the alphabet. A…B…C…D…. Mmm, did it start with ‘B’? followed by the thought, Been a long time…probably see him again before too long. So, right after leaving the three: maybe a hundred yards farther down the trail, suddenly realized with a shock that I was just then passing the exact spot where I’d thought of Nelson the other day, trying to recall his name—very close to where we met in the flesh, as it turned out. Weird, hunh? But, like I say, things like this happen to me on occasion. I feel no need to try and find explanations—the world is one big mystery. ◦◦◦◦◦ Unattended campfire at Fremont Meadows camp, smoldering away. Aarghh!! No one about. ◦◦◦◦◦  Carried on as far as Roosevelt Lake. (Took out a few small trees that needed to go.) Two ospreys there circling and chirping. Greeted the fans and picked up fresh trash leavings. Thence to Fremont Lake for more of the same. Back down to the river and headed for the barn. Got back before 6:00, first time home this early in days. Had a bath with sun still on the gravel bar—nice for a change. ◦◦◦◦◦ Frying up a brace of burritos when there was a soft, hesitant knock on the door. It was about 9:00, fully dark, so this could only be bad news. It was. Two teenage boys from Bart’s Walker Meadows camp reporting a missing 11-year-old girl. Invited the two in, sat ‘em down, and turned off the burner under my dinner. “Well, let’s hear the story.” ◦◦◦◦◦ Group of eight at basecamp along with Bart and East Coast Chuck. My two informants, Joshua and Jason, are the boyfriends of two girls. Along with them there’s the 11-year-old sister plus two mothers and one other person. Earlier today, the whole bunch hiked to Cinko Lake via the West Fork trail. On the way back they splintered off into several groups. Alexi left the too-slow moms behind and for a while hiked with one of the boys but apparently couldn’t keep up and fell behind. Last seen near the PCT junction at around 5:30. Everybody went out searching as soon as the girl was missed. Bart sent Joshua and Jason to alert the ranger. ◦◦◦◦◦ Sent the two back to camp with my flashlight. Inhaled my burritos, thinking and making plans whilst (barely) chewing. Tried to raise somebody on the radio and finally got hold of Greta. Was hoping to avoid getting Mono County involved (with luck, the girl was back in camp already) but Greta alerted them right off. I caught up Woody and headed out. Had a lovely ride, actually, with brilliant starlight and a willing horse who knew his way. In the forest it was quite dark and I just stayed in balance with eyes wide, fully alert. Amazed, yet again, to see just how well I know these trails. There are hangers and scalp-snaggers on the Long Lakes trail—dangling branches that’ll take your hat off or scratch your face up if you’re not paying attention; not a serious issue but potentially injurious for the unaware. I was ready for them all. Somehow my body knew, from the sequence of faint tree trunk shadows or twists and turns in the trail or whatever. Something below conscious knowledge, that’s for sure. This is just the sort of thing that, in my mind, affirms that we’re aware of many things on a subliminal level, always have our feelers out. Clearly, in situations like this, perceptive equipment is cranked up to full capacity. That’s why this ride was so enjoyable, even knowing I might have an all-nighter ahead with all the uncertainties. Love that feeling of being fully alive and attuned. Since quitting climbing regularly, I don’t get so firing-on-all-cylinders keyed-up often enough and miss it. ◦◦◦◦◦ Got to basecamp at 11:00 or so. Even before arriving I knew that everything was okay. Up ahead, lanterns were lit and fire blazing. All seemed calm; people milling about, talking in low voices but without hint of worry in their tones. Phew. ◦◦◦◦◦ Turns out Alexi got back to camp minutes after the boyfriends left. Somehow she got turned around and, though I’m unclear on this point, it sounds like she took the PCT south. Some backpacker (a prison guard, of all things) who’d hiked in all the way from Leavitt Lake found her and led the lost lamb back to her by-then frantic mother. Musta been quite the tizzy in basecamp for a while there. ◦◦◦◦◦ Called Greta pronto with the ol’ “Call off the show!” call then sat around the fire (Bart gone to bed) but got to have a de-brief with the various players. Mug of joe, tales retold. A most satisfying half-hour around a campfire with a bunch of tired and very relieved happy-campers. Story with a cheery ending. And, once again, I TOTALLY LUCKED OUT! My Park Service ranger friends have stories about S&Rs that didn’t turn out well at all. I feel so grateful to have been spared the disasters and tragedies…so far, at least. ◦◦◦◦◦  Finally time to head home, midnight or so. Chuck produced a bottle of Johnny Walker and administered a goodly snort to warm my ride. It did—and it was one fine ride, yessiree. Mission accomplished, “done my duty,” heading back to warm cabin and fairly soft bed. Bathed in a rare ambiance…or mood. (It’s hard to describe….) First-rate pony carrying me home through dark forest night over rocky mountain trail. Whiskey gentling my senses with warm full-body glow. Familiar stars and old-friend constellations winking on and off through gaps between trees. Felt fully engaged and satisfied and thankful. Made it down off the big hill, crossed river, and for that last 2K I gave Woody his head and let him sprint the flats. Inspired madness on both our parts. Woody wanted home and I trusted him, no question. It was dark in the thick forest bordering the river flats—couldn’t see fer shit. Just hung on and took the ride. Laughed and laughed with the darkness streaming past my face, hanging on for dear life. Pure, unadulterated, wholesome exhilaration. One of those rare occasions—“times-when-I-cannot-die,” I call them, with a freedom and abandon that are as close to immortality as most mortals are granted. Final hill, Woody walking again, breathing hard, his good hot smell rising around me. I was full to the brim…cup runneth-ing over. Sure, I was tired and sore but this was better than needed sleep by far. Home at the wee hour of 1:00, pumped-up and wide awake. Enjoyed it all ‘cept for the ten minutes following that ill-omened knock on the door.

                         →  57 visitors            → 3 trees            → 2 lbs trash     

       →  1 wb cleaned         →  much rocking           →  26½ miles          →  missing lamb, found

 

 

      Copied in the first pages of this volume of The Piute Log:

 

I find you, Lord, in all things and in all

My fellow creatures, pulsing with your life;

As a tiny seed you sleep in what is small

And in the vast you vastly yield yourself.

 

The wondrous game that power plays with things

Is to move in such submission through the world:

Groping in roots and growing thick in trunks

And in treetops like a rising from the dead.

 

                                               —Rilke 

 

 

            ©2021 Tim Forsell             24 Jul 2021